Copacabana and Puno (by accident)

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Copacabana, Puno and The Blockade

The bus trip to Copacabana was unexpectadly interesting. I hadn't done my research, and didn't really know what was going on when they emptied the bus at some small town on Lake Titicaca and shuffled us all off to buy a ticket for something i couldn't translate properly. I basically just copied all the other people on the bus and we got loaded onto a ferry and carted a few hundred metres to the other side of the lake while the bus was driven onto a questionably constructed wooden raft and essentially floated across the lake. Bizzarre sight to behold. Watching our bus float over i was pretty certain that there must be several others rusting at the bottom.

Arrived in Copacabana with reservations at La Cupula Hotel, which came with massive hype from Lachlan, other travelers, and the Lonely Planet and definitly did not disappoint. It was probably the most expensive place in Copacabana (at a lofty 19USD per night), but the price bought a huge naval-themed room with two double beds (one in a loft accessable by ladder), private bathroom with the best shower i've used in South America, and an array of little open gardens dotted with hammocks that overlook the beach and the city.

Because of the miltiple ailments that i'd carried into Copacabana, i spent the first couple of days lounging about the gardens and reading books and playing guitar. At around sunset every evening, a local lady brings a small flock of sheep onto each of the gardens and they graze the grass down for an hour or so. Naps in the hammocks with the sun going down and background noises of sheep pulling up grass were pretty amazing. Much more soothing than lawnmowers.

On my first stroll through town, i stumbled upon the weekly 'blessing of automobiles', where people bring down their vehicles, cover them in decorations and fruit and then smash bottles of champagne on the ground. Though it was fun to watch for a few minutes, the smell of the fruit and the champagne vaporising in the sun was fairly overpowering. Otherwise, the town is pretty unremarkable, and REALLY well touristed (sorry lachlan). It's a really small lakeside town with a sandy strip covered with plastic swan paddling boats and people selling tickets to isla del sol. Also has a weird rastafarian vibe during the day that takes over at night and dreadlocked people were starting fires in the plaza and cranking the Bob Marley at one point on my way home from dinner.

Visited Isla del Sol on one day, but had a few issues with the ferry that took us over and got in late and had to leave early, so i only got enough time to visit the ruins at the north end and then quickly walk across the top of the island to the south port to get back on the boat. It's an amazing walk across the top, though, and the ruins at the north were the best i've seen so far. Big maze of rooms and corridors that abruptly opens out on the side of a hill overlooking Titicaca. Forgot sunscreen and got dominated by the sun. Likely to shed my face skin at some point in the near future.

Went on an eating binge because i lost a bit of weight from being sick. They farm giant trout on Titicaca, and 10US buys you a slab of buttery fried trout the size of a paperback and potatoes and salad and a beer. Love Bolivia.

Once i was feeling well and my funds had started to run short, i booked an overnight bus across the border to cusco. About half an hour before it was due to leave, the tour agency lady found me in the street (Copacobana is very small) and refunded the ticket, telling me the road was closed just north of Puno ( the next big town on the Peruvian side of the border). Slightly confused, i just booked a ticket to Puno and figured i'd try to sort it out when i got there. A couple of Aussies on the bus had been told that they'd be able to link up with a bus in Puno and had paid for tickets and everything for that night. Border formalities were uneventful, and the bus started to approach Puno at about 9pm. Directly across the lake, just past where you could Puno's lights, there were two massive fires visible across the lake sending up a heap of smoke and reflecting on the water. Pretty impressive sight. Apparently the road was not so much closed as blockaded and thigns were being set on fire. Research the next day told me that Puno's regional president had failed to give funding for highway maintenance. That'll learn him. The bus compaines at the main terminal of Puno assured me that the blockade would be clear by tonight (it's been there five days now, apparently) and so hopefully i'll be in cusco tomorrow.

Wandered around Puno today. It is an ok city. I trekked up to the mirador (lookout) kuntur wasi (something about condors) and was pretty impressed. You can see the whole city from there and there is a huge metal condor statue that looks over the city. Most tourists visit the islands on Titicaca from Puno, but i didn't get up early enough for the boats.

Hopefully will be in Cusco by the morning!

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Photos

The bus raft
They put buses on these. On water. I shit you not.

La Cupula
The sunset over Lago Titicaca as viewed from a hammock

Copacabana
con perro

Isla del Sol
Chincana ruins

Isla del Sol
The north-south walk

Kutur Wasi Puno
Dork

Comments

[Andrew]

Hey. You took a picture of Tonks as well!