On the trail for black gold and following in Jack, Hurley and Sawyers footsteps to "The Island"

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The intrepid adventurers turn their backs on civilisation and head to the hills in search of the rumoured "black gold" before returning to the shore to discover what exactly island life is all about. (And did LOST really make any sense whatsoever?)



After spending near enough a week in Rio we decided to head north to Ouro Preto (Portuguese for Black Gold, so named after the rock that the gold was encased in). I will admit that I´d never heard of it until reading the guidebook. The overnight bus journey was slightly grim, although Ellie didn´t seem that bothered, and I was pretty sleep deprived on arrival. It was cold too, apparently winter does that here in Brazil too, that was a surprise. So we wandered about the deserted town at 6am, which was creepy as literally nobody else was to be seen. The streets are all cobbled, the buildings white washed with yellow tiled roofs and green doors. The town square is wonderfully hemmed in by the Museum and Town hall with a huge monument of Tiradentes in the middle. The square slopes down to the middle and the major streets cascade and meander through the town from here. We just went exploring, trying the coffee (not good) and the food (very tasty) and ambled through the park...up hill. That´s the thing will OP because of it´s location and layout you invariably end up walking up lots of hills, and it feels like you walk down disproportionately fewer!

OP is located up in the mountains of Minas Gerais and is a quaint town with around 12 chapels liberally scattered across the undulations. Some were designed and build by an architect/scupture who apparently had leprosy and lost his hands, which apprently are essential in his line of work. The churches were quite interesting and had some intricate masonry and capentry going on, however they can be a bit decrepid and gloomy, some are in better condition than others. I guess they´re all the more impressive considerin the guy had no hands, I´m not sure what I could achieve with no hands...this blog would be a bugger to write for a start.

We got a bit "churched" out and decided to look for the mines that the town was famous for. We found one, not the one we were looking for, we just got lost and found one of the numerous mines that litter the town. I forget he name of this one but it was a very ghastly and interesting trip through Brazilian mining history! Our guide was called David and the only one who could speak English (it´s not geared up for Gringo tourism here), which he taught himself by watching Youtube! The accessible part of the mine was only 100m or so but the histroy lesson was worth the BR$15 entry fee. I won´t spoil it for you (but if you´re interested ask me and I´ll fill in the gaps) but suffice to say that I am so glad I wasn´t a slave working in the mines here!

OP is off the "Gringo Trail" here, most Europeans we have met have never heard of it, but it is recommended, just don´t stay in the Hostel International place here, it was not a great place and expensive. Our room was ridiculous, we couldn´t open the door fully because of the bed´s position, the staff weren´t particularly friendly and they charged you for every little extra! However, we did meet a great guy called Luis who is an amateur photographer, hates football and doesn´t eat meat, yet assured us he was a Brazilian male. Luis stated that his English was poor, but he was fluent! We went for beers (they have a beer and wine combo here which was truly fantastic) and learnt about Brazilian architecture, the language (both still hopeless) and why football is "rubbish!"

As Ellie and I are pretty much just making it up as we go along, we had no plan for the days after leaving OP. We had discussed going to a national park or Ihla Grande but hadn´t settled on anything. After the worst bus journey back from OP to Rio (bumpy, light and no sleep was possible) we jumped on the first bus going from the bus station. Luckily this was going to Ihla Grand and we were on our way and by lunch time we chilling with beer on the beach. As it´s the low season we were confident that we could just walk into a Poussada (guest house) and get a deal; we got a great deal including the best breakfast. I´ll detour to the food for one moment. Breakfast in Brazil ubiquitously consists of coffee (inconsistent), fruit, break, ham cheese and cake, yes, cake! Here we had the added luxury of 4 homemade fruit smoothies, two cakes, watermelon, papaya, oranges, jams, toast, and hot chocoalte. I´d have paid the BR$80 just for the breakfast!

Ihla Grande is mostly a nature reserve but there are beaches of exquisit beauty all over the island. The main town has no ATMs, no roads and no cars. It´s so quiet and laidback. The beaches around the main centre can get busy I´m told but we took an 11km hike over the hills to deserted side of the island. The only thing that was a bit wierd was the University Ecology Department base in the old prison (this island was Brazil´s alcatraz) which was reminiscent of the TV show LOST. It creeped me out a bit. At least there wasn´t a big let down like at the end of LOST. The beach at Dios Rios was perfect. Ellie and I even managed to acquire two canine companions on the trip over (both of whom had tried to scrounge dinner the night before). The dogs and I just collapsed in the sun while Ellie went off to explore. It was tranquil and the relaxed atmosphere just soaked into my system. I think I was what the Dalai Lama would call a state of zen-like awesomeness! I could not reccommend this place highly enough to anyone. I´m sure you could have too much of tranquility, perfect beaches, sublime waters (and surfing I believe) and access to mother nature a stone throw in any direction, but I wouldn´t have minded giving it a go. Alas, as a traveller one is obliged to get one´s arse in to gear and see the world, which as I´m discovering entails much waiting at bus stations and ports! Also, the act of relaxing doesn´t sit well with my better half who is much happier to be causing havok and unleashing boundless energy upon the world!

So on to Curitiba, which apparently is a model city or something (possibly very small, but to scale?), and Ihla Do Mel (tropical paradise part 2) and Iguacu Falls (lots of water trying to end it all by jumping off a cliff). So, until next time, adios (I am aware it´s Spanish but as I saidf my Portuguese is really dire).

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Comments

[Rob Grinter]

Whats it all about Alfie?
Hi Son Sounds like you are both into the Indiana Jones tourism thing. Ellie exploring on her own...never! You on the beach... eating? You must have been. Did the dogs taste nice? If the place you are in reminds you of Lost just recall Leadgate in winter. I would not swop a trip down a mine with a football hating guide for a week in tumbleweed city. At least Lost had an end to it. If your digs are poor there Im sure there is a place in Argentina where you can stay the night in a place quite cheaply. Its called something like Fray Bentos. Some people have a beef about this but I just think its a corny excuse and i would can it if i had my way. There is a key to finding it so im told but that may be just a ruse. Enjoy the scenery and dont go too far off the beaten track. Take care son.