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Published: January 28th 2007
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HURRAH!!!!!!!! When all hope seemed lost, we somehow wangled a last minute cancellation on the Navimag for 2 to set sail through the Chilean fjords from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt on the 9th Feb. Can´t tell you how chuffed we are! Watch this space for a future Navimag captain´s log.
When we left yas last time we were heading to the little known (and little visited!) Puerto San Julian. After recovering from initial shock at the completely deserted but clearly once very grand ex-wool town we really warmed to the place. Natalie, the local marine biologist, Captain Fernando and Mapu the crazy sea-lovin hound took us on a jaunt around the bay to see (more) penguins, Commerson´s dolphins and lots of sea birds.
Hot tips from Natalie included best coffee in town from local petrol garage, 1 restaurant open, ice-cream parlour and replica of Magellan´s ship (Spanish bloke that landed in 1520 on his way round the world). Our hostel was on the sea front and was delightful and gave easy access to the massive Falkland Island´s (Malvinas) war memorial. More to come on this controversial topic...
After unexpectedly enjoyable couple of days, we set off for
Resting at Cerro Torre
Look at the size of that thing. the mountains - Rob was yearning for them after the flatness of the Patagonian Steppe.
Rio Gallegos then onto El Calafate and an uncomfortable night in bus station being continually prodded by local police (you could sleep as long as you didn´t look as tho you were!). Caught early morning bus to El Chalten (hot destination tip from Argentinian friends). WHAT A SPOT!!!! It was all worth it. Ended up staying for a week in Argentinian´s youngest frontier town, surrounded by mountains and glaciers. Our pics won´t do it justice ...
Highlights included glacier trekking, back country back-packing for 3 days, electrical storn (that Rob slept through), stunning views of Fitzroy and Cerro Torre mountains (over 10,000 ft - cor blimey), condors galore and great cafes/chocolaterias. Thanks to you all for your birthday well wishes. On Rob's b'day we had a knackering day of full-on walking/scrambling/river-crossing, after which we found a refugio to camp at deep in the mountains. It was idyllic and rustic. Children in berets, kittens chomping on carcasses in kitchen, climbers awaiting perfect weather, and real life gauchos. We even got a slap up meal and wine.
To round it all off, El Chalten
Glacier Trekking
Gloriously otherworldly experience on Glacier Viedma skies produced an amazing view of a bright comet with a huge blazing tail. Finally dragged ourselves away to head south to Chile.
Border crossing uneventful, apart from large official sign proclaiming Argentine ownership of the Malvinas (that´s Falkland Islands to us!). I dared Rob to take a pic but then thought better of it. They just won´t let it lie ...
First impressions of Chileans is that they are much more courteous drivers, they eat fish and it´s a tad more expensive here. Just when we were getting our heads around Latin American Spanish, it all sounds completely different again here. Rob´s a little chilly in Chile - he´s just been scalped in a local barbers (numero 3 all over).
Spent a couple of days in Puerto Natales where we spent a day cycling out to a local viewpoint (Mirador Dorotea) where we had an astonishing close-up view of condor with a 3m wingspan. Thought he had his eye on us for lunch. After walk had tea and cake with local farmer. Meadows full of scented flowers ... delightful. We´ll be returning to here in a week or so to set sail on the Navimag.
Sunrise on Fitzroy
6am on Rob's birthday, the view from our backcountry campsite. Decided to go even further south (cos Rob´s dead excited about that sort of geographical stuff). We're in Punta Arenas at the mo, hiring a car tomorrow and heading towards Tierra del Fuego for end of the world vistas and camping. Still not that cold or windy here ... don´t know what all the fuss is about really. The wildlife of the region continues to amaze and, at times, confuse (see photos).
Once again muchas gracias for all your comments and messages ... we love reading them and always look forward to hearing what you're all upto.
Lots of Patagonian passion to y'all.
Nadine and Rob xxx
ps Tim - yes you can borrow MY stapler
pps Jenny - does this mean you are finally going to buy some new walking boots?
ppps To anyone who's interested - latest rhyming occupation ... a person who maintains the immaculate appearance of South American big cats ... a puma groomer. Ha ha.
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juan
non-member comment
chilean drivers
i think i have to agree about chilean drivers being more courteous. argentine drivers tend to be very agressive behind the wheel. chileans can be too, but to a lesser extent, and chileans are better about obeying traffic laws. if you step up to a crosswalk in any chilean city, drivers (even in santiago) will come to a complete stop and let you cross. try that in argentina and you go SPLAT! cheers!