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Following our trusty guidebook, we headed to Valparaiso - "Chile´s most memorable city", where we got lost, followed by amorous exhibitionist dogs, and received hard, threatening stares from the local drunks, sailors and anti-gingerists.
Our Hostal had a great rooftop terrace with views of the bay, but charged nearly as much as the 5 star luxury place in Santiago.
Without giving Valpo much of a chance, we hightailed it up the coast in search of peace, quiet and pelicans...
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