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Published: September 24th 2009
So we arrive in Rio after the 6 hour bus journey which wasn't bad at all...infact we drove through some wonderful scenery.
At the bus station we went to get a taxi however one company refused to take us as we didn't have an address of where we needed to go, just a general area (Botafogo).
Luckily another company understood English so we could explain we're heading to an area to find a hostel...didn't realise that would be problem. The driver was desperately trying to pursuede us against going there as it was more for locals and not many hostels around (he apparently didn't know of 1)... he kept trying to get us to go to one in Copacabana, we reckon he was on commission or something. We stuck to our guns though!
When the guy dropped us off in the middle of Botafoga (recommended to us by Ben who works at STA and has been here before) we had no idea where to go and we realised we've been placed right in the centre of a residential area and we stood out like true GRINGOS!! So rather then hang around we kept walking and came across somewhere which sold a
map. Still didn't help us as we didn't know the address of any hostels! At this point we're starting to really kick ourselves for not at least writing down 1 address but when we were looking online there looked like there were loads scattered everywhere...we didn't expect to have any problem. In the end we're just walking and walking...strongly considering jumping in another taxi to a more tourist area when we find an internet cafe. It's surrounded by locals who all just stare at us but by this point we're too hot and bothered to care so just go straight in. The owner spoke a little English and Rick was able to explain we're trying to find a hostel (we knew the name of one at least) and thankfully he knew where it was!! We weren't far away at all but it was hidden away, I doubt we'd have found it without directions. Nevermind...was a lesson learnt!
We looked in 3 hostels and decided on SUN RIO HOSTEL (Praia de Botafogo 462, casa 5, Rio de Janeiro), after some bargaining. We're sleeping on bunk beds again, our room sleeps 5 but we're the only ones at the moment which
is nice so we've got a bit of privacy. The woman who owns it is really friendly. Breakfast is included and she's recommended a few restaurants close by to try out. One is an all you can eat BBQ round the corner.
We end up having dinner in a place at the top of the nearby Botafogo Shopping Mall as it has great views across the city. We found this place which was basically their idea of fast food but it was Steak, Chips, Rice and Salad all for R$10 (3 pounds)- bargain! After dinner we found a bar nearby full of the locals which we thought was a good sign and relaxed watching the football - happy to be in Rio!
On the way home Lizzy spontaneously decided to dye her hair dark brown partly as the sun had made it a funny colour and also to fit in more with the locals! We laughed back at the hostel as it felt like something from Bourne Identity as it we're trying to change our identities! (It was funny at the time...) 😊
The next morning (16th Sept) we headed straight to Copacabana to check out the
beach and it was everything we imagined and more. Really was beautiful.... we didn't realise quite how big the beaches were - so much white sand! There weren't many people around and after a while we couldn't resist the temptation any longer and dived into the waves (which were huge!). So much fun.
We laid on the beach for a while trying to soak it all in as much as possible...until lunch! We hopped on one of the minibuses to the neighbouring beach of Ipanema. We had lunch in a place called 'Informal' and had a mixed meat platter to share for R$35 which was really good value. Lizzy couldn't even finish it all!
After lunch we walked to 'Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas' which is basically a huge lake. We walked round it towards Leblon (posh area of Rio). By now our feet are killing us and we're still got sand everywhere which isn't comfortable so we decide to head back to the hostel to shower. After chilling at the hostel we checked out the nightlife at Lapa (recommended by a few people) which had bars/samba clubs/rock bars...everything. The bus journey there was interesting though as we've got no idea
when to get off...we ended up getting off the bus too late and end up in 'Centro' - an area where everyone advises you not to go at night! To save messing around we jump in a taxi to Lapa as there were a few people staring/heading towards us and we didn't fancy hanging around.
The next morning we went to Centro to check out what the shops were like. It was busy and we had a beer outside this plaza infront of the museum. Our portuguese was coming on nicely...ish (we could order beers at least). Looked round a market afterwards and Lizzy made a purchase of a leather bag so she was happy!
Rick had read up on a place called Santa Teresa which was more of old Rio with cobbled streets and windy roads. Took us a while to find the tram to take us there but we were pleased when we did...it was good to try the different transport. It only cost 20p to get there. Once in Santa Teresa we looked in Laurinda Santas Lobo, The park of the ruins which was interesting. Had a great view of the city. Walking around the streets
we saw some brilliant grafitti, loads of little art shops, it was a pretty area.
Day 12 - Friday 18th... busy day planned as it was meant to be sunny/clear view we took the opportunity to see Christ the Redeemer on top of Corcovado. Lots of people around but the views were amazing. After the visit there we headed to the beach to soak up the sun for the rest of the afternoon. In the evening we headed back to Lapa for drinks and some Samba. As it was Friday night the streets were filled with poeple spilling out of the bars. Beers, cocktails and food were being sold in the street and the area was like 1 big party. We saw some live music and watched the dancing in this club called ¨Democraticus¨ which the guide book deemed as the quintessential Samba club to visit. It was brilliant...these Brazilians really can move!
Saturday 19th - Had lunch one of the famous 'kilogram' buffets where they literally weigh your plate and charge you accordingly. The food was delicious. It was an overcast day but it didn't stop the locals from piling onto the beach. We hired a couple
Cool grafitti
At Santa Teresaof deckchairs and sat on the beach dozing off...
