Chachapoyas and surrounds - gossip, parades and crazy but beautiful bus rides

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Hola amigos!

It’s been a while I know. What can I say, teaching has kept me very busy – that and exploring South America!

So right now I am in Puerto Lopez, a chilled fishing town on the coast of southern Ecuador, and I have to say it’s a pretty nice spot. I'm here to teach English and am surrounded by great beaches and wildlife and as many bananas as you could ever wish for. However, I only landed here two weeks ago so this blog is really about the joys of Chachapoyas and surrounds in northern Peru, where I have been for the previous three months.

Chachapoyas, or Chachas as the locals call it, is the administrative town of the Amazonas region of Peru. Many people there are employed in government administration, or work in agriculture. It’s 2,300 metres up in The Andes – in an area called the eyebrow of the jungle, as just over the mountains to the east you start to get into the jungle. Chachas is a pretty town of adobe buildings, surrounded by clouds, hills and mountains in the middle of nowhere. It has a pretty main square and tourists come in the high season mainly to use the town as a base for travelling to sites in the area, like the famous Kuelap ruins. The people are conservative, but friendly allbeit a little shy. There are a lot of mestizos there, but the indigenous farmers come to town to sell their produce in the market or queue in colourful long lines outside the bank to collect their government subsidy every month. I was there in the low season (February – April), when it rains a lot…

I put up with the rain as my main reason for coming to Chachas was to get some more English teaching experience. I worked at the International Language Centre (ILC) for the full three months. It’s a private language institute, run by the hyperactive boss Fidel, teaching English, French, Spanish and other languages depending on what teachers are there at the time. When I was there we had teachers from France, UK, USA, Denmark and Peru – hola teachers! if you’re reading. I had a wide remit from teaching advanced grammar to adults to teaching four year olds colours and animals, taking them to the toilet and stopping them from eating crayons 😊

It’s a totally different set up to the charity school that I taught at before in a poor area of Trujillo. ILC is a business and the students were usually well-off; most people in the town wouldn't be able to afford lessons. Wages average at about 700 soles per month and classes cost around 150 soles. The students were almost all great. It was the little kids that were the biggest challenge; they can be really mean to each other, and sometimes they just refuse to work... My bag was always jammed full of toys (heamoor the bear came in handy) and plan bs. The adults want to be there so you know that if you plan a lesson it will pretty much go to plan. The teenagers were some of my favourite students, they were good fun. Shy at first, but I got them acting, singing and playing games and we went out for dinner together when I left. We taught from various American English book series, so more sidewalks, candy, elevators etc. People are very influenced by the USA here, and the kids love Justin Bieber just as much as they do back home. I learnt a lot in three months as I was working all the time, either planning the lessons or giving them. I even bought a white board to have at home so that I could practice board plans – geek! I was paid a stipend of about 800 soles per month, about £200. Enough to live on but not much more.

We had some interesting times at the school. Every Friday we did karaoke with the students, but after three months of singing Wonderwall I wanted to kill myself. One of my seven year old students would come to class each day with a different inappropriate object like a kite, a radio or a dog; which I had fun removing. We did some promotions at the local schools which involved us singing Bob Marley to assemblies at 7am. I’ve been on Chachas TV to promote the school – whoo! A highlight for me was taking part in Earth Hour – the international event where people turn off their lights for an hour to highlight the impact that energy use is having on the climate. I’ve taken part in the event for many years in the UK, but it was cool to see that it had reached this Andean town which seems pretty cut off from everywhere. Our students made placards and the procession of about 300 people, including my four year old students, went round the town with a loud haler asking people to turn off their lights for the hour “vecinos, vecinos apagar la luz!”. We finished up in the town square where all the businesses turned off their lights and we were entertained by dancers and singers by candle light – a memorable evening. We also went to a teaching conference in the jungle town of Tarapoto - paid for by the American Embassy. I got some good ideas for how to teach through songs (other than Wonderwall). It was interesting to meet more Peruvian English teachers and hear about their experiences; the problem with many of them is that they don’t speak very good English. In fact many teachers in Peru have never been to secondary school – yikes. I liked Tarapoto; it was hot, but the people there are fun and there's some good nightlife. We raced in motos to the massive Anaconda disco and danced the night away.

So yes, I was in Chachas during the rainy season. It rained for probably 75 of the 90 days that I was there. It’s heavy rain, sometimes for one hour a day but usually for more and occasionally for the entire day. The roads turn into brown rivers and as the roofs are often made of corrugated iron or plastic the rain could be deafening. The weird thing is people don’t dress for the weather. They hardly ever carry umbrellas or wear a coat or wellies. They just hide under the buildings when it rains and wait for the worst to pass.

