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Published: October 12th 2007
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Rio Hostel
A view of the Hostel from the cobbled-sone street, about 60feet below it. Fri 12th Oct:
The Candomble experience I went to on Wednesday night was very strange. It was held in a specially built hall on the outskirts of the city. The inside was ornately decorated with a wooden structure in the centre with wooden statues inside it. All participants were dreseed up for the occasion; the males were one side of the room and females on the other. The women were dressed mainly in white hooped dresses and also had finely laced shawls. The ceremony went on for three and a half hours and was composed of drum beating, chanting and fireworks. A guide gave us the background to this Afro-Brazilian Religion, which was brought across by the African slaves who practised it in secret for many years, as it was banned by the Portugese. During the ceremony some of the female participants who danced continually around the central wooden structure went into a trance and fitted. There were "mentors" on hand to support them or take them to another room to recover. In summary, my best description of it would be an African witchcraft ceremony in a modern setting tailored to a religious cult. Yet another late night..........
Thursday morning
View over Rio from balcony of Hostel
Stunning panoramic views from the balcony of the hostel. brought some heavy rain in Salvador, so the raincape was needed. As my flight for Friday was an early one I made a phone booking to a pousada closer to the airport - it's a long journey from my present pousada to the airport outside Salvador. Just after getting some money fro an ATM I was accosted by a "coke girl" (high on crack cocaine); she was demanding money and whatever I said would not shake her off. I retreated to a nearby barbers shop thinking she would go away ( I needed a haircut anyway), but she followed me in and told the barber (in Portugese) that she was my guide. She had fairly fluent English and her demands now became threats that I would not leave the city alive if she didn't get what she wanted - the barber didn´t understand English. The situation deteriorated to the extent that I left the chair where I was having my hair cut and went out to find the nearest police (they weren´t far away). She gave the police the same story that she told to the barber with a twist that I was refusing to pay her fee. Fortunately they
The Bondhino (Tram)
The tram passes just below the Hostel and takes you up the hill and around the St Teresa area. saw through her and escorted her away. I went back and got the rest of my haircut ( I now feel like a shorn sheep!), but was very glad to escape a potentially worse situation.
My new lodgings were near Itapau beach, so settled in and headed straight for the beach and a welcome swim. 'Was somewhat sad to leave Salvador - a buzzing city with a lot of character, history and music. Yes, it also attracts some unwelcome elements because of the many tourists, but the does not detract from the city itself, and the tourist police are doing a good job in making it safer.
After a restless Thursday night, made an early (4.40) start for the airport. However, when I got there the plane was postponed to 7:50. A good flight across large stretches of baked barren land before approaching the lush green forested lands aroung Rio. The Tourist Information Centre at Rio Airport was closed so just phoned the central hostel to make a booking, no problems. Got a bus and taxi to it - an amazing location just off the centre of the city in the Bohemian St Teresa area; up a steep cobble-stoned
View of Sugar Loaf Mountain
From the top of the hill at St Teresa you have spectcular panoramic views of teh city, Bay and the mountain. hill, complete with tram lines, and then 64 steps further to the hostel entrance. However, well worth it - spectacular panoramic views with good amenities (pool, internet access, laundry etc.); the only downside is that I´m sharing a dormitory room with seven others. It does look a lot better than some of the budget hotels I´ve stayed in so far. The people here are very friendly, helpful and sociable - most are younger than Kathryn and Robert!
Settled in and explored the local vicinity, caught the tram further up the hill for more spectacular view of the bay, the Sugar Loaf Mountain and the city. (see photos). Had a local Brazilian dish of dried meat, beans, rice, pumpkin and spinach. Tasted nice!
I´m told that Friday night is Samba and party night in Lapa, which is only a few minutes walk away. So after a dip in the pool and freshen up I may venture out.
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