"Chilling" in Villa de Leyva

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Well, after yesterday's fun and frolics I was hoping for a more relaxing day today. I sort of got one.

So first things first, I awoke this morning with an odd feeling. It was weird, without an internet connection, I felt really really isolated. Isn't that bizarre? Guess that I'm officially addicted to the internet! hahaha. I think that it was a combination of tiredness, lack of contact with the outside world and the fact that nobody that I've met here so far speaks english. Funny, I was worrying yesterday that I was going to spend all my time in South America speaking with English speaking hostel mates and never have the chance to practice my Spanish - just goes to show, you should be careful what you wish for 😉
Also, the hostel isn't really like a hostel in that there's not much in the way of communal areas where you can sit and chat and meet people etc.

Any way, I went to have breakfast in the hostel and noticed that somebody else was sitting on her own. I don't typically impose myself on people at breakfast time but, probably because I was feeling kind of lonely, I introduced myself and asked if I could join her. And yet another example of how charming the Colombian people are. We spent a half hour chatting and breakfasting and, would you believe it, I didn't feel lonely anymore!

So there's an astronomical exhibition on in the main square in Villa de Leyva and that's where the girl that I had breakfast with was working. Unfortunately, her dad took ill and she had to rush back to Bogotá (maybe I scared her at breakfast 😱).

I should explain, I guess, that the main square in Villa de Leyva is aptly named Plaza Mayor...it is HUGE and dominated on one side by an enormous mountain - well, I assume that it's a mountain. It looks pretty big to me. I'll try to find out what it's called. Anyway, I seem to remember reading that the Plaza is the biggest Plaza in South America. And it's covered in enormous cobblestones. Because there's this astronomy exhibition on, there's a big inflatable space shuttle, a planetarium and a bunch of stalls and things to do - all relating to space, of course. It all looks a bit lost in this enormous square, but any way, it's nice to see.

Any way, I interrupted myself, I was wandering around the square for a bit after breakfast, toying with the idea of moving hotels and I came across a place called Hotel Plaza Mayor - can't find a link for it on the internet. But it's a really lovely hotel - a bit more expensive than the other place but really well worth it. So I booked a room and moved my things straight in. I should point out that the other place is lovely. I finally got a decent night's sleep last night and it's all very clean and comfortable and there's hot water and what not - it's just that it didn't feel right for me - and it didn't have internet access.

So, having moved in and then, having showered, I had a little wander around outside the hotel. I was wondering what to do with my time here. I saw somebody (who I later found out is called Claudia) who was handing out leaflets in the square and asked if there was anything interesting around. Apparently there are three museums in Villa de Leyva itself and not much else. However, there are a few interesting things in the surrounding area. I asked her how I could get to the surrounding area to see these interesting things and she said "either by taxi or by horse".

By HORSE?? I'm not really a horsey person but that sounded interesting. And, as it happened she runs a horse riding tours company. So I arranged to meet her 10 minutes later in the square and I went to grab my camera and rain coat - it's a bit grey today.

So wandering down to her horse riding center, she was telling me that I could arrange a 2, 3 or 5 hour tour. Having never really ridden before I thought that 3 hours would be enough (plus I was acutely aware of the battering that my botty had taken - so to speak - in the minibus yesterday). She went on to say that the 3 hour tour took in a trip to the Fossil museum and to the "Blue Lakes".
I explained that I'd never driven a horse before and she assured me that it's easy (honestly, it is).
We arrived at the horsey place and I was introduced to my trusty steed (called Duquesa - Duchess in english) and my guide - who didn't speak any English and appeared to be about 14 years old.
Having mounted it (the horse, not the guide) in a not particuarly elegant but not too embarrasing fashion, I was taken through the controls for the horse - kick to start, kick more / harder to go faster, pull reins to slow down / stop, pull reins left to steer left, right to steer right. And the most important thing, always keep your legs straight.

Just before we set off, Claudia told me that she also runs a restaurant and that when I was done, the guide would take me there and I could try a local drink called Guarapo de Frutas which is a type of fruit drink that's fermented (slightly) and has pinapple and blueberries in (I think - remember my spanish isn't that good yet!)