When the rain comes so do the landslides; it’s not the best time to do tours. In almost every trip that I did the driver had to stop the minivan to let road workers clear the landslides or assess whether he thought it was safe to continue driving. We had some long nervous waits and I saw some small rocks falling right by us, but luckily they weren’t followed by any bigger ones (they can come down as big as houses). In one trip the driver went a bit crazy when he saw some rocks falling, he shouted something like 'we're gonna die!' and squeeled the bus away as fast as it could go. There is real danger; there were at least two local fatal coach accidents over the three months I was there. Though at the same time the bus trips were breathtakingly beautiful, and often as good as getting to our destination.

In Chachas my landlady was called Jesus, which made me chuckle, and she charged me the bargainous rate of £45 per month for my room. I was on Ayacucho, the party road, opposite from La Reina - the best bar in town, good coffee at Karajia café, the best vegetarian restaurant ‘Vida y Salud’ and the best disco (you don’t say nightclub as it means lap dancing club) also called La Reina. You may think of South American nightclubs full of Shakira types, but not in conservative ‘ol Chachas, people often kept their coats and boots on to dance to reggaeton.

There’s a university and many schools in Chachas, which means a lot of people are living away from home and staying in rented rooms. Rented rooms often don’t come with cooking facilities (like mine) so people eat every meal out (like me). This might sound ostentatious, but you can eat out very cheaply (not like me). You can get a ‘pension’ at a particular place where they make you three meals a day at a bargain rate - about £2 per day. There isn’t all that much to do in Chachas itself so I enjoyed eating out and went to pretty much every restaurant. As a vegetarian you can eat well there. There are two vege restaurants run by Seventh Day Adventists (who are big on vegetarianism apparently). At other restaurants you can always get a vegetable tortilla with rice or Arroz a la Cubana – fried plantain, eggs and rice.

Some quirks of Chachas… it’s the quietest most conservative place that I’ve been in Peru, but there are security guards and police everywhere. There have been some uprisings from poor indigenous communities against the government in places nearby (and an assassination while I was there) so I think maybe they are there to warn people off from doing a similar thing. Another teacher did see a protest in Chachas where people were tear gassed – but it’s hard to imagine on an ordinary day. Being an administrative centre Chachas loves a parade. Most days a group (religious, funeral, military, anniversary, protest) would be marching around the square with a not very joyful band at the rear. All the bars play 80’s music. Most Sundays there’s a power cut until 3pm, but no one can explain why. Being in an isolated spot most people don’t seem too interested in the world outside Chachas, so the main hobby is gossiping… at ILC teachers are warned against creating any fodder for the rumour mill.

As I say, most tourists come to Chachas to use it as a base for exploring the surrounding area. The most popular sights are the ruins at Kuelap and Karajia and Gocta waterfall – the third highest in the world (though this is debated). There’s also Leymebamba museum where you can see mummies, Huancas (pronounced wankers, titter) canyon and Revash ruins. I went to Kuelap, Gocta, Huancas and Leymebamba.

Kuelap is the Macchu Picchu of northern Peru; it’s associated with the Chachapoyas culture, and consists of massive stone walls enclosing more than four hundred buildings. The village sits on a ridge overlooking the Utcubamba Valley, is 3,000 metres up and dates to 6AD (thanks Wikipedia). Historians think it was probably a place where villagers went when they needed to store food and to distribute it. It’s a beautiful bus ride through the valley, and really out of the way so not many tourists go, which is part of what makes it so great. It’s been partly reclaimed from nature but much of it is covered in bromeliads and vines and the views around are stunning. It was my favourite trip of the four.

There are different routes that you can take to Gocta waterfall, and you can walk or take a horse through the exotic surroundings to the 771 metre, two-drop fall. We walked about three hours, and our local guide who documents and draws the flora was very knowledgeable, we saw orchids and tarantula webs and the region’s poster bird – the colourful cock of the rock - lives there but didn't show. The area used to be under the sea and there are fossils everywhere, which is pretty cool. The day was hot, but when you get close to the waterfall is gets chilly because the water creates wind and spray. It was a tough walk back mainly uphill (and with hangover), and the older women in our group who had opted for horses were even tired. Our group consisted of two English people, a Korean lady, two French women, a German lady and about eight Peruvians. Whichever agency you book through in Chachas you will probably all go with the same tour guide, so unless you are asking for an a la carte trip it doesn’t make too much difference who you book with. Though I booked with Carlos who owns http://amazonexpedition.com.pe as he’s a good guy and big on sustainable tourism.

