Galapagos Dive Trip

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I'm just back from a once in a lifetime opportunity dive adventure to the Galapagos Islands. One of the local dive shops sponsored the trip and we had been nearly two years waiting for the trip to happen.



We departed from Dulles airport on Copa Airline through Panama City and then onto Guayaquil, Ecuador. Because of a flight cancellation we were required to leave a day earlier than expected and spend an extra day in Guayaquil. The flights to the Galapagos islands leave around midday so it's required to spend at least one night on the mainland going and coming.


Guayaquil is the largest city in Ecuador. It has a long history as a port city given its location on the relatively protected Guaya River. Today it is the center of the banking industry with large banks throughout the downtown area. In the past the city, like many in South America, was plagued by crime especially along the waterfront area. A number of years ago, in what is the largest urban improvement project in South America, the government completely rebuilt the river walk making a huge public park. It is well maintained and patrolled to ensure safety and closed at night to protect the effort. The Malecon 2000 is a beautiful pedestrian zone highlighted by botanical gardens, river views, restaurants, and IMAX theater and anchored at its southern end by the MAAC, the Museum of Anthropology and Contemporary Art.


We enjoyed taking in the views as we walked along the quay and it was certainly safer than dodging the congested, free for all of traffic.


Just outside of the Malecon in the south is the neighborhood of Las Penas. This was built on a hill overlooking the river with 400 (actually 444) steps from bottom to top. Each step is numbered to monitor your ascent. At the top is a small chapel and lighthouse as well as a museum about the pirate history in the region. All along the rising stairway are small shops and restaurants. It looked like the only way to get supplies to the shops was by carrying them up the stairs which may explain why the cost of water and beer increase the closer you get to the top.

I can recommend a restaurant in Guayaquil, The Carachol Azul (The Blue Snail). We ate there twice, both coming and going to the Galapagos and were not disappointed either time. There is a extensive menu featuring Sea Bass as well as steaks. The wine list is well represented and the pricing was quite affordable.

Thursday of our departure week we left the hotel by 9am in order to get to the airport for our Aerogal flight to San Cristobal. A representative of Aggressor Fleet met us there and facilitated our check in. The airline flew an older 727 but it seemed to be well maintained. After a quick 90 minute flight we were finally in the Galapagos.

We were met at the airport by the Aggressor staff who, after we identified our bags, took us by but to the waterfront of San Cristobal where we were then whisked by panga to the Aggressor II. This is a 100 foot long yacht designed as a dive platform that would be our home for the next week. The back 1/3 of the water level is a dive platform with seat locker for each of the 14 divers and a central rack to hang wetsuits. The boat has 4 levels, the bottom most being 4 cabins with twin bunks, the main level with dive platform and salon including sitting area and meal tables, an upper level with bridge, 3 guest cabins and a covered sitting area, and finally, a topmost sun deck with covered area for eating. The boat is more than adequate for a dive vacation although if you are set on the luxury and glut of a big ship cruise you will be sorely disappointed.

Soon after our gear arrived from the airport the boat was underway to our first dive site, a shallow spot to try out new wetsuits and get a better idea of bouancy control. Isla Lobos is a sandy bottom site a short ride from San Cristobal. We were blessed with sunny skies and calm conditions although the water was cold. The bottom under the boat is fairly boring but after settling on bouancy we headed toward the rocks at the edge of the island where we were joined by several playful sea lions. I always feel more comfortable when diving, having the sensation of weightlessness but watching the graceful movement and sheer speed of the sea lions it is obvious we are strangers in their world. The animals are quite curious and seemed to take pleasure in swooping in and around the divers as if showing off. Other than these magnificent animals we saw only urchins, sand dollars and i managed a peek at a small filefish (too bad the picture was blurry---this was the first trip with a new underwater camera/housing and my old strobe and it took until the end of the week before I figured out the best settings.

Once we had finished up the dive and everyone had gotten cleaned up the crew had a welcome cocktail party with champagne, snacks and a crew introduction and shortly after that we shared our first meal up on the top level outdoor deck. I found the meals on board to be much better than expected and certainly plentiful. This evening was a good time to start to get familar with the entire group. Three of us (Jim, Roger and I) have been diving together for many years with an annual October guys dive trip to Grand Cayman. Most of the others in the group are associated with The Scuba Center, one of our local shops as instructors. Other friends and relatives rounded out our team. I couldn't have asked for a better group with everyone getting along well, no drama and a willingness to participate.