So we set off and I was pleased to see that the guide was hanging onto a rope attached to the horses mouthpiece thing just in case I got the whole riding thing horribly wrong (he took it off once we got out of the main town). Quickly we were on country lanes then dirt paths surrounded by just the most stunning scenery. There are rocks everywhere (boulders really) and the guide explained that the whole area used to be a sea bed (a very long time ago presumably) and that this is why they have so many boulders and fossils. I learned that steering the horse left or right was easy enough and making it slow down or stop was easy. But actually getting the horse to go at the speed that you want is more difficult - it seems that the horse will naturally go at the pace that suits it and you want to go faster and to stay at that speed, you need to keep kicking - because my horse just kept slowing down. Any way, it was a super experience. We arrived at the fossil museum which didn't take long to go around and then to the Blue Lakes which I took a picture of but, honestly, it really doesn't do it justice - the lake is the most amazing color of emerald. And the surrounding scenery is just breathtaking. And this is on a cloudy, bit rainy day. I can't imagine what it would look like when it's sunny.

Anyway, that was 3 hours well spent. As promised the guide led me to the restaurant where I was rewarded for my hard work with the previously mentioned Guarapo de Frutas. Claudia the proceded to explain all the other places that I should go to see around here and drew little maps to show me how to get there. Yet again, another example of how charming and friendly people are here. Do I need to keep saying it? Well, it was around 2pm, I think, so I decided to take lunch in the restaurant. Monica had given me a list of all of the things that I should try in each area and, fortunately, I had the list on me. I showed Claudia the list and asked if she had any of the things on there. She had them all! So she said that she would make "a little bit" of each dish so that I could try. What followed was the biggest meal that I've ever tried to eat, I think.
The list was

* Almojabanas which are a type of bread, I guess but more with the consistency of a doughnut.
* Rainbow Trout cooked in garlic.
* Longaniza which is a type of cured pork sausage.

She also recommended the arepa which was different to any arepa that I've ever eaten before with it being ever so slightly sweet. Along with these dishes came some chips and rice (you get rice with everything here!) The food was just delicious. I'm afraid that I couldn't eat it all but I tried my very best. After that, I had a sweet Tinto coffee to try to wake me up. Wow, what a meal.

With that, I went back to the square and walked around a bit (to try to wake myself up) and came back to the hotel...and started writing this.

So, it's not been a totally relaxing day but it's been great. I'm kind of exhausted now, though!

So, in case you're reading this and thinking of coming to Villa de Leyva and you fancy horse riding or a bally good meal I can heartily recommend Claudia's offerings.

The restaurant is called
Solo Tipicos Sumercé
Calle 13 #10-94
Tel: [phone]

You can reach Claudia on the same number to arrange horse riding.

Well, that's about it for now. I've decided that I'm going to buy a pair of jeans. It seems that I'm the only person in Colombia who doesn't just wear jeans and a tshirt (including the travellers) and I'm feeling a bit out of place in my combats - especially since I'm surrounded by soldiers and police officers in not dissimilar attire. So I'm going to head off now to see if I can find somewhere locally.

I defy anybody to come to Villa de Leyva and not fall in love. It could be that I end up staying here just a tiny bit longer than expected...

Hata luego

PS: If you haven't already worked it out, you can click on the pictures to see the larger size version. Often the thumbnails aren't really clear.

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Photos

Plaza Mayor
Told you it was big

The sign says "No Parking"
Kinda made me laugh

A typical street scene in VdL
Looking back up towards the square

A map of VdL
You never know when you might need it.

The arse end of the shuttle
Not much more to say on this one.

The Dinosaur Fossil
There's not much in the museum but this is pretty impressive

The Fossil Museum
Yep, that's about it

A fish?
Another exhibit in the Fossil Museum

Duquesa
My trusty steed

The Blue Lake
I really, really wish that you could see how blue this is

My guide
Told you he only looks 14 (and he's only holding my bag while I take the photo, OK?)

Mounted
This is actually a shot of me mid-gallop...honest.

My tipple of choice
Club Colombia. The beer here is not all that great but Club Colombia is pretty drinkable

Almojabana and Sweet Arepa
In that order

Rainbow Trout
Probably the most delicious trout that I've ever tasted.

Longaniza
You squirt lime juice on it, just as you would fish. Sounds odd, but it works.

Claudia in the restaurant
A kinda blurry Claudia, it's true.

Art in "Solo Tipicos Sumercé"
Really liked this picture

Comments

[anita]

Longaniza
Fab photo's and account of your time in Villa De Leyva. It looks such a lovely place. I'm sure your gonna find many like this on route that you don't wanna leave so soon. Which is the great thing about your travels. You don't have to leave! :-) Gordon's mouth was watering when he saw the photo of the Longaniza! It's his fav sausage of all time LOL. Keep em coming. Great fun to read! Stay safe.. x

[Everette]

Villa de Leyva
After reading your blog, I think that I need to go to this town. My husband and I are going to Bogota in August. We hadn't considered a side trip until we read your blog. I have a blog on this site too. Check out Everette's blog.