Leymebamba, a village two hours south east of Chachas, has a fantastic museum focusing on the sarcophagi and mummies found at the nearby Laguna de las Condores. I have to be in the right mood for museums, but I really liked this one. You can see photos of how the sarcophagi were extracted, the objects that were found with the mummies and then the piece de resistance - the guide turned on a light in a room and we saw all the mummies; children and adults all in different poses. Though about 800 years old you could see their hair, skin and facial expressions – it’s pretty creepy. It’s a small museum and one to one and a half hours is enough time to explore. To get there from the centre of Leymebamba you can either take a taxi or walk 30 minutes; we walked and the views were impressive.

Huancas canyon is beautiful, and from Chachas you can take a 20 min bus or taxi ride there or walk a couple of hours. The canyon is so huge it’s hard to take in, it doesn’t seem real. The river at the bottom and the waterfall are dwarfed. You don’t need a guide and can do various walks in the area through eucalyptus trees and strange plants.

I visited some other places that aren’t so advertised from Chachas. Rioja (famous for its hats and carnival) is in the district of San Martin. It's a jungle town with recreos – places where you can sit by lakes, visit little zoos, swim, eat and drink. I went to one called the Chu Chu Centre (means boob centre, but no boobs were on display). People go there to try out the extensive cocktail menu – like us 😊 The guy that runs the place is a proper character and everyone has their photo taken with him.

I also went to Laguna Pomacochas, a very peaceful place where nothing happens but it has a nice vibe and I can recommend the Lago Azul hotel for the comfiest bed in Peru. And I saw a hummingbird on its nest there, which was about the size of a thimble - adorable. We wanted to visit the nearby Huembo hummingbird centre, but that was closed. It’s best to call ahead to check that it will be open.

The town of La Mud was a strange experience. It’s a tiny town a couple of hours from Chachas and people visit to travel to the nearby Quiocta caves and La Pueblo de los Muertos - a walk to mausoleums 400 metres up a cliff face. Our trip was a gamble from the start; it had been raining heavily and we found that in La Mud they were putting in a pipe system under the road so there was deep mud everywhere, even right outside our hotel. That night there was a power cut but fortunately one restaurant (called something like las tijitas) was open and we had a fab meal cooked by an award winning chef and excellent host who also gave us free local firewater. We went back the next evening. A taxi bravely took us through the mud to visit the caves, which house stalactites and stalagmites that kind of glow in the dark. Peruvians can be superstitious, and the couple we shared a taxi with were dousing themselves with fragranced oils to keep away bad cave spirits. It was an aromatic ride. They were also drinking firewater to keep away the spirits – we had some just in case. We wanted to visit the Pueblo de los Muertos but no one would take us there because of the mud, so we went home!

Another trip was to Las Palmeras de Ocol; a natural palm forest with many species of palm. It’s trying to be a tourist destination, but it really is in the middle of nowhere. We had a strenuous walk through the forest, spotting orchids and butterflies along mud trails, through a waterfall and river and back. I fell asleep at lunch afterwards. It is a special place as there are no other forests in the world quite like it. If you love forests you might like to go; you will be warmly welcomed by the very fit guides who skip through the trails while you puff along behind.

Cajamarca was a four day trip for me during the Easter holidays – or Semana Santa as it’s known here. This included the craziest bus journey so far. We had been warned about the road but went anyway. It took 16 hours along a single track mountain road, through landslides, rivers in the road, and raging rivers just next to the road. We had to get out and walk along some parts as the driver thought it was unsafe. We had some bus wobbles at times, which are scary when you are up above the clouds. We were very happy when we reached Cajamarca and booked to come back through a different route.

Cajarmarca is lovely. The climate there is perfect for dairy farming and there are sheep and cows everywhere – it looks a bit like Switzerland. It’s the location for Atahualpa’s (the last Inca of Peru) demise and you can visit the place where he was captured by the Spanish army and later killed. There are plenty of museums and churches with pretty architecture and picturesque walks around the town. We also visited Granja Porcon (an artisan farm and zoo) and Cumbemayo limestone forest. I liked the latter best as it was a beautiful area to walk in on a sunny day but then Granja Porco did have spectacled bears that you could feed bananas to 😊 With it being Semana Santa there was an enactment of Jesus being crucified. He was whipped through the streets by Romans and put on a cross!

So that was Chacha and surrounds. Travellers, if you like walking and archaeology it’s a good spot, but avoid the rainy season – February to April.

