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Published: July 31st 2009
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Security With Big Gun
On the job at a local restaurant. We didn't complain about the food. So Linda of Manta fame has this great beach house with two completed apartments on the bottom and two apartments still under construction on top.
One day, a big truck pulled up in front of Linda's beach house and workers started removing sand from her property. Lots of it. They filled the truck and left a giant hole in the beach. Linda was not happy. She went out and, in her best Spanglish, told them to "put it back!"
They refused but promised they would leave and not return.
A few days later, TWO trucks pulled up in front of Linda's beach house and started removing sand from her property. Lots and lots of it. They were filling both trucks and leaving giant holes in the beach. Linda was not happy. This time when she went to confront them, she took her cell phone—and her gun.
She told the hombres to put back her sand. They laughed at her. She got on the cell phone to an Ecuadorian friend who translated stronger language for her. They laughed at her. She pulled out her gun and pointed it at a tire on their truck. They stopped laughing.
"I can kill or be killed. It doesn't matter to me," she said, in a completely out-of-character tough voice.
The hombres put back the sand. Every grain. Rapido. Then they drove away.
A few days later she saw the driver. He reached to shake her hand. Now she had respect. And there are no holes in her beach.
That's how it is in Manta, she said.
*****
The industrial port town of Manta is still elusive. One travel guide describes Manta as a "dirty, crowded city that smells like rotten seafood." Lonely Planet is much more gentle in its assessment of Manta, talking about its great fishing industry and how it's Ecuador's second most important shipping center next to Guayaquil in the south. It's number one in Ecuador for tuna processing and exports. It also has some great beaches.
We explored some today, but not nearly enough to get a feel for for this great fishing town. Out of cash, we wandered down the main road near the condo today looking for an ATM machine that would take our card. After two failures, we found a strangely-placed machine for The Bank of Guayaquil... or
A Dozen Roses for $2.00
Right before a cat knocked them over. so it said. It seemed to be in the middle of someone's residential fence, but oh well. It was also right smack on the sidewalk, three feet from the busy road. Feeling extremely vulnerable, especially after hearing stories about the local crime and seeing a military guard in a restaurant with a heavy duty automatic weapon, I stood guard and scared away the bad guys while Jack made a withdrawal. It worked, too. We lived through the day, hopefully with what remains of our humble bank account intact.
After picking up a few supplies at the huge Super Maxi grocery store, we wandered to the beach. The wind was frisky, but pleasant, and had chased away the humidity which was beginning to get oppressive. The beach also has about six restaurants that apparently mark the beginning of the Malecon, or walkway, that stretches toward the harbor. The walk back along the packed sand to the condo was easy and offered a good view of the condos where a large portion of the expats live. Looking up at them, you'd think Manta was an upscale town, but this area may be the exception. I'm looking forward to seeing more of
the "real Manta."
Tonight was "Gringo Night" at M.R. Frog's. Although everyone wants Ecuadorian friends, there's so much to learn, know, and understand that a connection with other gringos is essential, especially for those still struggling with the language. From driver's license and visa requirements, to knowing who to hire to paint your kitchen, build your cabinets, residency regulations, or which doctor to choose, immigrants everywhere have always relied on a network of people whose language, culture, and values they share to help them find their way in their adopted home.
There were about 40 expats at dinner tonight and at least five of us who are "exploring" the area for possible future settlement. Expats meet once a month at a lovely outdoor restaurant on the beach. Nice people drawn here for a variety of reasons from cost of living to weather to just a simpler way of life. Most seem to agree that life in Ecuador is less stressful than in North America as long as you change to adapt to your new country's way of doing things (like not getting upset when workers don't show up when they say) and don't try to change it.
Fishing Boats
All you have to do is roll them to sea. There were three choices on the menu, but I chose WAHOO fish steak. How could you not order a fish called Wahoo? It was white and mild and delicious, making me want to say... wahoo!
Although I'm a little concerned about just "hopping on a bus" and exploring like we usually do, I'm looking forward to seeing much more of the "real Manta" soon, including tours of a tuna processing plant.
It's all an aventura!
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Gloria Gritz
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Great stories, great photos
Maybe the cats and dogs should eat hamburger ...