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Published: August 21st 2006
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Classic scary corner
Yes, we went down on the left. Oh my lord. After a couple of days resting in La Paz, experiencing the craziness of the street markets where you can buy anything from dried llama foetuses to a new toilet, we bit the bullet and signed up for the infamous downhill mountain biking experience along the world´s most dangerous road. Everybody we´ve met who has the t-shirt recommended Gravity Assisted in La Paz as the company to go with. Excellent bikes and the best guides. As well as a great safety record. They certainly were a splendid organisation. We went for the full package. Top notch full-suspension Kona bikes, protective clothing, goggles, etc. But nothing quite prepared us for the madness of the ride - over 60 km downhill almost all the way. We started out at 4,700 mts and descended to 1,600 mts - from snow capped peaks to steamy jungle.
We met our fellow riders and guides at a lovely cafe on the main Prado avenue in La Paz centre and enjoyed a fortifying breakfast before piling into our vehicles and setting off into the mountains. At La Cumbre, our starting point, we all had an individual safety talk and were fitted for our bikes. I had the distinct
Sacrifice to mother earth
Pre-departure ritual to pachamama. Take a swig of neat alcohol and then pour some on the ground. Very reassuring. feeling my bike would be capable of a far better performance than I was qualified to get out of it. After that we gathered for the ritual sacrifice to Pachamama (Mother Earth in the Quechua language) to protect us on our crazy journey, and then we were off.
We were a large group of 18 but we had 3 guides to help us down the hill. One went first to scout the road ahead. This position is known as ´truck bait´. He has a radio and a whistle. One guide went in the middle of the group and one at the back along with the support vehicle. We were told 3 short blasts on the whistle meant something big was coming so pull over and wait. No problem.
The road starts out fast and nicely tarmacked. This helped us get used to the bikes which were pretty nifty. Graham soon sped off and was looking like a pro as he leaned into the corners and assumed a mean hunched posture to extract maximum velocity. I took up my place in the last third or so and tried to get the look. I thought I was really going for
Cruisin´ in the truck
The uphill section at high altitude proved a bit strenuous. Milly takes it easy. it, but the pictures make me look more like I´m riding a Pashley Princess and enjoying a sunday bike ride through nice English country lanes. Despite that, the ride felt face-meltingly fast.
I quickly got out of breath on the short uphill section, because of the altitude as much as the effort required. So I caught a sneaky ride in the support truck. Before we started on the really dangerous stretch, our bikes were checked over and we had another safety talk. The world´s most dangerous road is a quite a sight. Barely wide enough for one vehicle to traverse, it is definitely two-way. Downhill drivers must use the left side and give way to those coming uphill. This way the driver closest to the edge can see how close his wheels are to the sheer drop. We were reminded to get off our bikes to the right and stand with them between us and the edge when vehicles were passing. A few people had gone over the edge by getting off the wrong side.
The road surface was made up of big stones and a thick layer of dust. I started getting instant flashbacks to skidding through
Precarious corner
One of many. But everyone is having a good time. We try not to look down. a pile of gravel on my little sister´s bike, aged 14, and breaking my ankle in stupid fashion. I didn´t know how I was going to keep this super speedy bike upright on such terrain. It was a pretty bumpy ride. The guides made us stop at frequent pull-ins on the way down to regroup, remove layers of clothing as it got warmer and take snack breaks. Graham was usually one of the first in. I wasn´t quite so speedy. But my confidence improved as the road progressed and even if I was a bit grannyish, I felt like I was really moving.
The scenery was magnificent. Mountain peaks to jungle covered slopes. Waterfalls crossing our path and the occasional heap of twisted wreckage visible in the gorge below. Tried not to think about that too much. A system of human traffic lights was established a few years ago by a local man who lost his family in an accident. People perched in little shelters at optimal look-out points waved red and green flags at us to let us know if the way was clear. We witnessed some terrifying stand-offs between trucks and buses. All from a safe distance
I´m pleased to say.
At some point near the end, Graham bit the dust. Quite literally. While adjusting his face protection gear with one hand, he lost control in a patch of deep red dust and performed a spectacular wipe-out. Fortunately he was fine, a big graze on his right forearm and pants full of dust, but other than that no injuries. He also performed a fine traverse of a big water patch. I sneaked round the back and avoided it completely. Unfortunately, my cowardice was captured perfectly on video by the guides. The shame.
We all collapsed at the end, triumphant but filthy. We were presented with our commemorative t-shirts and driven up to a lovely hotel in Coroico for showers and a slap-up buffet. Unfortunately, we had to return to La Paz the same way we had ridden. It was better to be going uphill and therefore allowed to hug the cliff, but it was still a scary ride. There were rumours of a crash having happened that afternoon and after an hour or so we pulled to a stop, a dozen or so vehicles parked up in front of us. Our guides got out and
Looking the part
Graham gives it some went to investigate. A passenger bus from La Paz had indeed gone over the edge that afternoon. It was getting dark by then. There was lots of shouting and a genuine sense of panic in the air. Our guides quickly rushed to donate the safety equipment they carry. Back boards and ropes. Graham was also quick to lend his strength to the proceedings and started to help with the recovery effort. It was reported that at least half of the 40 passengers were dead already. Those showing any sign of life were wrapped in blankets and lifted out of the gorge on ropes. Graham helped pull at least 16 people up and out into waiting pick-ups doubling as ambulances. There were no medical personnel at the top and no facilities for administering on-site emergency first aid. Just lots of shouting. We don´t know how many of those rescued eventually made it but it didn´t look very promising for most.
The rescue was called off at about 10pm when there were no survivors left in the wreckage. We made it back to La Paz after midnight, exhausted and slightly traumatised. A dramatic end to a pretty hair-raising day, and a
harsh reminder why this particular road has earned its reputation. Graham says he would do the ride again without hesitation. I´m not so sure. But I´m really glad we did it. And survived.
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Tabi
non-member comment
well done you too, brought a tear to my eye reading about Graham helping out must have been terrible. Miss you lots. LOve Tabi x Stay safe