Turtles, Iguanas and Boobies

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Cachalote means sperm whale in Spanish but the boat was far more elegant than it´s namesake. Our group of 16 passengers arrived on the keyside to be greeted by Galapagos sea lions idling on the benches and Cachalote, our beautiful motor/sailing vessel, moored just offshore. A couple of pangas (dinghies) raced out, lifejackets were distributed and within an hour of getting off the plane we were making ourselves comfortable in our floating home for the next seven days. Sailing around the islands, walking across the volcanic landscapes and watching and learning about the abundant and unusual wildlife of the Galapagos was to be one of the highlights of my travels.

The Galapagos are composed of 50 volcanic islands set off the Ecuadorian coast. Although used for centuries by whalers and buccaneers, they were made famous by Charles Darwin after his visit in 1835 when he wrote The Origin of Species. They are now a protected haven, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, because of their unique flora and fauna, including iguanas, tortoises and birds. Although expensive to visit, many people had told me how wonderful the islands were and that is what I was there to see for myself. I was not to be disappointed.

The Cachalote immediately set sail to South Plaza island and on the way, within an hour of starting, we were called out of our preliminary briefing by the captain, Jose, to see fin whales and a pacific sea turtle. It was soon clear that Juan, our guide, was enthusiastic and interesting. He grew up on the islands and studied firstly with his father, a captain and guide, and then at college in Quito. As we landed on South Plaza Juan introduced us to marine and land iguanas basking in the sun, sea lion pups playing in the water and the multitude of birds seen along the cliff tops. The vegetation was a mix of cacti and sesuvium, which gave the island a patchwork effect of green and brilliant red. After dinner we sailed to Santa Cruz and some brave souls went out to enjoy the night life in Porto Ayora. I was still coming to terms with the choppy ocean and disappeared off to bed, hoping that I would get my 'sealegs' by morning.

Early the next morning we took the panga through the drizzly rain, or garua, to visit the Charles Darwin Research Centre and the giant tortoise breeding programme. Perhaps one of the most famous inhabitants of the Galapagos Islands is Lonesome George. Although the last of his particular kind, he shuns the attentions of alternative females that are invited in to induce him to mate. However he IS estimated to be between 100 and 150 years old so maybe he has passed the male menopause or maybe he is gay. Who knows with tortoises? Each island has a subtly different species of tortoise of varying shapes and sizes, each of which has evolved to take advantage of the feeding opportunities on their respective islands. After years of being killed for food for passing ships the breeding centre is now trying to increase the numbers of tortoises on the different islands and as far as possible keep them true to their breed. It was impressive to see the shear bulk of these creatures and even more impressive to see two mating, which can last for hours! In the afternoon we explored the cloud forest of 'the highlands' and visited huge volcanic sink holes and lava tubes. The landscape was dotted with widespreading trees and in the mist it reminded me of England, only sheep were replaced with grazing tortoises. Overnight the Cachalote sailed south for Española island. I took a pill to counter seasickness, went to bed and did not even notice the rough sea.

I woke early and went up to the bridge to watch, and help, Jose steer the boat into Gardner Bay on Española Island. It was another grey and drizzly morning but we took the panga to shore and had our first 'wet' landing, meaning we had to get our feet (or more) wet as we got from panga onto land. Our landing was on a beautiful white beach strewn with dozing sea lions. It was fun watching sea lion behaviour: mothers suckled their younger pups, older adolescents played or fought in the surf, and the bulls barked off shore proclaiming their territories. It was reminiscent of the activities of our group on board the Cachalote which included three family groups where there were obviously protective, but differing, mother+son relationships, a younger group competing at card games and an older group showing off their camera skills. As the clouds lifted and the sun came out we joined the sea lions in the cool waters and snorkelled as they played around us. After lunch the boat sailed around to a different part of the island at Punta Suarez and I lay on the top deck watching the frigate birds cruise steadily along side the masts or hitch a ride on the top guy line (sorry I don't know the correct nautical term). The afternoon walk on Española was amazing. The animals and birds of the Galapagos are unusually unafraid of people as they have no natural preditors. We could therefore walk close by them and they would continue unabashed with their daily lives: courting, feeding, preening, sleeping and watching their young. Blue-footed boobies perform a mincing style of courtship bobbing from one foot to the other, waved albatross have an impressive courtship dance and clash bills although their chicks are some of the ugliest creatures that I have seen. Marine iguanas sit and ventilate, bask in the sun, or battle with the strong waves as they feed off shore. It was wonderful to be so close and observe all the activity.

Overnight the boat sailed on again to Floreana Island. We were woken early to watch the flamingoes wading elegantly and feeding in the saline lake on Floreana. On the beach we paddled in the surf trying to see but not to step on the stingrays. The sea was quite rough but we changed quickly into our bathing gear back on ship to snorkel through and around the remains of a caldera offshore called La Corona del Diablo, Devil´s Crown. However the current was strong and after a chaotic swim we bundled back into the dinghies. In the afternoon the skies cleared and the crew raised the sails for the first time and we set sail for Isabella Island. Not wanting to miss a photo opportunity three of us jumped into the dinghy and we raced alongside Cachalote to take photos of our vessel under canvas. She was a magnificent sight. Getting back on board the racing yaught was another matter. As we pulled alongside, the steps for boarding slipped and Cachalote loomed over us. Jimmy, the member of the crew handling the dinghy, had to take a swift action to prevent us being sucked under the stern of the bigger boat. Meanwhile Jose, the captain, slowed Cachalote down and this time we managed to get back on board. After the excitement, all passengers went up to the top deck to enjoy the sun, although we had to fight hard not to slip into the sea as the sails made our ship heal over at a precarious angle. Once sun set and we went below the sea got rougher and for the first time I skipped a meal as I felt seasick.

