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Published: July 23rd 2010
Cuenca - Goverment Building
One of many colonial goverment buildings in historic center of cuenca - Declared a World Heritage site for culture We have had an eventful week since our time on the coast! Just to recap, our first week in Ecuador was spent along the pacific coast and week two was spent in the colonial city of Cuenca. For those interested in the history of Cuenca this is the scoop.
Cuenca is located in the Andes at a height of 2550 meters. It used to be called “Guapondlics” by the original inhabitants: the “Cañaris”. It was later renamed “Tomebamba” by the Incas as it became an Inca strong hold.
Modern day Cuenca was founded by Gil Ramirez Dávalos, a Spaniard, on April 12th 1557. The new city was later baptized by the Spanish as “Santa Ana de Los Rios de Cuenca” named after a city in Spain called Cuenca.
For the Spanish to maintain control over the city, it was divided into sections. In each section the following three powers were always visible:
1. CHURCH, whose responsibility it was to propagate the catholic teachings to the indigenous people
2. POLITICAL, whose responsibility it was to create institutions of government and to govern
3. JUDICIARY, whose responsibility it was to impose and enforce the new laws of the land
Cuenca - The New Cathedral
One of many colonial cathedrals in historic center of cuenca - Declared a World Heritage site for culture onto the indigenous people
These colonial pillars are still visible in Cuenca today. The city of Cuenca was declared as a World Heritage site for culture in December 1999. We stayed in the old colonial area of town. All the buildings have European architecture although it’s not just Spanish. In a single church you can see architecture from multiple European countries! So there you have it history buffs.
We are now in the third week of travelling and we will be spending 5 days of this third week in the Andean city of Saraguro returning to Cuenca on Wednesday 22, of July.
Saraguro is further south into the mountains: 3½ hour drive south east of Cuenca. We got here on the morning of Saturday (17/07/2010) and had a full day of activities awaiting us.
First, we visited with the local Leader (Pedro), who welcomed us to Saraguro. Then we headed off to a small local museum where we learned about how the Andean people lived.
Unfortunately, in the last 20 to 30 years, the Andean people have been experiencing the not so good side-effects of what we now commonly refer to as “Globalization” and their
Cuenca - Judicial building
One of many colonial judicial buildings in historic center of cuenca - Declared a World Heritage site for culture way of life is slowly but surely being eroded.
Local leaders we have spoken to are very much aware of this looming threat to their way of life. These are people of the land (Nature) and are now forced to acknowledge the gruesome truth that they will have to work even harder if they are to be successful in preserving their way of life and culture. We have always being of the opinion that “Globalization” hurts small indigenous communities because they do not have the needed protections ascribed by governments.
The afternoon was quite interesting and physical. We were presented with the treat of participating in a 2½ hour hike to an area in the Andes mountains were the Incas where known to have charted maps of the stars. The holes representing the stars as made by the Incas are still evident but no one really knows what the maps were used for other than that. The Incas and Mayans were great astronomers.
We spent the evening at an Andean family restaurant after our long and arduous day. ;-) Don’t get me wrong, it was all good, but the 3 course meal we were served complimented with
Saraguro - landmark
Sign post to saraguro indigenous Andean music made all the hiking pain and fatigue melt away as though it never existed. It was excellent.
On Sunday we were presented with a rare opportunity to witness and participate in an Andean cleansing ritual. We were gathered in a sacred ground and were asked to remove our footwear to establish a direct contact with MOTHER EARTH.
There were 18 of us and we formed a human ring of a girl-boy circle. The “Yachak” is an indigenous word for a spiritual leader, also generally referred to as the “Shaman” by westerners. If the “Yachak” is a man, then he is referred to as “YAYA”. If, on the other hand, it is a woman, she is referred to as “MAMA”. For this cleansing ritual we had a MAMA.
The ceremony began by “MAMA” first asking permission from the spirits. To do this, the human ring of the girl-boy circle turned and faced NORTH then Mama recited a prayer of some sort. The human ring of girl-boy circle then turned and faced SOUTH. A recital is orated then the circle turns and faces EAST than lastly WEST.
The circle then sits on the scared ground
Saraguro - local transport
The local transport we took deep into the Andes and a series of ritual activities transpired. The Mama poured into oyster shells small amounts of an alcohol based concoction; she blessed it and served it to everyone in the human ring. This prepares your body for the cleansing to follow. (You did not have to drink the concoction if you did not want to.)
Again a series of ritual activities transpired and we were back on our feet. Each member of circle was given a bouquet of sweet aromatic plants previously prepared (lots of marigolds). Each member then hits their bodies with the bouquet. This exercise is supposed to ward off evil spirits and cleanse you of any illness or problems you may have been experiencing.
We must say it was quite an interesting experience in which lots of parallels could be drawn with certain aspects of our Christian faith. The rest of our stay in Saraguro was spent enjoying their way of life and cuisines. We strongly recommend the “guinea pig” meat stew if you ever find yourself in the Saraguro area. We left Saraguro for Cuenca on Wednesday.
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anne davies
non-member comment
Your trip.
Meghan. I have read your story, I always thought the Incas were from Peru. Or is this in Peru by chance? I love history of any kind , have read alot also. I hope you are both well. When is your trip over? God Bless Anne