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Published: April 18th 2006
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qui4
On the equator It wasn't until after we had booked our flights to Quito that we read on the BBC website there was some civil unrest in Ecuador. The indigenous population were angry with the government over a trade agreement with the US and had taken to the streets protesting and creating blockades. We read on the foreign Office website that as of the previous day the trouble had spread as far as Quito and was concentrated in the historic part of the city.
Not knowing how bad the problem really was, on arriving at the airport we took the advice of the taxi desk clerk who advised us to stay in the new town. Unfortunately the hotel she recommended was populated with club 18-30 clientelle who had travelled half way round the world to go on one big pub crawl. The place was therefore very rowdy and full of drunk folk, but as it was late we decided to stay the night and leave first thing in the morning. To escape the noise we went to the Irish pub next door and bought two bottles of Guinness. We don't normally seek out touristy places but that was typical of the area
qui3
Rather ill in bed we were in. We were gobsmacked to discover our bill - 2 bottles of Guinness cost us $17!
Noel still wasn't well the next morning but we had planned to take it easy and try to ascertain if the trouble - both Noel's and the protest - were something to worry about. We moved to the HI hostel where we were 2 of only 5 guests so it was much quieter. We must be getting old! As we couldn't find any mention of the civil unrest on any website we concluded it had either been broken up by the police or blown out of proportion in the first place.
As it was mothers day we both phoned home. It was fantastic to hear my parents voices for the first time in three months, though sadly we didn't speak for long. The last thing I remember sayimg to my mother was that I was completely fit and healthy. Famous last words.
That night I became most unwell with stomach problems and spent most of the night on the toilet. I had terrible stomach, headache and throat pain and was hot and cold. Noel and I both agreed that
qui1
Midday on the equator with the sun directly above if we weren't better within 72 hours we would call a doctor. After so recently coming from the jungle we couldn't be too safe, but a doctor won't do anything until you've given your body 72 hours to rid the germ itself. Luckily we still had antibiotics that had been recommended by our Brazilian friend Dr. Rod.
We had planned to spend Monday to Wednesday in Quito seeing the city, going to the equator and visiting Otovallo market. Unfortunately by Wednesday we still hadn't left the hostal. By Thursday however we were much better so we decided to go on the day trip to the equator and leave Quito the next day as with only 8 weeks left our timings are quite tight. The public transport system in Quito is one of the best I have ever come across. The integrated busses are particularly frequent, easy to navigate and cheap. Without really knowing how to get to Mitad Del Centro - the centre of the world we found our way quite easily.
Mitad Del Centro is one of those must do excursions. Whilst it is little more than a monument which marks the cenre of the world and
qui2
Tasmin Wearing a fleece - even on the equator! a yellow line marking the equator you can't really come so close without getting a few pictures of it. Also Noel could recall watching a John Craven Newsround special in his youth about it. If it is good enough for John Craven it is good enough for us. After taking lots of photos - of us on opposite sides of the world to each other, standing on the equator etc. , we got the bus back to Quito. As it was early afternoon we still had time to get the tram to the historical part of Quito where we had originally intended to stay.
There was still quite a heavy police presence on the streets - fully armed with tear gas, body armour and guns and we even saw two tanks, one with a water cannon - but no sign of any groups or individuals causing a problem. The historic city had many lovely buildings and plazas and was far more beautiful than either of us had imagined. We both agreed that Quito was our second favourite South American city in terms of aesthetics, after Rio.
Before returning to the Hostel we stopped at the bus station to buy our tickets for Riobamba the next day. As numerous companys do the same route they compete for business by hollering louder than the next ticket seller "'RIOBAMBA, RIOBAMBA, RIOBAMBA". What with me being particularly noise sensitive this had the opposite effect and despite finding the scene amusing we bought our tickets from the silent lady.
.... so we never got to go to Otovallo market which is the biggest traditional market in Ecuador as far too much time was spent in bed or on the toilet. Still, we managed to find a good market in Riobamba so read on...
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