Isabella is the largest of the Galapagos Islands. We landed on the black lava flows between the mangroves. The landscapes were black and barren apart from a few cacti and other plants that have adapted to the harsh environment. There were two distinct types of lava, aa or rough lava and pahoehoe a smoother rope like lava. In the distance the five main volcanoes of Isabella loomed out of the haze. Even amongst the barren landscape there were green oases of brackish waters where flamingoes feed and finches, warblers and other birds fed amongst the shrubs. Colourful painted locusts flew up occasionally rom the ground. In the afternoon we took turns in the kayaks and paddled amongst the green pacific turtles and hawksbill turtles in the mangroves. We even spotted the rare tree sea lion! (Some of the sea lions haul themselves into the branches amongst the mangroves.) Later we took the dinghies out to the small rocky Marielas Islands to watch Galapagos Penguins and boobies.

I must be getting my sea legs as I cannot sleep during the night until the boat starts moving off up the coast in the early hours!. We have a VERY wet landing on a black volcanic beach on Isabella in Urvina Bay. Wwe are greeted by huge yellow land iguanas. The iguanas vary in size and colour between islands. This part of the island experienced a 6 metre uplift 52 years ago which has left coral reefs stranded on land. Along the shore we explore the rock pools and Juan finds a smalloctopus which turns bright purple as he handles it but then returns to the colur of the sand instantly it is put back in the water. In the afternoon we visit Fernandina Island, the youngest of the Galapagos archipelago. It was one of the most amazing places to sit and watch all the activity. Iguanas soak up the sun, marine iguanas look like an Escher drawing as they lie one on top another. Two Galapagos hawks feed on a sea lion foetus and we can approach within a few metres to study them. Sea lion pups sniff us to see if we are their mum, who has gone fishing. In the water flightless cormorants perform their mating display, a sea lion bull barks and chases one of his harem, a sea turtle pops his head out of the water to see what all the commotion is about, boobies dive in convoy after fish in the water, and sea iguanas paddle back to shore. I could have stayed for hours peacefully just observing it all. However the Cachalote has a long journey ahead. Not longer after the sun sets and with a full moon shining over the water we cross the Equator. Jose allows us all on the bridge for a cocktail in celebration. However the calm waters do not last long as we turn the northern headland of Isabella we head directly into the wind and I go to bed very early to survive the antics of the boat.

The morning of our last full day finds us moored in James Bay off Santiago Island. However their is a heavy mist and light drizzle. We visit the island and explore more tidal rock pools ans see fur sea lions for the first time. Because they have been persecuted in the past they are far more timid than other animals and birds here. Some of us braver souls then put on wet suits to snorkel around the rocks. I think it was one of the highlights of my tour as sea lions torpedoed by us and performed their underwater acrobatics. We swam alongside turtles grazing on the seaweed on the rocks and white tipped sharks cruised below us. The water was cold but it was like being in an underwater garden with colourful shoals of fish, rays and many more. After lunch I fell asleep in the sun on deck before our next snorkelling excursion from Bartolome Island. This time the whole group join in and we snorkel amongst the fish around Pinnacle rock. I am reluctant to get out but we have to leave time to climb up the lava cone for our final sunset panorama of the red volcanic islands nearby.

The next morning we get up at 5.30 to make the most of the few hours remaining before our flight home. At dawn we are in the dingies exploring the mangroves off Black Turtle Cove on Santa Cruz Island. Underwater spotted eagle rays, golden mustard rays and white-tipped sharks feed in the shallow lagoons. Above the surface Noddies steal food from the wide bills of the pelicans and boobies dive into the water. Over breakfast the Cachalote returns us to Baltra Island where we are ferried ashore for the final time. It is sad toleave such a beautiful place and I wonder if I will ever return As we board the bus to the airport, sea lions slumber on the benches and Cachalote bobs at anchor offshore ready to greet her new passengers.

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Photos

booby
Blue-footed booby watches Cachalote

Cachalote
Chasing our boat in the panga

iguana
Land Iguana, Santa Cruz

george
Lonesome George, last of his kind, just isn't interested in the opposite sex

sealion
Come play with me

pelican
throw me a fish please

sayCheese
Marine Iguanas on Fernandina Island

hawks
Galapagos Hawks, Fernandina Island

moon
Full moon over the equator

crab
Sally lightfoot

escher
Marine iguanas

cactus
Cactus and moon, Marielas Islands

flamingo
Flamingo and reflection

making friends
Sea lion pups like to smell strangers

sealions
Another cute picture of sea lions

boobies
Who are the boobies now?

Bartolome
Bartholome Island at sunset

crew
The happy crew of Cachalote