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Published: March 21st 2010
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Our last full day aboard Galaven I, as we return to Santa Cruz tomorrow. Naomi particularly wanted to visit Rabida, as it is quite different again. Here the iron-rich lava has oxidised, turning the rocks, soil and sand a rich red-brown, very similar to the iron-ore rich soil in north-western Australia.
We walked though the vegetation then along a cliff-side path. Marine iguanas were on most of the rocks below, with the Prickly Pear tree (Opuntia) growing along the clifftop. Again, plenty of birdlife, many of Darwin's Finches and an American Oystercatcher on the red beach. A lagoon near the shore again had no flamingoes (we learnt later on the other cruise that they have not been on Rabida for years). The path looped back onto the beach (as they all do, different tour groups can use the path simultaneously without constantly having to path each other) where we snorkelled straight off the beach. Here I saw another shark, and got some grea video footage. These are harmless white-tipped reef sharks, about 1-2 mtrs long and generally prefer to stay near the bottom when snorkellers are around. One area on the bottom had a beautiful array of seastars or many
Red cliffs of Rabida
The soil/sand on Rabida is all red, from the iron-rich lava oxidising. Quite an amazing sight. colours and patterns.
After the snorkel, the dinghy took us around the shore to find fur seals. We found only one, hard to see behind the rock. But more blue0footed boobies, iguanas and occasional turtle in the water.
Back on board over lunch we learned that the Galaven had an engine problem - one was out of commission so we could only continue at half spped. Our intended journey to Puerto Egas (further to the north-west arounf Santiago) had to be cancelled and we instead went a shorter distance to Isla Sombrero Chinos - Chinese Hat Island. This was hardly a poor second choice. The snorkelling was quite good, although somethiign stung Naomi in the water. She didn't see what it was, bt it left a welt like a jellyfish tentacle would, and it hurt! Some Stingose didn't seem to do much, but a bowl of white vinegar liberally applied saw it and the pain diminish quite quickly. We were summoned back to the panga to try a different spot, and were dropped further out in quite a strong current which made snorkelling hard work and not much to see anyway, so we were picked up again and
dropped further in.
After the snorkel and a change of clothes, we went ashore. This was fantastic, as the area was quite "fresh" lava, with many collapsed lava tunnels, sealions, iguanas, sally lightfoot crabs, and pelicans. Sombrero Chinos itself is an old volcano, a "caldera" (like an upturned soupbowl) rather than the classic cone. This is typical of most Galapagos volcanoes. A bull sealion was patrolling its beach, occasionally barking at us for invading his territory and warning us away from his females. Later, he was chasing small fish up and down the beach, with two pelicans folowing behind to pick up what they could.
Back on board for our last dinner.
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