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Published: December 26th 2015
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It’s a long time since I published a blog but travelling through beautiful Colombia has inspired me to share some photos.
I am in Cartagena for Christmas and the temperature is around 35degrees. Hot and exhausing so I'm happy to spend a lot of time here just chilling out and watching the world go by.
I arrived in Bogota acouple of weeks ago full of anxiety, fueled by reports of dangers and cocaine dealing, but worries soon went when I started travelling and meeting friendly and helpful people. However travelling on the ground is very slow as most roads have to wind up and down and round and round the Andean mountains and valleys to get anywhere. I soon realised that my timetable to see everything in Colombia in a month was just not realistic.
Bogota has a poor reputation for security although the central historic area, La Candelaria, is relatively safe during the day. There is a strong police and military presence, particularly around the government buildings. Everyone was preparing for Navidad and the central square was dominated by a giant conical Christmas tree. On every corner hawkers were selling fresh fruit and juice. I soon found
a small cafe near my BnB that sold delicious chicken empinadas and frshly squeezed orange juice, all for around 60p UK money.
Two days in Bogota were enough for the moment and I took an 8 hour bus journey to Zona Cafetera and the pretty town of Salento. My room at the guesthoues had wonderful views over the mountains. In the morning I took a Willy’s jeep to Valle de Cocora (famous for palmas de cera / palms that grow up to 60m tall) and walked the 6km hike up hill to see hummingbirds. Although on my own at first I met several people to talk to and with whom I practiced my rusty Spanish. With a smile and an effort to talk Spanish, most Colombians will respond with interest and kindness. Walking back to the starting point I was delighted to see an armadillo cross the road.
The staff at the Casa Borbon guesthouse in Salento kindly helped me arrange my next stay at a Reservo Ecologico near Manizales - Rio Blanco Reserve. Colombia has the greatest diversity of bird species anywhere in the world ( 1913 species). My guide at the reserve, Albiero, could name any
bird by sound or sight. He and I spoke Spanglish and soon my language skills improved as well as my bird ID skills. One of the most sought after birds (by birders) on the reserve are Antpittas. These have long legs and hide shyly away in the vegetation except when enticed out by some juicy worms. Another friend at the lodge was Antonio, the Emerald toucanet.
My next destination was Jardin, a colourful Colombian town, not yet fully on the tourist route. After an 8 hour journey, I spent the first evening watching football fans celebrate the win of the local team and talked about art and life with a couple of new local friends, Andres my guide and PedroPablo. The next day I hoped on the back of Andres' motorbike and after 20 minutes steeply skidding up hill we were off on another walk to see a beautiful waterfall and swim under the cascade. The second night in Jardin was much more tranquil. I loved the colour of the buildings and the cool mountain air. I enjoyed morning coffee in the square and an evening meal from the street vendors.
I had one brief afternoon and evening
in Medellin. This is a large cosmopolitan city set in and up teh sides of a steep valley. The quickest way of getting around is the Metro and cable car. Many Colombians rave about how lovely this city is and although safe and modern it was not really for me.
An early morning flight bought me to Cartagena for Christmas. Many Colombians fly between cities as it is so much quicker, easier and relatively cheap.
Cartagena is a historical city on the Caribbean, attacked by Francis Drake, taken from the indigenous by the Spanish and once a central port for the African slave trade. It has a beautiful historic centre but it is hot and humid and a great place for chilling out for a few days.
However it is now the main holiday in Colombia so it is packed with people. I took a long boat trip to the Aquarium on Islas del Rosario and Playa Blanca which is advertised as a pristine beach of white sand. However, it was almost impossible to see the sand through the bodies on holiday.
Tomorrow I head on to Santa Marta. Tonight I hope to go into the
old town to enjoy the night life and maybe a beer or two.
Keep scrolling or change page to see all the photos.
Feliz Navidad y ¡Prospero año nuevo.
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