So with my three months up I waved goodbye to my teaching buddies and students and started a long bus journey north to Puerto Lopez, Ecuador; I went with a good friend stopping at Chiclayo and Mancora in Peru. Chiclayo is not very exciting but famous for one thing – a desert called King Kong , so named because of its size. Alfajore biscuits, dulce de leche and pineapple puree; if you buy a whole cake you better have plenty of space in your bag. Mancora is Peru’s Ibiza, but we didn’t party opting for lounging on the lovely beach instead.

Then over the border into Ecuador. I was a bit sad to leave Peru after seven months as I've had such a great time, and the local people and friends I've made have been so warm and welcoming. Ecuador's border control would only give me a three month stay, but hopefully I can extend it later as I want to come back and volunteer teach in the jungle – fingers crossed for me please 😊 The cheap bus trip to Guayaquil in south Ecuador was hot and sticky, but interesting. Ecuador’s main export is bananas and there are plantations as far as the eye can see for hundreds of miles. Food sellers and entertainers get on every five minutes; in Peru the sellers poke food through the windows. We stayed for a night and morning in Guayaquil. Most people I’ve spoken to aren’t too keen on the place as they say it’s dangerous, but I really liked it. Though I may have just been over excited after being in sleepy Chachas for three months and then going to Ecuador’s biggest city? It felt very modern, and with the dollar being used and the yellow taxis we could have been in New York at times. We took a cheap but sufficient hotel (Indira) and walked along the new malecon (promenade) next to the massive river and up the 444 steps to Santa Ana temple and mirador. The view from there is amazing and you walk up through the bohemian part of the city with colourful buildings, bars and restaurants. We also went to the iguana park where iguanas roam free, and we saw them sleeping up the trees at night. The next day was my birthday, and I wanted to go back to the iguana park in the daylight to see them again! There are hundreds; I really wanted to adopt one to be my travelling companion.

Then a five hour bus ride to Puerto Lopez, where I am now. It’s a chilled fishing town on the west coast, bordered by the Machalilla National Park - a dry forest containing some villages and the Isla de la Plata, or the poor man’s Galapagos as it’s known. It’s a great area for wildlife. In the park and island you can see frigate and blue footed boobie birds, the deadly coral snake, turtles, howler monkeys and humpback whales! The first whales have already been spotted but the high season for whale watching is between June and September. So it’s the low season for tourists right now and it’ll be interesting to see how things change next month. Apparently the president of Ecuador has highlighted Puerto Lopez as a major tourist destination for the future. He is giving funds to renovate the malecon and a new pier is opening next month, so watch this space.

So I will be here teaching English through Cafe de Lenguas until the beginning of July, then I plan to go to Columbia, Venezuela, Bolivia and then finally fly out of Peru on 17th December – back for Christmas. I will be broke and jobless so don’t expect presents, but do expect be bored to death with my million photos 😊

Hope you are all good, please share your news and ciao for now peeps, Jennie xxx

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Photos

Chachapoyas - land of the cloud warriors
You can see how isolated the town is here

Marauding cows in Chacha's main square
I've seen the odd pig being escorted down the side roads, but here the cows escaped into the centre. The snack stall owner looks a bit worried

ILC posee on education anniversary parade day
My student, Nijelli, is brightening up the scene here. Us Europeans and Americans are not used to marching, we were tempted to do some ministry of silly walks walks :)

7am promotions
We sang songs to a few school assemblies as part of our publicity drive, Bob Marley and One Direction went down well

Making placards for Earth Day
It was cool that the event had reached our little town in the Andes

Mini activistas
More placards for Earth Hour, btw little girls in Peru love pink just as much as they do back home

Sunday lunch
At Chachas market. Cuy is a delicacy that I won't be trying

Choose your poison
In the Tarapoto area you can get all manner of jungle food and drink, like snake vodka

Gocta waterfall
It's a bit ironic that it was the rainy season in Chachas but the waterfall was only at half flow, still pretty impressive though

Leymebamba mummies
Looking good for 800 years old

Rioja recreo
I like jungle towns, people know how to enjoy themselves. Drinking cocktails at recreos is good wid me :)

Rioja wildlife
well, maybe not that wild I think he was a pet at the recreo :)

Las Palmeras de Ocol
One of those places where you expect a diplodocus to put its head up

A bad day for our hero
Semana Santa Cajamarca. Jesus was whipped through the streets by Romans and then crucified - eek

Mancora
It didn't live up to it's party rep when I was there, nice beach though

Iguana park, Guayaquil Ecuador
Iguanas are very cool, and they quite like having their head stroked

Puerto Lopez fish theives
The pelicans and frigate birds steal fish from the fishermen as they transport them ashore

New students
I'm now teaching at a primary school in Puerto Lopez, meet some of the pupils...

Weekly beach clean up
With another volunteer, Mark from Texas, and some eco-warriors in the making :)