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Published: March 4th 2009
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So when we heard about La Ciudad Perdida Trek, people were saying very different things. Some said it was an easy stroll with not much at the end of it and others claimed they had enjoyed it more than any of the Inca trails in Peru.
We got a really good price, teamed up with John an English guy whom we met in Cartagena and who is as equally trapped in Taganga as we are, and set off for the 6 day trek not really sure what to expect. Our guide Archie did not look like a man who trekked for a living (being about 17 stone), however with legs that any athlete would wish for he appeared to know his stuff and turned out to be a hard task master with little sympathy for us whimpy tourists and our gripes.
Day 1 started with a 2 hour jeep ride up to the starting point, high up in the Colombian jungle on some distinctly rough roads/paths, a spot of lunch then a 3 hour walk through ice cold rivers ( which would become a main feature for pain on the trip) and up steep paths that wound through the
trees higher into the cloud forest. We arrived at our first camp tired but enthusiastic, with the beginings of some blisters but nothing to worry about just yet.
Day 2 followed a similar pattern, we were up at 6.30 for a 7am start so as to avoid the main heat of the day, and did around a 3-4 hour walk to our second camp. The scenery really was incredible and our photo´s don´t do justice to the sprawling mass and sheer density of the Jungle.
Day 3 began early once again, however it was the beginning of the hardest part of our hike. We hiked for about 5 hours on this day, and went to a different camp than we initially thought as our guide wanted to protect us from the vicious mosquitos that plagued the lost city and from the sheer amount of other groups that would be up there looking round. Our plan would be to go up there early on day 4 for a proper look around when it was quieter. This plan was a good one except for 2 main draw backs. Firstly, our new camp had 0 toilet facilities and Archie cheerily informed
us that we would need to be digging some holes and finding a secluded space to ensure any kind of privacy, and secondly day 4 would be a gruelling 10 hour walk that would push our entire group to the limits of sore feet and tired legs.
Day 4 we set off early for the lost city, and after an hours walk up the longest staircase the world has ever known ( hence the city stayed so lost) we finally arrived at our destination. The pain, and the sore, wet feet were totally justified as the views and surroundings were incredible and breathtaking. The place was also heavily surrounded by the Colombian military to protect the area from the FARC who had been known a few years back to kidnap tourists for a few weeks. The military were hilariously young boys with enormous assault rifles and grenade launchers, they were very amiable and some of the braver tourists who asked got pictures holding an array guns and posed for some pictures the Government surely wouldn´t want released on the internet.
After the lost city we set off for the longest walk ever, up some seriously steep hills and
clambering across rock faces with sheer drops below, to cap matters off we had to go past our camp as it was full and on to one a further hour away. By this time the group had turned and no-one was in the mood for any more (apart from Archie with his calls of ¨vamos chicos¨ to rally the troops!!) We arrived at our camp, had dinner and promptly went to bed at about 6.30 pm.
Day 5 was thankfully much easier, and because we had done so much the day before we in fact had less to do on this day, however we were totally broken by then, Julia and I had hideous sores and blisters from our hiking boots, one girl had a dodgy stomach and the rest had been broken from the sheer exertion. When we arrived at our base for the evening we were told that if we wanted we could go and view a secret cocaine factory in the jungle. We jumped at the opportunity to see something that is rarely ever seen by people, especially tourists.
Our guide for this was the amiable Andy who at 24 was a veteran of the
Coca trade having begun producing the Pasto at 14. He showed us the process step by step in almost a comical ´here´s one I made earlier´ Blue Peter style, and showed us all the ingredients used in the production. These included Petrol (lots of it), salt, bleach, iodine solution, water and caustic soda (drain cleaner to you and I). He told us that you needed 6 kg of leaves to produce 1kg of the paste which in turn was converted into 900g´s of 100% pure cocaine. However instead of him driving a Rolls Royce, he in fact made only around 300-400 dollars on this once he sold it on and after he had paid for all his equipment, the real money being made by those in the next stage of the process, the selling. It was a very interesting experience and certainly something that is a ´once in a lifetime´ thing.
Day 6 we completed our Trek and celebrated with a steak and plenty of beers, and the happy thought of not wearing walking boots for a very very long time. All in all La Ciudad Perdida was an excellent experience and something we are very glad we did,
but are also glad that we wont have to do it again.
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