A time-consuming border crossing once again! There are three border posts between Ecuador and Peru: the most popular one, on the coastal Pan-American Highway, is also widely known as "the worst border crossing in South America", with (likely exaggerated) stories of bribe-hungry immigration officials and aggressive scam artists abounding. The remaining two are within relatively easy reach (I say relatively) of Vilcabamba, our last stop in Ecuador. The crossing between the Ecuadorian town of Zumba and its Peruvian counterpart San Ignacio is the one we are aiming for, as it will lead us to the Peruvian departamentoof Amazonas and its capital, Chachapoyas. This town lies at the heart of a region of immense archaeological significance, one we are eager to explore. A pre-dawn start from Vilcabamba. A seven-hour bus takes us, over a largely unpaved road,
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