Team Funky Bunch- anyone for a disco nap?

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South America: the food, the people, the music, the language, and the sheer size of the continent, when Charlotte and I merrily flew in from New Zealand (horrifically long flight and we managed to land before we had taken off… crazy!) we had no idea what to expect.

I write this sitting in the hostel in Cartagena, Colombia; a fairy tale city of romance, colonialism and sheer beauty. The weather is balmy and sweaty and my feet are aching from exploring the cobbled streets of the Historical districts of El Centro. We have been in South America for over a month now and so far have journeyed up through four countries. There have been beautiful landscapes, delicious meals, a few too many hours spent on coachs and many a laugh on the way. Two has also become four as we have welcomed Jo Payne and Francesca Athies on to our adventure- let the story begin…

Fresh from the crisp weather and beautiful scenery of New Zealand, Charlie and I flew into Santiago, Chile both slightly nervous yet excited of what to expect from the new section of our trip. We are both serious backpackers now, able to negotiate any crisis which may befall us; surely we would take Chile by storm? Santiago is a modern metropolis poised under snow tipped Andean peaks. Its ease to negotiate, green parks and amazing helados (ice creams… the one spanish Word i have learned!) made it a brilliant way to start our trip. Meeting up with the girls, we shared travel stories and planned a route round South America... so much to look forward to! We were also christened "Team Funky Bunch" by Phillipe, a german guy in our dorm... it seems to have stuck.

Next we journeyed to Valparaíso, a coastal town about an hour away. This, my favourite place in Chile, is considered the cultural capital and was made a UNESCO World Heritage site with due reason. We spent a day exploring the hills that frame the city and the beautiful murals which decorate the walls of the houses. The bohemian inside each of us was unleashed as we all started planning what colours to paint our respective houses when we return- parents watch out! The day had a alarming element however when we realised we were being followed by a dodgy looking individual. We had been told horrorstories of how innocent travellers had been robbed of their possesions so we were on our guard. A stand-off ensued… he stared a us… we stared back… all in varying stages of panic… he turned around a left. Hurrah!

Following a day of treking in the Parque Nacional Fray Jorge, a lush and foggy cloud forest and a trip to the Monumento Arqueologica Valle del Encanto (The Enchanted Valley) where we saw ancient petroglyphs, pictographs and ancient mortars, we journeyed further up Chile to the Atacama Desert, San Pedro de Atacama. A dusty touristy village where it is baking in the day and freezing at night, the main attractions are the geysers and star-watching. Geyser-watching was a magical geographical experience. Donning all the clothes we owned as it was -12C when we got picked up at 4am, we journeyed to the middle of the desert to see the thermal activity. Alter a breakfast of hot milk and boiled eggs, all cooked by the steam in the ground, we were taken to thermal springs. Warm was not quite the Word i would use but it was a exhilirating experience! Post a trip to a chilean village, llama kebabs (Fran) and goats cheese empanandas (Me) we made it back to our hostel. That night the girls went stargazing in the desert where they were spoken to by a hilarious Chilean/French husband and wife duo and taught about the beauty of the solar system with the aid of eight giant telescopes. Hot chocolate milk I also believe was a highlight!

We had now ticked off Chile, next stop Peru. Arequipa is Peru´s second largest city and we spent a few days there wandering in the sunshine. We had a BBQ on the rooftpop terrace of our hostel, met many fellow travellers and were cooked meals/woken up/generally entertained by Mickey A, the brother of the hostelowner. A highlight was the Monasterio Santa Catalina, a citadel within a city. It was founded in 1580 by a wealthy widow and was only forced open to the public in 1970. We then journeyed to Huacachina, a bizarre oasis found in the middle of sand dunes, set in the middle of a lagoon where we joined with two of Fran{s friends from University, Hannah and Rhys. After spending a couple of days lazing by the pool, cooking oursleves in the sun and catching up on diary-writing, we signed up for an afternoon of sandboarding! Strapping ourselves into a jeep, we rocketed up into the desert and then up and down sanddunes before stopping above a high Peak for some serious boarding. On a board made of questionable MDF, waxed up, we were taught to lay on it by our guide before being pushed off down the hill- brilliant fun! The dunes we boarded down got higher and higher and the brave girls we are, we managed them all! After watching a beautiful sunset we were strapped back in and cruised back down to the hostel. Dinner and a few drinks? Why not? Sadly we had no idea what was in store... The food arrived about an hour and half after we ordered it and unfortunately with a few too many “fucking Huacachinas” and “sex in the deserts” clouding our judgement, we wolfed it all down. The rest of the evening followed in a blur of salsa dancing, meeting fellow travellers, finding Money on the floor (50 soles! I was thrilled!), attempting to play DJ (the only thing i managed to get on was getting jiggy with it by will smith, tragic) breaking down locked Doors and a bit of nakedness. The next morning however, we realised, this was no normal hangover. This was food poisoning on an epic scale. Being the true travellers we are, we packed up, strapped on our backpacks and jumped on the bus to Pisco…

We spent the next week volunteering at Pisco Sin Fronteras. This is a non-profit organisation which started in August 2008 on the first year anniversary of the massive earthquake which devastated the city, destroying 80% of homes and killing around 600 people. This is a truly worthwhile cause and over the week we helped in a childrens centre, broke and removed the nails from a stack of pallets for firewood and houses and did a cement pour for a family home. This was one of the most challenging weeks we have had since we have been away. We arrived ill and the lack of sanitation did not hurry along our recovery... I looked up flights home I felt so ill one day! But that being said it was one of the most rewarding, seeing what a difference you can make to childrens lives and being part of a community all commited to change is a special and invigorating experience.

Lima was the next stop, the frenetic capital of Peru and we were all looking forward to bit of modernisation and a hot shower! We journeyed there with some friends we made in Pisco, Alex and Ben, and I shared a dorm with Matt and Robbie, a couple of brilliant american guys who had just started there travels. We were a merry band of eight exploring markets, a magical fountain park and the Monasterio de San Francisco, one of the best preserved of Limas early colonial churches. There are creepy underground catacombs which are the site of an estimated 7,000 burials... human bones galore! We were also taken to a lovely restaurant called Panchitas by Lindsey, a peacecore worker Robbie and Matt met on the plane. It is owned by a famous peruvian chef who created the menu based on traditional peruvian street food. It may have been slightly out of our budgets but after the horrors of Pisco we decided to treat ourselves to a bit of luxury...

After saying a sad goodbye to the boys, it was the four of us against the world again and we hopped on yet another bus to the seaside resort of Mancora. After walking for what felt like miles with increasingly heavy bags we found our hostel, settled in and wandered about the town. Mancora is rumored to have year-round sunshine but we found it pretty cloudy when we went. After a hectic few weeks it was nice place to re-group and sort out a plan for the next few weeks. We booked flights to colombia, planned the rest of trip (Bolivia, Argentina and Rio) and danced till 4am at a Full Moon Party... quite different from Thailand Charlie and I discovered!

Two months in South America have been brilliant, its different travelling in a four to a pair but still so much fun. We are still as thick as thieves and getting into mischief (dont panic parents, still being good girls!) Its strange to think we have been away four months now and that the seasons are changing in England... you almost expect the world to stop when you leave... well I do. Our tans are getting darker, our bags heavier (I dont know how Charlie carries hers... the girl is a machine!) but our spirits still soar... please dont let the 29th of July come too soon....

still rocking round the world
lots of latin loving
Hiral and Charlie xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

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