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After once again enduring the tediousness of Chilean customs, we were on our way to Bolivia! I was excited to be entering a country for the first time and before another hour had passed, we were already at over 5,000m above sea level. Bolivian customs was a sight to behold, for we were nowhere near any form of civilisation, yet there before us stood a squat rectangular structure with faded blue paint in the middle of this vast expanse. Nearby was the rusting shell of a bus that was the toilet. Once the formalities were out of the way, we clambered into our Toyota Landcruiser, along with our driver, Wilson, and we were on our way to what would be three days of some of the most scenically breathtaking landscapes of my journeys thus far (accompanied by an unending soundtrack of Wilson’s beloved Bolivian panpipe music…we all have limits).
What opened up before us were numerous lagoons of varying colours, backed by soaring Andean peaks and smoking volcanos. The reflections of these snow-topped peaks in the still waters of the pristine lagoons instantly created a lasting image in my mind. Without a doubt, my absolute highlight was Laguna Colorada. As
always, the backdrop to the lagoon was sublime, yet this particular lagoon contained water that was in turns red and orange in colour. This vibrant colour contrasted vividly with the green grasses along the shores and the blue skies overhead, which were punctuated by soaring mountains with a shimmering layer of snow at their summits. Completing the surreal picture was abundant life in the form of thousands of flamingos which make this lagoon their home, feeding on the algae, which gives the water its Dali-esque hue. I spent the majority of my time being unable to formulate words and, in fact, silent awe was the most befitting response. Yet at one point my thoughts formed themselves into a thread that unravelled itself into the realisation that the entire scene seemed somewhat prehistoric. It was at this precise point that my travelling buddy and new friend, Dan, stated to me as our meandering paths crossed that, “It seems prehistoric, or something.” The landscape had a power of stilling you and I was one of many who experienced, for want of a better term, a ‘moment’ in this surreal and majestic place.
Sleeping at close to 5,000m above sea level in
the desert equates to experiencing bone-chilling cold. Even the trusty method of playing drinking games with cheap wine can’t defeat the cold and very little sleep was had by all. During winter, the nightly temperature is regularly in the vicinity of -20 degrees Celsius. Cold. So cold. Still, the daytime exploits and sights made every degree below zero worth enduring. One such place was a bizarre formation of enormous rock formations that struck me as being akin to toys for adolescent giants. I enjoyed clambering atop these odd shapes and peering across the sandy desert plains of the Bolivian Altiplano until the horizon was interrupted by the ever-present Andes. In such places, there is absolute silence. It is like you have stepped into a painting, as they are devoid of sound yet can scream so loudly with colour and shape.
After spending a night in the tiny outpost of Villa Alota, where you can stand at a cross intersection and see the edge of town in all directions, each only a short roll of a tumbleweed away, we visited a train cemetery where Dan and I acted like two little kids when we spied a see-saw made out of
train parts. Sometimes it’s good not to take life too seriously. After this brief detour, we made our way to our final destination, Salar de Uyuni. These salt flats bring hordes of tourists to Bolivia and I was no different. As our 4X4 crunched over the salt and sped to a place where all sense of direction is lost (these salt flats cover an expanse of over 10,500 square kilometres), I knew I was in yet another truly unique location. We spent hours taking silly and stupidly fun photos of seemingly altered visual perspective, due to the lack of anything else in the shot except for flat, unending and blindingly white salt, only contrasted by the blue of the sky.
Whilst I enjoyed the salt flats, I had previously known about them and seen countless photos, so I knew what to expect. However, I had not known about the lagoons and deserts so, as a result, they made a far greater impression upon me and were indeed the scenic highlight of my trip (not to understate the dazzling night sky, with innumerable glittering stars captivating my gaze each and every night). The other highlight was forging new friendships with
some terrific people whom I hope to see again in the future. Spending all those hours together jammed into a 4X4, sharing rooms, laughter, drinks, secrets and reflections on life, surrounded by such rare beauty in nature, how could it not be a highlight? And that’s only covering my first three days in Bolivia! What does the rest of my time here have in store?
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