Following dinner the boat moved to our next stop, Mosquera Island at North Seymour. I don't know about anyone else but this was my first time on a live-aboard boat and the new sounds, movements and sensations of sea travel made for a restless first night of sleep.

Here's a copy of my daily log:


October 9, 2008--Travel day. Flight to San Cristobal on AeroGal airline. Able to use VIP lounge which made the1.5 hour wait tolerable. Old 727 to airport on Galapagos then quick bus to harbor to meet up with boat. Pretty small stateroom--2 single bunks with private bath/head. Had nice lunch with sandwich meats, vegetables then short cruise to Lobos Island for check out dive. Water was COLD at 61 degrees. Saw lots of green urchins and a few sea lions. Sandy bottom up to shore of large rocks.



Dinner was cookout on top deck (beef, chicken, fish, too much wine). The crew was introduced:



Patricio--Dive Guide

Richard--Naturalist Guide

Julio--captain

Winter--steward

Jose--cook

Joselito--cooks assistant

Boris--engineer

Freddie--Panga driver

Guiseppie--Panga driver




Early to bed but not easily asleep because of noise, movement and probably being excited about starting trip.



October 10, 2008--Was awake by 5am but managed to stay in bed until nearly 6. Breakfast to order but not too hungry….probably excited about first dive. The first dive site was Mosquera Island, to the north of the sandy island along a wall of rock. The wetsuit is rather constricting around the neck, I hope it loosens up soon. Bad problem on the first dive. As I did my back roll off the panga my mask came off and sank……damn it! Had to abandon dive and wait in the rocking zodiac for the next 45 minutes. I'll admit that I was afraid of having to puke. What a pisser way to start.



Brief surface interval then back to same site for next dive. This time I managed to keep mask on putting strap under hood. All worked great but I hate the constriction of hood and gloves. The underwater pics were so-so, probably since I haven't fine tuned to strobe. Seals, moray, puffer fish, nudibranchs, sea stars, Moorish Idols.



After lunch of soup, chicken and fish we had a shore excursion on North Seymour Island. Went over on Panga which was nosed against rock while we stepped out. Glad I brought the dry bag and even more so that I got that L-glass lens….My pictures were great!



Once back on the boat we started off for Wolf Island which is 140 miles away. It will take about 14 hours so we'll be rocking and rolling all night…..as tired as I am I don't think it will be a problem.



Roger's not feeling well and frankly I'm not either although I think its mainly a lack of fiber thing.



October 11, 2008--Galapagos, Wolf Island. Four dives here today……that makes for a very long day. The highlight of the trip so far with lots and lots of schooling hammerheads. I've really enjoyed meeting everyone else on the trip. It seems that Jim, Roger, John (Roger's roommate) and I tend to be the first ready to go in the Panga…..then we wait for everyone else. Patricio is the lead dive guide and he is our regular guide. He's working hard to get us to see everything.



Randy's birthday complete with cake.



October 12, 2008--Those engines starting at 4am were a rude wake up call. The boat moves over to Darwin Island which is within view but a couple hours away. We had four dives here today as well. Jim and Roger were both a little under the weather from motion sickness. This is where I saw my first live, not in the tank Whale Shark! Tons more hammerheads and Galapagos sharks. Turtles everywhere. Careful where you put your hand so as not to put it in a Moray's mouth or on a scorpion fish.



October 13, 208--Early up today for 3 dives at Darwin Island. Another Whale shark, in fact 2 on one dive. Two more on the second dive. On the third dive I realized that my zipper had not closed….even then not too cold. As soon as we were up they rolled in the pangas and were headed back to the main islands. Another 14 hour trip.



October 18, 2008--I can't believe I'm back at home. Yesterday was a blur of travel. We didn't have to leave the hotel until after noon so Jim and I walked around Guayaquil looking for souvenirs. I could kick myself for not getting a decorative basket the evening we spent in Pt. Ayoro. It was a beautiful geometric design on a small round basket….fine craftsmanship. I think Beth would have liked it. It seemed a bit pricey and I thought that I would be able to find a similar thing on the mainland, but no luck. I emailed the gallery where I had seen it and asked if they would be able to do the transaction by email but haven't heard back yet.



Got in bed this morning at 4:30am so I'm struggling to stay awake now. Beth and Hunter are in Towson MD for the Bands of America competition. They made the finals so they'll be nearly 3am when they get back. Maybe we'll actually see each other tomorrow.

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