In the evening Lizzy found out about a Samba School which had their rehersals for the carnival in February, so we had dinner in a local restaurant in Botafogo and got a taxi there. The school was called 'Sangeiro Samba School'. We thought we were about an hour late but in the end we were half an hour early! The street outside was filled with locals drinking/eating/dancing. We noticed how there were people of all ages here ranging from little children to the grandparents and you could feel a real community spirit. We were worried at first about getting involved in it all but everyone was so friendly. They just wanted to enjoy their night and really party...these guys certainly know how to party! Inside the place was huge! Red and white everywhere... the dancing was incredible...we'd never seen people shake their hips so much, men and women! Awesome night....
Next day...Sunday 20th...hungover was the word for today! Didn't get out of bed until about 1pm and even then couldn't face doing much. In the evening we had tickets booked to go to a football game at the Maracana stadium
which we were both excited about!
We saw Flamengo play Coritiba. There were roughly 45,000 fans there, and out of that maybe 100 Coritiba supporters. There were samba drums, trumpets, trombones, flags and flares. They had 5 or 6 songs, with actions, that everyone knew and they were all giving it some. All this before anyone had even seen a ball let alone kicked one. The game kicked off and there was a lot of skill being shown but the football wasn't flowing. About 30 mins in and Flamengo get a freekick just outside the area, although most of the crowd believed it was a penalty. Petkovic takes it beautifully, swinging it up and over the wall into the top left corner. The crowd went mental! Flares and drums, singing and dancing, most people are standing on the seats by now, so we join in as well. Second half, and Flamengo start as they finished the first half. A long ball is hoisted behind the defense and Flamengo's main striker, number 10, Adriano (yes, the one you are thinking of, former Inter player) runs onto it, and with only the keeper to beat, chips the ball exquisitly, so it
Caipirinha!
The local firewater just shaves the crossbar as it goes in. This all happens at the end we are closest to and he runs to our corner to celebrate. Now the crowd are going ballistic. The entire second half was watch whilst standing on the seat as everyone else was, this was the only way to see any football. It gets to the final moments of the game and another Adriano attack comes off the keeper to Williams, who was running in from midfield. He hits it at the edge of the area like a thunderbolt, diagnally across the goal and into the top left corner. We couldn't even hear the final whistle for all the celebrations. Excellent night.
We also met some people from New Zealand and we exchanged email addresses and they've said for us to contact them once we arrive which was good.
Day 15 - 21st
Weather wasn't meant to be great so ruled out going to beach and all the museums were closed on Mondays (much to Rick's delight) so we ended up visiting Parque Nacional da Tijuca, which is a protected Atlantic rainforest. By the time we got there it was raining but we didn't let
it spoil the day. Saw a beautiful waterfull and did a hike up to Alto Da Banderro which was about 550 metres high. As it was so cloudy we didn't get to experience the great views but we were glad we did it. The way down was a bit more difficult as it was really slippery by this point..we stumble upon a huge worm which at first glance we were worried was a snake!!
By the time we were back in Botafogo it was pouring and we were soaked through to the bone. Lizzy's waterproof jacket didn't seem to handle 4 hours of constant rain so all her clothes were soaked as well. Took us ages to warm up again!!
Day 16 - 22nd
In the morning the weather was still a little drizzly but after lunch it cleared up. We took a stroll along Botafogo beach, which is just over the road from the hostel. It has a wonderful view of Sugar Loaf mountain (Pao de Açucar). At around 4pm we decided to take the cable car up to the top. When we were at the summit the sun was beginning to set. We were able to watch
Street party
outside Samba School the whole of Rio light up as the sun dropped behind the Christ the Redeemer (Cristo Redentor). In the evening we went to an all-you-can-eat pizza restaurant for R$14 each, which was awesome. Waiters would sporadically arrive with freshly made pizzas of different varieties and offer a slice. They even had dessert pizzas which made Lizzy´s jaw drop and eyes bulge out. After consuming our bodyweights in pizza, we jumped on a bus to Copacabana to check out a recommended drinking hole called ¨Bip Bip¨. It was the smallest place you could imagine, you had to help yourself to the drinks at the bar (in the fridge), that was if you could get past the 8 piece band playing inside. The group consisted of 2 flutes, 2 acoustic guitars, 2 ukuleles, a tamborine and some wooden box which made a clicking sound. The music was excellent and to acknowledge this the onlookers had to click their fingers as clapping was not permitted.
Day 17 - 23rd
We started the day by jumping on the metro to Catete to visit the ¨Museu da República/Palácio do Catete¨. It was interesting to learn a bit aboput the political history of Brazil. In
the main bedroom of the Palace president Getúlio Vargas shot himself in the heart when asked to step down after over 20 years of influence. The room has been preserved as it was in 1954, complete with his pyjama top including the bullet hole and the gun he used.
In the afternoon we walked around the botanical gardens, where there are 5000 species of plant life. There was a sign saying beware of the snakes as you walked in. There was a bat cave and aquarium.
After relaxing back at the hostel in the evening, we ventured out again to the rich part of town, Leblon. We found some cool bars and restaurants. One bar brewed it´s own beer and claimed that this was available in most good pubs in England.... news to us!
Day 18 - 24th
All packed up and ready to go to Ilha Grande tomorrow. We will be there until Monday when we will be moving on to Paraty...
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jane
non-member comment
Rio
Amazing photos, loved reading the blog, keep it up.. brilliant, love to you both, take care, have fun at Ilha Grande xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx