La Paz and ´Death Road´


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April 10th 2006
Published: April 10th 2006
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La Paz from Mirador aboveLa Paz from Mirador aboveLa Paz from Mirador above

La Paz is in a valley on the altiplato so the road in gives some great views. Sprawling.
So we bumped our way from Copacabana to La Paz about 10 days ago, with Rach still reeling from the effects of sunstroke. The city itself is the highest capital in the world at about 4000m above sea level. Like many other capitals, it´s sprawling and overcrowded both on the pavements and on the roads and this, combined with the altitude makes it a hard city to get around.

However, ATM machines, fast food, 5* hotels and book exchanges have all treated us well and were very much appreciated.

Spent several days in the city getting our feet, shopping and eating and visiting the sparse sights. La Paz isn´t the most picturesque of cities, nor does it have a wealth of interesting museums or attractive plazas but it serves as a good base, having everything we needed.

We visited the Coca museum here, it was great to see the different cultural attitudes towards coca, from its indigenous use as a ´herbal remedy´to the use of coca leaves in the silver mines of bolivia to give energy to the miners and of course to the snorting off mirrors in various bars etc in the west...

Having exhausted La
Calle LllampuCalle LllampuCalle Lllampu

This is the road we are staying on. Street vendors, internet cafes and laundries....
Paz we booked ourselves onto Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking´s "Worlds Most Dangerous Road" bike ride. (Which seems to be one of the main reasons people visit La Paz). Basically the ride takes you from the top of the Andes at about 3800m down to 1400ish along 60+kms of winding, unpaved, cliff-edged road. We later found out that it gets the name from the 300 people and 50+ trucks which fall off the edges each year.... See pics as usual.

The next day, with sore wrists, numb arses and general aches we boarded a military flight to Rurrenebaque (the amazonian lowlands) which is where we spent the next 7 days (Blog to follow shortly)

Thanks for reading, hope all is well at home. C&R.


Additional photos below
Photos: 17, Displayed: 17


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MarketMarket
Market

Market day... fancy an unrefrigerated bit of meat or fish maybe? EVERYTHING can be found here... Some of it looks great, some of it can turn the stomach.
Shopping...Shopping...
Shopping...

We picked up some great llama wool jumpers. These stalls and shops selling wools can be found everywhere.
BussesBusses
Busses

The main form of transport in La Paz are these Old School (literally) busses. Smokin´.
Witches´ MarketWitches´ Market
Witches´ Market

On these stalls can be found dried foetuses of llamas and other animals, along with ´cursed´(or blessed) statues and herbs for every imaginable ailment... apparently.
Coca LeavesCoca Leaves
Coca Leaves

Fancy buying some coca leaves off a 6yr old? Bolivia is the place to do it! Theyre everywhere and people buy them by the sack load.
Pre-bike ride breakyPre-bike ride breaky
Pre-bike ride breaky

Honestly, we´re wasting away.... please, if you can spare ANY food we require it urgently :-)
Unloading at the topUnloading at the top
Unloading at the top

Here we are, 40mins uphill from La Paz. 3500m. It was cooooold as you can see!
Kitted up and on the moveKitted up and on the move
Kitted up and on the move

Here we are, donning the safety gear and layers!
Fast TarmacFast Tarmac
Fast Tarmac

Before we got to ´Worlds most dangerous road´ we had about 20kms of downhill tarmac to get used to the bikes. At one point i thought rachel was gonna go but she got the hang of it in the end! It was so quick we were overtaking busses and trucks...
Steep DropSteep Drop
Steep Drop

After about an hour of tarmac (and 1000m descent) we hit the single track dirt road. The drop at the side was sheer and there were no barriers. See the bus winding its way along...
Single trackSingle track
Single track

Here we are, huddled together as overloaded trucks grunt past. This is the main road to Brazil believe it or not! We were made to stick to the left (closest to the edge) in the hope other vehicles would stick to the inside and not knock us off (as has happened before!)
She´ll be coming round the mountain..She´ll be coming round the mountain..
She´ll be coming round the mountain..

Some of the waterfalls were a welcome relief, it got a LOT hotter as we descended into the jungle.
Rest stopRest stop
Rest stop

Chris insisted on doing abit of daredevil riding with the ´fast ones´at the front...which gave him time to reflect while the rest of us caught up!
Finally at the bottom...Finally at the bottom...
Finally at the bottom...

We had some cold beers waiting for us and a chance to go for a swim before heading ALL the way back up the same way in the truck (which took 4 hours and was a lot more frightening than riding the bike!)
So to Rurre!So to Rurre!
So to Rurre!

The Bolivian Air Force run passenger services occasionally... we managed to get one out of La Paz to Rurrenebaque. Blog to follow!


11th April 2006

You lucky people
Good day to you both, I've been following the blog with almost stalker-like enthusiasm over the last few months. Still here at my desk on the Windows 2000 corporate machine. It's 8:31 and I'm counting the 7h30 till I can leave again. Don't come back, whatever you do. It's just the same here as you left it. Never changes. Still on the upside I only have 16 days left (including today) then I'll be off work and on the downhill run to making my own travelblog. No real news from home, Jim's back soon. Rob's depressing me and they're advertising for a new series of Big Brother. Take care and keep up the photos but write more SVP. Out, Chris 'MFD' Matthews.
12th April 2006

Another great adventure by the sounds of it. I don't think I'd be very good with those steep drops etc - you know what Im like with heights Chris!! Not sure about the Air Force passenger jet either. Speak to you soon luv mom xxx
17th April 2006

Mum has just read your blog sounds great fun.Practising on our new bikes maybe we can have a race when you get back!!! Mum and dad send love.Looking forward to next installment.Love M+W

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