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Published: February 20th 2010
Hi folks
Well, I just about made it to Villa de Leyva. You wouldn´t believe the journey that I had.
It took me about an hour to check out because I was trying to use the Cranky Croc to confirm a reservation for another hostel up in San Gil (where I´m moving to next). But they didn´t have a number for them and...well, it just took forever to sort out and for me to finally end up in the cab.
I got dropped at the terminal (Terminal de Transportes which is about 20-30 minutes cab ride from where I was staying in La Candelaria).
The setup here is that lots of individual companies work the same routes and each one of them wants your business. As soon as I arrived I was surrounded by reps pushing me to take their service. So I went to one window and told them where I was going and they told me that I´d have to change and that there was no direct bus. I knew that that wasn´t true so I went to another window and they had a direct service leaving to Villa de Leyva in 20 minutes for 20.000 COP (about GBP 6.50 I guess). I´d heard that there were only four buses a day to VdL so I jumped at the chance - couldn´t believe how lucky I was to get a bus in 20 minutes. Doubly lucky that the service only takes 3.5 hours rather than the normal 4 hours that I´d read about in my guide.
Things started to go a bit wrong when I saw the bus. Firstly I was sort of expecting a coach - but it was a minibus...and one that had seen better days. As I got on the bus, I noticed that there was a wooden box with a bunch of spare parts in the back. Not a great sign. I was the only one there so I had my choice of seat. None had seatbelts and only the very front one had anything like legroom, so I opted for that one. So I sat there and sat there...about an hour after I bought the ticket I finally saw someone and asked if we were going yet. Not yet apparently. About 90 minutes after I bought the ticket a little old lady got on and we finally set off.
Then, almost immediately after we´d left the terminal, we stopped again and the "co driver" (for want of a better word - he actually just opens and closes the door and loads passengers etc), any way, he leaned out of the window, picked up a box, got out, put it in the boot of the minibus. Money changed hands. And we were on our way again. Slowly...really really sloooowwwwlllyyy. As we were driving along the co-driver was shouting the name of the destination out of the window and we just kept stopping to pick people up. More and more people...more and more slowly. Then, at some point, we pulled over another time and I heard the word "police" and suddenly all the people that were picked up on route had to get off the bus - I can only assume that they had to buy an official ticket rather than just paying cash. I should point out that every person that got on or off the bus had to clamber over me to do it. But I wasn´t going to give up this seat, no way.
As soon as we passed the police, we picked up the same people again - and a few more. We were basically full at this point and finally leaving the suburbs of the city. And what we lost in time previously was more than made up for as the driver did his very best to scare the living bejesus out of me. Overtaking on blind bends in the rain at high speed. I was beginning to regret my choice of seat, realising that if there was a crash, I´d be straight through the front window. Also, it was raining and the windows were open in the front so I was getting a bit damp. This just went on for hours. Stopping occasionally to get people on or off the bus and being driven around by a maniac. Then I realised that everybody was overtaking on blind bends and that those who were being overtaken (and those who were about to be run into) were slowing down to allow the pass to take place. So maybe it´s just the style here. Still I was pooping my pants every time the guy overtook...
I could go on and on...but I won´t because I´m running out of time. Anyway, the journey actually took more like 5 hours and I literally just got to my hostel with minutes to spare before they closed reception. Do you know what though? I wouldn´t change it for the world. Truly it was the scariest and one of the most uncomfortable journeys of my life and next time, Í´ll be sure to check which bus it is before buying the ticket. But I survived and I experienced some great scenery and met some nice people on the route. I can look back and laugh now!
Now I´m staying in a really nice hostel but it has no internet connection and no way for me to wash my clothes. I´m considering moving hotels on that basis alone and it doesn´t help that when I arrived, they had no idea about my reservation. I´m really not sure what´s going on. Anyway, I´ll do a full write up on it (the hostel) when I´m properly connected again (this is coming to you from an internet cafe)
So, sorry if you don´t get any updates for a few days. I´ll try to make up for it when I´m back online. In the meantime, I´ll be chilling in VdL
Hasta luego
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anita
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Comments
God, Am I the only one who comments on your posts LOL .. I must get out more. Sounds crazy but I guess you nailed it on the head when you said you wouldn't have changed it for the world. How exciting! You were being so British clinging on to your seat for dear life. That made me laugh! It's trying to snow here whilst the sun is out. Bet you have forgotten what snow is like hehehe.. Stay safe. x