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Published: October 10th 2008
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Lugar de direcciones
Dispensing food and travel suggestions at Valle del Fuego, Cabanaconde Up at 6 and breakfast at 7 at Valle de Fuego. Edison goes to find a muleteer, an arrera, to carry our gear. Erwin serves us breakfast of scrambled eggs, bread, and porridge. Edison has stepped out to arrange for our muleteer. Mario’s 2 mules will cart our gear to Chachas. Meanwhile, Erwin provides Colca canyan trek directions to a couple east-coasters (U.S.). They are taking a semester off.
Edison heads us northwest through Cabanaconde’s square and a very brisk pace. This may be a test to make sure I’m fit for what’s to come. The day is clear, sunny, and we shed our jackets. After 30 minutes of slight uphill, we begin a morning of descent. Most of the time we follow a rocky footpath that intersects a vehicle path that has several switch backs as it descends some 1,000 feet over 5 miles to the Colca River. Edison frequently looks back to where we’ve come or up to the Canyon rim looking for bandits, condors, and muleteers.
By 11 a.m. we’re at river level and walking the rock road until we reach a bridge, a suspension bridge for animals and people. We hear a motor noise, and
Cabanaconde Depart
Northwest through and exiting the square this turns out to be a cement mixing machine. A new bridge is under construction, one for vehicles, and this will join Cabanaconde with Choco village, our days destination.
Here we have lunch, but not until Mario and the two mules arrive with our provisions. A pleasant lunch of mushroom soup, rice, and cheese sandwiches.
In an hour we are off and crossing the swinging bridge. The Colca river is green, like malachite, and quieter at the moment. It’s flow capacity seems to be much higher, judging by the placement of pebbles and large boulders high up the embankment. As we climb the path on the north side of the canyon, wonder where the road is that will carry vehicles that cross the bridge.
Through the morning hike and after lunch, Edison points out the great Condors riding thermals some 1,000 feet above, or more. The sun is bright, the sky blue. After about 500 feet of climb, the path levels out. The dirt and rock foot path, carrier locals and trekers from Cabanaconde to Choco. I spot another trail far below and opposite ours. This is the old trail to Andagua, Edison explains. It’s not much
Red blooming Shrub
Colca Canyan. Anyone know the name? used, and a little later on I spot a rock slide that appears to have interrupted the path. Our seems easier, though the step off the side would be a the end of someone.
Edison maintains a brisk cadence and keeps generally ahead of me. I ask questions on the terrain at photograph time or as we slows to check on my progress. We see terraces on the steep sides, in areas of green, and the granite rock offer the eyes a variation of reds and browns. How does this scenery appear to one who has lived all there life here? To me it is beautiful, and in its near solitude I swear I hear birds in the wind. How people live in these rugged environs amazes.
Choco is a village of some half mile by no more than 1 mile and maybe 75 houses and buildings. Life has been lived here for a long time, with more as it’s always been rather than new. Most homes may have basic electricity, but not water. After 2 hours we’d turned north off the Colca Canyon and started following the path up the Choco canyon spur. We’re back up to
10,000 feet, I’d say. We chat with a local or two as they pass by; it’s a simple Buenas dias, and then a little more, perhaps a question about the country I’m from and do I like Peru. My Spanish is making no great strides, but I’m trying it by now with less reluctance. Edison and I continue to teach each other a few words, and he provides some background on the area, though not a great deal of it.
On the way in the village, we stop to buy a few bottles of water and soda. The store is small with mostly dried goods and items that won’t spoil. It has closed, and we learn that the owner lives just behind, and she’s more than happy to open back up to sell us a few things. Edison asks about a camping location and in 10 minutes we’ve walked to the outskirts of town, crossed Choco creek to get to our camp site near the soccer pitch and the cemetery.
Supper is under the stars, as dusk is at 6, and 7 p.m. has come and gone. I’ve walked through the village, and Edison has returned from getting
Natural Quilt
Grass Patterns Over Stone, Colca food for the two mules, Vincente and Juana, to cook our meal of potatoes, soup, and beef steak. I've learned about the stickiness of a heated yerba matte leaf and its healing properties from Mario.
The stars are out in force, even with a bright crescent moon which peaks over the western mountain above Choco and sets back behind a short while later. We see the Southern Cross, the Scorpion, and much milk of the milky way. We’ve walked, in my estimate, 16 miles today. My boots are dusty.
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