El Referendum

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Hola again!

Ok, this is going to be a long one because there is a lot to catch up on. Last time we blogged we said how we were going to meet up with Majo and her friends to make dinner. Well, before that occurred Laura and I decided to go into San Miguel to exchange some money in La Casa de Cambio and to buy a new pair of boots for Laura. The only problem was that we previously ha picked up Laura’s backpack and laptop from our tía Nena’s house because she left it there the night before. So there we were in San Miguel (a downtown part of LA Paz with stores, outdoor vendors, restaurants, and cafes), and I was FREAKING OUT because I had to walk directly behind Laura so that her backpack wouldn’t be stolen right off her shoulders. Now, you must understand that although I am slightly ethnic looking, Laura and I scream “GRINGAS” walking down the streets of La Paz. We stick out like sore thumbs simply because everyone else is 4 shades darker in skin and hair color. However, in Santa Cruz (where we were born) you will find people with lighter skin and lighter hair. Girls from Santa Cruz are known as “cambas”, and seem to hold a bad rep in La Paz (similar to stuck up girls from Beverly Hills). Later, Laura will explain the political aspects of what is going on in Bolivia (especially today since it is the referendum).

After successfully buying new boots without getting our belongings stolen, Laura and I went home and got picked up by Majo and her boyfriend (Shaggy- he looks like Shaggy from Scooby Doo). We then traveled up up up the roads of La Paz to her friend Cara and Beto’s house. There, we met 3 triplets (Shaggy’s brother and sister), Shaggy’s older sister who lives in France, her boyfriend, a pair of twin girls, and about 5 other people. Let me just say, Bolivians are fun people! We spent about 6 hours cooking, dancing, and chatting in English, Spanish, but mostly Spanglish. Majo’s friends all went to the University with her and all are studying Political Science. Therefore, there was plenty to talk and debate about over dinner, regarding the referendum in Bolivia and the upcoming presidential election in the States. Apparantley, Obama is very popular among the people of other countries (Bolivia, France, Germany, etc.). While chatting over dinner, music was constantly playing in the background (ranging from Lifehouse to Shakira to Nirvana to Argentinian Rock, but ending with SALSA!). A couple of Majo’s girlfriends gave Laura and I a crash course in dancing salsa (very popular over here) as practice for when we will go out dancing in the clubs.

That Friday, we called it a night at about 12:30 (there was a 12:00 curfew in place 48 hours before the referendum today). We made some new friends, got phone numbers, and made upcoming plans to hang out with people (and for me to sing with Shaggy’s band). After Laura and I caught a ride home from Shaggy’s Dad and 4 siblings, we watched Sexo en La Ciudad. (Anecdote- in the streets of La Paz you can find anything so cheap, even bootleg movies that are still in theaters. We bought Sex in the City, Batman, Wanted, Chronicles of Narnia Prince Caspian, and Juno for a total of 5 bucks!)

The next day, we awoke to a phone call from Nena telling us exactly what we were going to do that day. At 1:00 we went to lunch in “el centro” with our Aunt Ibi, cousins Camilo (26?), Paco (22?), his baby (9 months), and Caya (18). After a typical La Paz lunch (Laura will elaborate later), we walked to la plaza murillo where there was about 5,000 pigeons. We were feeding them birdseed and these pigeons were not shy; they climbed on our shoulders, arms, hands, and heads (we have pics and video). After saying goodbye to our newly discovered cousins, tía Ibi walked with us into San Francisco (calle Sergarniga), where there was awesome outdoor shopping for very cheap and cool vintage clothing stores (this is where we will return to buy gifts for family and friends).

We then met up with Nena for our first interview with an actual Kallawaya! This lasted about 3 hours, as Don Mario had no problem informing us about their history and practices. He even performed coca leaf readings 3 times for Nena, regarding her lost luggage, work life, and family problems. Laura will explain about this also in the next entry.

Side note- as I am blogging in the attic I can hear cries from a local dogfight. There are hundreds of homeless dogs roaming the streets of Bolivia- it is a sight I have already grown accustomed to.

Anyways, last night we caught at taxi back to Nena’s house. While doing so, she explained which taxis can be trusted and which cannot be. She warned us to never take an unmarked taxi or one with the #28*******. These particular taxis are known for abducting, robbing, and killing people. In fact, a colleague of Nena’s husband and his wife were murdered by these people not too long ago. I think this stuff is good to know!

We went back to Nena’s house for some food and chatted with Majo and Shaggy for about an hour regarding the differences of young people in the States, Bolivia, and Europe. Then we called a radio taxi to bring us home so we could watch Chronicles of Narnia and get some rest.

Now, I’ll hand the next entry off to Laurita Gordita to explain exactly what is happening on this special Sunday in Bolivia.

Hasta Luego!

<3 Nejla Esmeralda

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