Hello, again.
It’s been a long time since I’ve even thought about this site, let alone written anything - until I was reminded of it recently by a man called Mike from Swansea who’s bored with his job and prefers to read my stories.
So, I suppose you may or may not want to know what’s been
happening down here in Santiago, Chile for the last four months.
In October we went down south to visit
Puerto Varas, Puerto Montt, Isla de Chiloé and the a few other places and it was lovely all the two weeks long. Jessica had a few days’ work to get through which, in reality, took about 39 minutes of the two weeks. So, we were happy. And I was especially happy and content with the weather down south because it reminded me of home (believe it or not) with the silent drizzle, the clouds hanging heavy in the cold slate sky and the occasional boy racer flying past - sitting on two copies of the Chilean Yellow Pages and blasting out ‘Jenny from the block’. I thought to myself maybe the Chilean as well as British boy racers still don't realise that
everyone who witnesses their mothers' cars and Argos sound systems booming past thinks they are a tw*t.
And certainly not the 'coolest' or most attractive guy 'on the block'.
We came back to the big smog (that’s a pun on the big smoke) and I still didn’t have any work lined up but I did have an interview with an English language institute.
Santiago is a tough, tough place to live.
It’s dawned on me after these few months that there is a reason why the people who dwell in this city are so stressed, so aggressive, so red in the face. That reason(s) is the noise, the smog, the traffic, the worst public transportation system in the world other than that of Port Talbot, the threat of football hooligans on the subway or Jennifer Lopez on the telly, the constant knocking down of classical architecture and the throwing up of plasterboard apartments for young, indebted professionals. As I sit here thinking of the next line to write there is a pneumatic drill ripping up the pavement outside and two young punks in the apartment above playing Michael Jackson's 'Bad' at almost full volume. So, it’s not always
Swans in ChileI resisted the temptation to put my hand under it so it would appear to be balancing on my palm. I try not to deal in clichés if I can help it.
a bed of the clichéd roses like people think. Sometimes it is, but usually you’ll wake up with a thorn in your arse.
I got a job as an English teacher and I got engaged.
There have been some interesting moments with the students who have included airline pilots, retired women, TV producers, spoilt brats, Newsreaders, engineers and doctors. Here's one or two...
During a class about historical Chilean figures I asked a forty-year-old telecommunications engineer who his hero was, dead or alive. The others students looked at him in anticipation. I did, too. He rubbed his goatee beard, looked at the ceiling deep in thought and replied with a poker-straight face, ‘My hero? Hmmm… Well… I think… maybe it is Batma- … no, no…it has to be Spiderman.’
During a class about weather conditions and vocabulary associated with it I had two students. One a talkative young woman who was a doctor and spoke good English, the other a young Chilean man who spoke well but lacked confidence and was a tad shy when there were other students present. Just after I finished explaining the difference between ‘rainy’ and ‘raining’, the young man overcame
Isla de ChiloéThis place is Ireland and Wales all over, except that they don't play much rugby and speak in musical tones here.
his personal barrier and felt the need to ask, ‘excuse me, but how do you spell ‘asshole’?’ On a positive note,
it’s been a great experience which I have enjoyed and am enjoying right now. I have learned more about English grammar and Chilean culture in the last three months than I have in the last 29 years of my life. I look at it as a grammar apprenticeship.
Christmas came and went and we had a lovely time, but it’s really not the same out here. They put their decorations up a few days before the event - not in September like in Swansea. Almost nobody sends cards to each other because it's not their tradition. And the raging heat replaces the black, bone-freezing cold of back home. But I really did miss it all - the coziness of December evening, the twinkling lights as wrapped up shoppers finish their lists on a Thursday night in Oxford Street, the huge turkey, the boiled carrots, the stuffing, the Boxing Day salads with dry-as-a-bone turkey leftovers, the roasted peanuts and empty cans of Fosters and Carling in the bin - or Stella Artois if you’ve got money. But
we did have a lovely time out here with Jessica's family and for New Year we spent three days at the beach, got a sun tan and watched the famous fireworks displays at Valparaiso and all along the coast.
Did I mention I was getting married?
Well yes, late March is when it all happens (legally speaking 23rd of February too!). As those of you who have exchanged the rings will know, this is a stressful time right now where our daily lives are a sparkling spanish whirlwind of phone calls, cakes, invitations, suits, people fishing for invites and general everyday problems
See you all soon,
Jamie
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i've really enjoyed your journals, especially the ones from your return to chile (i read your original jounal entereries on chile long ago). i'm a chilean who's grown up in the US and may at some point return to chile with my gringa woman so it's been very eye opening to read your attempts at landing a job (my woman is the career-person in our relationship). i'm an interpreter (span-eng) so i reckon i'd be looking for work in a similar field if and when i ever live in santiago again (my family left before i turned 2, i'm 32 now). there's another young man from new zealand whose blog i read this week who's almost in the same boat as you. anyway, keep your chin up. congratulations on your engagement and upcoming wedding. you're "part of the chilean family" now ;) . i look forward to reading more updates on your life in the future. like the chilean government propaganda says, "piensa positivo" (thumbs up). cheers!
As always, a well written piece. With your appreciation for the beers, perhaps a home-brewing operation should be considered? I have been brewing for some time now and aside from some residual kidney issues because of an early bout wtih E-Coli O157:H7, things are great. My Hefeweizen is fantastic.
Congrats on the engagement thing. I appreciate your take on the experiences with all the preparations; I know first hand as I am all engaged to tie the knot. I will be getting married on 25 May in Edinburgh, Scotland. Whisky tasting two days prior - marathon participation the morning of and wedding reception that evening --- perfect! Hope all continues well - Your Guatemalean roommate.
Dave.
lo mate ,nice to hear from you( been a long time )i"ve just read you"re getting married nice one ( can"t believe quiet jamie from the gear lab is getting hitched) all the best to you both. give me a ring when you get back to wales we can go out for a pint. mike
Hola Jamie, estuve mirando tu blog ahora porque quiero irme a Colombia en junio. Yo estuve en Las saltos de Petrohue tambien, y en las islas de Chiloe, y por alla- tengo muy buenas recuerdos. Y es verdad que llueve como que si fuera Irlanda o Galles!
Nice one on getting engaged- that's not a very long engagement is it? Hope you don't spend the rest of your life in Santiago though- I was there too and ended up in Valparaiso around New Year too! The noise and smog got to me in Santiago...
Any recommendations for me in Colombia (before I trawl through all your blogs trying to find Colombia)?
Que tengas buenas classes de ingles,
Helen
I am quite surprized to see you say Santiago has the worst public transportaion system... I found the Metro effecient and clean and the bus system, while crazy and crowed while I was living there, was quite thorough as far as route. Perhaps I am comparing this to a city completely lacking in public transportation, but I do not know how you can say it is the worst. Very sorry you have not enjoyed your time in CHile. I fell in love with it and am in fact returning this Christmas to show my boyfriend around. Take care
Yes, Kari, it is really bad...
Okay, I was referring specifically to the Transantiago and maybe exaggerating a little but just ask Chilenos here about the Transantiago - it's a horrble, horrible way to travel... they have been let down badly by the Gov and the older system was infinitely better.. (routes, efficiency, cost, comfort - albeit with smog-spewing buses) and the knock on effect has been that now the Metro is saturated at most hours. People squeezing in like sardines...
Nowhere in the article did I say that I don't like Chile, but I will say that Santiago is a very unpleasant place to live - quality of life is inexistent. Its problems are deep and long... People don't jokingly call it Santiasco for nothing.
Jamie
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