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Easter Island, Isla de Pascua, Rapa Nui.
It is impossible to be unaware of the existence of strange stone sculptures. But to actually have the opportunity to be there, stand next to the results of this long gone civilisations labours, and wonder WHY, was one of Arlenes great desires.
And so we did.
Easter Islands sheer isolation is only partly mitigated with the advent of air travel. To get here, we had a small 3 day transition in Tahiti, and after another 5 hours of flying, we were exploring the small town of Hanga Roa.
Observations:
Lots of dogs running around
One dog not moving at all
Mother with two children between her knees on the motor scooter (and no, Britney, the paparatzi didnt take any notice at all)
4 men in a sedan with a load of wood on the roof. One was hanging out the back window holding the wood on.
A tractor with one front wheel amputated limping along the road.
Lots of dirty car smoke
Lots of domestic building in progress
Banking Chilean style. 1 hour to get some money changed, with people working their way around the queue with not an eyelid flinched
by the conservatives (apart from ours).
Before we inevitably discuss Moai (the statues), the impression is of a little pacific Island with a super rugged and rocky coastline eeking out a living from a bit of farming, fishing, and handicrafts, and turbo charged with heaps of tourism which fortunately is NOT done in a bling kind of way. It is undeniably rough around the edges (and also in the middle).
It is also a fusion of cultures - obviously Spanish speaking following annexation by Chile, but also the gleam of the local indiginous language on occasion which is working on revival. Sorry to say, we were so enthralled with putting our fledgling Spanish to its first test that the Ia Oranas were thoroughly subjugated by the Holas (again).
So. Moai! Wow. Unbelievable. What can you say? A pleasant, apparently trouble free culture, arrived by sailing dinghy from Polynesia about the same time NZ was colonised by the Moari. Run by a king who was always chosen from only one of the 8(?) tribes which were hierarchical. They kept themselves remarkably busy by digging enormous stone statues out of one location on the Island, and hauling them many
kms to stone platforms called Ahu. While they were a form of ancestor recognition, the Moai and Ahu also formed a prime part of the village atmosphere and facilities, including dance/meeting spaces, boat ramps and burial areas. They range from small to, well, 80 tonnes or so.
Small problem - resources. They ran out of trees, which were the heating, cooking, Moai carrying tools. Like any society faced with such problems, they started fighting over what was left. And sure enough, pet carving hobbies didnt get a look in from there on.
A change of government was enacted, but the election consisted of the candidates clambering down enormous cliffs, swimming over to a remote Island and snatching the first of the eggs laid by nesting birds. First back to cross the line was entitled Birdman, and was worshipped with governmental control and food. Perhaps not the best plan.
So the Spanish arrived to a small population of seriously subsistent people, with no idea how these stone statues appeared, and were now more superstitiously reverred.
As happens, over the next 50 years had a poor effect on these people. The reports from explorers increasingly reported the Moai
being knocked over in the face down position. Maybe the ancestor worship hadnt saved them from the visitors, so they did them in?
Restoration has been carefully done some areas, leaving us to see the state of demise of these soft volcanic rock marvels (usually) face down in the harsh coastal environment.
So what did we get up to?
Rode the ute tray from the airport to our campground. Nice. We didnt expect to be met at all.
Cycled a long day on the South Coast to see many mostly damaged ahu and moai.
Visited the Quarry site where they were chiselled out. FANTASTIC. Some still embedded as they down-tooled.
Walked up the near volcano to the ceremonial village of the birdman rites (Rano Kau). Accompanied for 8kms by local dog. Got blown by Wellington style winds on the crater edge where the world just ends. Magic spot. Got drenched walking back down. Promptly moved from tent to cabin to shower, dry, and catch up on lots of lost sleep.
Joined Team Slovakia (Eva and Marian) to drive some wopping puddles in a 4wd jeep.
Hit the Birdman crater at sunrise on the last day to be dazzled
by the beauty of the place.
Wow.
Sorry this is long, but it is impossible to go there and be unimpressed.
Adios, la Isla de Pascua. Magnifico.
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