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Published: September 16th 2018
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Incredibly tired after a flight, our overnight bus and 2 more flights. Arrived in La Paz & a guide took us to a great place for lunch. Then a wander around the shops selling Alpaca so that we can keep warm in the freezing places ahead. Then I got hit with the altitude, poor boy had to go to bed early.
Briefly met the new group a good mix of Scots, English, Swiss a Kiwi and a German.
Next day feeling a little better & not hearing great things about the hotel breakfast we decided to spoil ourselves & return to cafe de Munro for breakfast. We will be there again when we get back to la Paz in a weeks time.
We walked through the markets to the cathedral, in front of which we watched a local group & dancers shooting a pop video before heading back to the airport to fly out to Sucre- once the capital of Bolivia, now La Paz.
Sucre felt like a breath of fresh air and relaxing almost as soon as we arrived.
Our new guide Ariel from Argentina, took us on a short orientation walk before dinner and as
luck would have it on the main square there was a festival taking place with bands and dancers. A great welcome to Sucre and we would see more of them over the next few days. Then dinner at cafe de florin where the owner brews his own craft beer - best beer so far in S America.
Food and prices much better than Brazil & we found it easy to relax and do our own thing.
First full day we visited El Casa de la Libertad or House of Freedom where a guide walked us round the building and the exhibits within. A truly educational visit as we were exposed to, not only the founding of Bolivia as a star which happened within that building, but also the geo politics of South America and Europe - particularly Spain
Simon Bolívar was their first president (3 months only) and the country was named after him. Both of these honours were given to him to avoid Bolivia becoming part o a grander plan he had about creating a United States of South America. Who knows how different South America and the world would have been if his ambition had
succeeded. Worth a visit but make sure you get a guided tour.
Sue went off to visit Parque Cretacico to see the dinosaur footprints up a rock wall ( land movement pushed the land surface up at a tangent) while I wandered the town, grabbed a beer at a great lookout spot, cafe de mirador and swotted some Spanish in the sun.
The afternoon saw us walking the town visiting the market then heading to Simon Bolívar park where a mini Eiffel Tower was being climbed in by kids. A nice family space. While we were there we could hear the bands again so we headed across and saw hundreds then thousands lining the roads waiting for something.
We walked along and eventually came across bands and dancers having finished their march and we thought that was it. However we decided to walk up and were rewarded by hearing other bands still playing and coming towards us. Long story short we walked along the streets as the bands and dancers of all ages 7 - 77 kept coming past. We must have walked well over a mile as they walked in the opposite direction past us and
still they were coming - we never did get to the end of the parade as we had to grab a taxi ( wouldn’t pass an MOT in any country) to see the sunset from cafe Mirador.
Next day a 6 kilometre walk down a Pre Inca trail at Chuquisaca. On the way there we saw many Apacherads (roadside memorials) which said more than enough about the roads. However the walk was a good hike down along a path more than 1000 years old. The ride back on dusty and narrow cliff side roads was interesting too - glad I wasn’t driving!
We wandered towards the towns cemetery when we came across what must be he largest funeral procession outside of a state funeral I have seen with 2 bands one at the front the other at the back. Clearly a teenager from what looked like classmates acting as guard of honour followed by most if not all of the school plus family & it seemed like a huge community. Very moving and difficult to not feel like we were intruding. Two other funerals came in later one of about 60 and the other a coffin brought up
on the back of a pick up with only family as part of it. Visiting a cemetery is interesting for tourists but when you see this you remember the reality of life and death. No photos were taken!
Next we climbed the stairs to the roof of la Mersed church - interesting mounds on the roof no health and safety in sight but great views.
Final night in Sucre saw us all eat at the ‘Bolivian Dining Experience’. A good night had by all experiencing peanut soup, main course????, spiced white chocolate ice cream a terrific Bolivian wine (name) and making a Bolivian cocktail called Chufly. You can check these guys out on Facebook they are new, really nice people, full of enthusiasm. It was a fun experience & great Bolivian food & drink.
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