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Published: February 13th 2008
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Sorry for the long wait with the blog page, but we got into a bad habit of not keeping it up to date.
As we left Cusco the sun was shining and the sky was a clear blue. This was further enhanced by a beautiful ride up a lush green valley following the river. However we would soon leave this behind as we climbed over another 4000m pass onto the Altiplano, that would eventually lead us into Bolivia.
The wind was gentle as we started but grew strong to the end of the first day. "Don´t worry, it will probably die down tomorrow...." How wrong were we!!! The full week and half from Cusco to Copacabana then La Paz was a direct head wind. This was made even worse by the very flat, barren and tough Altiplano. The tough riding was eventually rewarded as we saw our first sights of Lake Titicaca glistening in the distance. We had half a day of in Puno to appreciate the good weather and mountain views of the Cordilla across the lake. Little did we know that this bliss weather that Carl kept going on about was going to change in a matter of
Leaving Cusco
The beautiful valley leading to the Altiplano hours... The next day started wet and windy, which then turned sunny, but ended in a massive thunder storm followed by heavy snow and hail.... topped of by the worse hostel in all of Peru, no water at all and a room that smelt of wet dog..... It was also well expensive at 1.50 each!!
As we left Peru, we said goodbye to Inca cola (gold coloured coca-cola), The mad waving, pipping lorry & bus drivers and mint & chocolate flavoured Casino biscuits......
BOLIVIA
We spent the last morning in Peru getting rid of our Sol´s and hiding our Dollars for the border crossing, due to all the scare stories we had heard. Thankfully we were rewarded with a smooth and quick border crossing, where the police were more interesting in gossiping than fleecing us. However the policeman did look disappointed when we told him we were English and not American. (America now has to pay $100 entry fee into Bolivia, haha) For the good old British it is a 90 day free visa...
The first port of call is Copacabana, which I will truly say is a stunning little village/town next to the shore´s
Pomarte
From summer to winter overnight on the shores of Lake Titicaca of Titicaca. This was a good resting place to explore the shore line and the Isle del Sol. We had mega hostel with a women who just wanted to mother everyone. We tried our first trout from the lake, which was supurb and climbed the 'Stations of the Cross' for an impressive view over the Lake and back towards Peru. The boat trip to the Isle del Sol started on a cloudy bleak morning, that eventually turned into a clear blue day. The locals believe that the sun was born from the island and one of the major Inca leaders also came from there. We did a good walk covering the island from the northern tip to the southern port, with a full 360 degree view of the lake around you. The one frustrating thing is that the boat to the island took 2-3 hours to cover a distance that could be cycled in about 40-50 mins... As Mr Orme pre-warned us, you do see pieces of drift wood floating by faster than you.....
One of the things that supprised Carl was the amount of tourists that were present in Copacabana compared to 4 years ago. Unfortunately they are the
Bolivian breakfast
The fantastic egg sandwich stalls... annoying hippy type trying to sell shoe laces as necklaces and walk around with no shoes on their feet. (What is that about, they should appriciate that the can afford shoes)
Thankfully as we left Copacabana the renowned dog gang were sleeping or busy attacking someone else and were not intereted in chasing me and Carl that day!! (previously they have chased Carl, Chris Ed and many of the cyclist we met coming the opposite way)
LA PAZ
Stunning views of the Lake and Huyane Potosi as we carried along on the Altiplano to La Paz.
La Paz has always been a place I was nervous visiting, especially because someone tried to rob Carl when he was there in 2004, and the similar stories we had heard from other travellers. This was further enhanced as we entered the suburbs through El Alto and joined a 4 lane highway with busy traffic. Eventually you come to the edge of the canyon, with the vast city spread below you and the mountain Illimani hidden in whispy clouds, overlooking the city.
Slowly we desended the 400m, stopping every now and then to take pictures. Thankfully we found the hostel very
Lake Titicaca
The sun reflecting over the lake quickly, and set of on a walkabout testing all the different street foods and then finding a mega resturant that did jacket potatoes, with cheese, ham and salad. Ah heaven. (This is a rare treat to have in South America) Carl´s heaven was even further enhanced by the amount of VW Camper Van´s and Beetles, which can be clearly seen by the amount of photo´s he has taken on his memory stick....!!
The climb out of La Paz was stunning with Illimani making its first full appearence, but soon disappeared as we made our way along the Altiplano. Once again we were back to the head wind and the desert with the tune Hotel California playing along in my head. It is what we imagined Nevarda & Utah to be like.....
However nothing prepared us for the amount of begging children we would see at the side of the road (remember we are cycling through the middle of nowhere) We later found out that this was a Christmas thing.
CHRISTMAS - ORURO
As we came into Oruro we had heard that this was not a pleasant mining city and this was not help as we both cycled
Copacabana
The Bolivian coast through our first ever sandstorm. I have never felt so intimidated by the weather before as it threw both me & Carl around like a feather. Thankfully we have not come across anymore.
Truthfully Oruro was mega, as we got there the Christams market was in full swing with food stalls, music and game stalls busy making their money. Carl was in heaven once again. We then had a beautiful clear blue sunny day on Christmas day and watch the local work groups & churches perform in their local bands in the Christmas Day procession. One thing that has stayed with for us a long time is the constant singing of the Chritsmas lights around the plaza. It did your head in after a while.
We had another beautiful day as we left Oruro and made our way along the moon like desert southwards. Finally we made an eastwards turn and headed into the mountains towards Potosi. Never have we been so glad to see a climb. Days of riding on flat windy roads can take its toll on your backside.....
The view through the mountains was spectaular after the barreness of the Altiplano desert. Along the way
Isle del Sol
The Island of the Sun, with its famous Inca ruins and Lake Titicaca in the back ground we found a mega resturant (the cleanest we have ever seen in Bolivia) and the cheapest accomadation at 50p a night each!!
The last section to Potosi was a 800m climb at the end of a 70 miles day of passes and valleys. The thought of the rest day the day after was the thing keeping us going.........
NEW YEAR - POTOSI (4000m, the highest city in the world)
Potosi is one of UNESCO´s World Heritage sites. It gained its wealth from Cerro Ricco, which is the mountain at the side of the city. It was full of silver & gold and was once one of the wealthiest cities in the world. Unfortunately all its fortune went to the Spanish. Its main export is tin these days, with the average worker working for 12-15 hours a day, chewing coca-leaves to surpress their hunger. Not many will live pass the age of 45/50 and may retire if they lose 50% of their lung capacity!!! Its know as the ¨job from hell¨.
The actual city & plaza is beautiful with old coloinal buildings and lush trees. We decided it was a good place to relax over the New Year.
Huyani Potosi
Huyani Potosi standing high above the Altiplano Unfortunately our New Year was put to a halt a 8pm when I got servere sickness & the trots.... Not good seeing midnight sat on the loo....
Happy New Year & all the beat for 2008
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