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Published: January 16th 2012
Today was a sleep in day; and that surprisingly we did! After a lazy breakfast where the hotel had left each of us an individual plate of chocolate and cookies for New Years, we decided to go for a hike to the window caves I had read about.
As I mentioned, getting lost on Easter Island is virtually impossible, however it is still a bit unnerving not knowing where you are going exactly; other than 'north'. Freida had offered to bring me a map, but we were not seeing him until the afternoon and we both wanted to do the caves that morning, so off we went, 'that way'.
It was a quiet morning, sun shining and of course no shade (remember, no trees.....) so we were both heating up, even with my 55 block and my UVF shirts I always wear. The hike was peaceful and quite beautiful as we followed the coastline, as we were looking for caves that had 'windows' to view the ocean from. Along the way we ran into a South African Gentleman who had been traveling for 3 months already and had one more to go; this was his second time walking up
Horse Ranches
No fences on islandthis part of the island and he directed us to the cave and fortunately the Island does have major sites marked, with small signage (if you are looking carefully).
We found the lookout, soaked up the view and then wandered around the area trying to find the caves. Couldn't find them. We had pretty much given up hope and were wandering back towards the path when I spotted a hole in the ground (unmarked) and guessed that was the entrance. With a brave smile I looked at Michele and said "You go first!" We both had our headlamps, and to my dismay I discovered the batteries were running low (must have been from all the wooping up the previous night), but the entrance was small, dank and dark (as caves are) but I followed the sound of Michele's voice, after hitting my head on a ceiling overhang. (only me)
I was getting quite creeped out and my breathing was quickening as I don't really care for dark small places (that's where all the icky bugs live you know) but after all, I was the one who wanted to do this. Finally it started to open up and we
could stand up and just mutter WOW. 2 nature made picture frames highlighted the rugged coastline of this beautiful island were in front of us and I was in awe. It was so beautiful, so peaceful, so cool I could have sat there all day. If I had my lunch:-) After a rest, we headed back, and in true Ned fashion, I hit my head, again, on the same overhang. I heart being me!
Headed back to town as we wanted to grab lunch and a shower before meeting up with Freida for our Birdman tour; and to say we were dirty is an understatement. I"m impressed the restaurant even served us, it's so dry on the hike that we were both covered in dirt, add a bit of sweat and it makes a lovely mud layer. Who needs sunblock?
Our afternoon tour with Freida was to see the Orongo area, the southwestern tip of the Island and learn about the Birdman Cult. I'd never heard of it before; so it was a very interesting afternoon. In a Ned Nutshell: it's all about an annual rugged race to get to this little island off Motu Nui to be
the first person to get the first egg of the season from a Sooty Tern bird, and bring it back to the village and become "da man"!
Once you see the obstacle course they had to cover to get there, you really become impressed with how important this race was, and of course, many perished in their attempts. Ah, the joys of testosterone, one of the things that doesn't change over the centuries!
There were still the stone houses (partially rebuilt) and some really cool hieroglyphics as well, plus again stunning views of the other crater on the Island and the ocean. It truly is a bit disconcerting looking out as far as the eye can see and not only seeing nothing, but *knowing* there is nothing for over 4,000 km. Belly Button of the Earth was making more and more sense to me.
Freida took us to a few more lookouts and some large caves, with more hieroglyphics, completing all the highlights of the Island. It was a great afternoon, but both Michele and I were looking forward to a full day to ourselves to relax, not tour, not learn, and just be.
We tried
Motu Nui
The island Birdman swam to out the stone oven pizza place around the corner from our hotel and it was beyond delicious. The pizza dough was fresh made (you could so tell) and you could choose your own ingredients. I mistook red pepper for hot pepper in my fuzzy Spanish and almost set my mouth on fire, but beyond that it was heavenly. One of the best pizzas I have ever had. Period.
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