The Great Lake in the Sky

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How time flies. Before we knew it we had been in Peru a month which was not really part of the plan. No regrets, we loved it there, but the problem is we only have 8 weeks left until we fly home. To add further complication we have now decided to add Brazil to the itinerary. We had better get our skates on. Our route to Brazil takes us back through Bolivia and first and foremost Lake Titicaca. This is the worlds highest navigable lake at 3800m above sea level and it forms part of the border between Peru and Bolivia. Needless to say it is a beautiful spot, with some lovely islands to be visited.

We started in Puno, still on the Peruvian side of the lake. We weren´t expecting too much from this city after some poor reports from Jules and George, who had visited a week or so earlier. We sat on the coach, looking out at the half crumbled buildings, open sewers and filthy streets and were reluctant to step out of the air conditioning. Luckily, what were were looking at turned out to be Juliaca. Puno was the next stop and really quite pleasant in comparison. It even had a giant statue of a condor guarding over it.

From Puno we arranged a two day boat tour to take us to three of the Islands on the Peruvian side of the lake. The first was Uros, which is really a collection of Islands rather than a single entity. And, if truth be told, they aren´t real islands but artificial floating ones. Presumably for a better view, local residents decided to build themselves somewhere to live in the middle of the lake, using blocks of floating reeds anchored to the bottom using nylon thread. A nice idea and a great way to guarantee a lakeside view. The thing about these small communities is that sometimes disputes break out and fractions form, and this is where living conditions like this really come into their own. They just chop the island into two pieces, hey presto - problem solved. There had obviously been a fair few arguments as there were a number of islands!

Next on the itinerary was Amantani, this time a real island and home to 4000 or so inhabitants all of whose first language is Quechua. We were to spend the night here and were greeted by one of the families who took us back to their place where we were fed and watered. Marissa and I were lucky and our family spoke Spanish so we were able to have the odd basic conversation. Then, after dinner, it all got a bit weird. We we were supposed to meet the other tourists in the village hall for a beer and a local disco, but as we were about to leave we had some local costumes thrust upon us. I got off lightly with just a poncho and a hat, but Marissa was given the full monty: skirt, blouse, wasteband and a rather fetching shawl. Marissa, having her usual concerns about getting cold, decided to put it all on over her jeans, fleece AND raincoat. I´m not even convinced this is traditional dress for these communities, I have a feeling it could all be a joke to play on us tourists. Fair enough though, its a good gag and it certainly got us in the mood for some traditional dancing. And, with all those layers on, Marissa was far from cold.

The next morning it was onwards to a third and more touristy island called Taquile for a spot of lunch and then a lovely boat trip back to Puno. We then made our way by land round to the Bolivian side of the lake and to Copacobana. It is at this point I have to use all my might to resist dropping in some lyrics from Mr Manilow´s famous number, which I recently discovered is actually about a nightclub in Cuba and not the famous beach in Rio. Thus making it altogether completely inappropriate to this sleepy lakeside town. Anyway, I digress. From here it was back over the water again to check out the Isla Del Sol, the most famous island on the Bolivian side of the lake. Legend has it that the Inca god, Viracocha, created the sun here and from that the entire Inca dynasty. Well he certainly knew what he was doing, the place was stunning. A rocky hilly island, with no roads or motor vehicles and home to just 800 families. From the top of the hill you can overlook the entire island, the surrounding crystal blue waters and just to top it all off, a further backdrop of tall show capped mountains. It really was like finding a Mediterranean island in the middle of the Andies. Like Viracocha himself, I am not one to miss an opportunity, so decided after just over 11 years that this was the place to ask Marissa to marry me. Obviously M being M, I had to first prise her away from practising Spanish with Rosa - a local 12 year old, convince her that 36 pictures of the current view was ample and then persuade her to come and sit down. Finally after a bit of patience, looking out over the glistening lake and the low setting sun, with only a donkey for company, I had my moment.

Spanish Word of the Week: Cuy - Guinea pig. Although they don´t go in for them as pets here, they prefer to have them for dinner. Normally served whole, head included and split down the middle. It´s actually quite tasty, just a fiddle to eat with all the small bones.

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This Week Likes:
* After arriving in Puno we were in desperate need of a quick feed. This came in the form of one of the cities many barbequed chicken establishments. Deeeelicious!
* Hotel Luxury. Puno doesn´t have an hostels so we were forced to stay in a hotel. After a week in the jungle it was great to have some mod cons like hotwater and cable TV.


* Muña - It only grows at high altitude, and conveniently when drunk it helps you cope with altidude sickness. We also thought it worked better than Coca Leaves.

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This Weeks Dislikes:
* The laundry service in Cusco losing Marissa´s brand new Inca Kola Tshirt. Yes I know, hark at the poor travellers and their laundry service worries. Its weird isn´t it, we are both unemployed and running out of money, but we get the luxury of eating in restaurants twice a day and having someone else wash out clothes for us! 😊
* Getting off the boat at Isla Del Sol we were faced with a 40 minute steep uphill climb with our full packs on our backs. We could have worked out this was to come, so why we didn´t leave the majority of our stuff in Copacobana is beyond me.
* The original plan was to travel from Cusco to Puno by train. We had heard the views were spectacular. Sadly after getting to the station at 7am the day before we wanted yo go, we queued for 90mins to be told it had sold out. They could have put a sign up ...

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Photos

Street Stalls
If I was going to have a street stall, I´d like to be in a setting like this

Uros Floating Island - Made of Reeds
Now where did we put the saw?

Row Row Row the Boat
Even if it is made of reeds, nylon and plastic bottles and will need replacing in 2 years time

Damn, they´re already married!
On taquile island married men wear red hats and the single boys wear red and white hats.

Unexpected Sunset
Of course we expected the sun to go down. We just didn´t think it would look this good.

Blue View
We weren´t feeling blue at the time though

Sail Away
Well they started off with the oars but when they were out of sight the engines came on. Kind of ruined the illusion for me.

Comments

[Marky]

Not long now
Mate, your trip looks great. So great in fact, you should stay a little longer if you can. Go to Brazil and spend some days on Ipanema getting a tan so that you get back for Christmas and put us pastys to shame. When you get back, let's meet up for a beer or two. Some of the other ex-Actix members will be around too. In fact, the ex-Actix club is starting to get rather large (I'm sure you've heard). Enjoy the rest of the trip, Mark H

[Gin]

I take it that's for James, not Iz! Don't worry ... you'll still be more tanned than me! ;) xx

[Joools]

I can only think ...
.... that I didn't make a comment on this one cos I was still reeling from the whole you-asked-and-she-said-yes thing! Anyway, you both look ludicrously happy ... I just hope you realise how crap coming back to work will be!!!

[Zoe]

Love it!
Marissa I swear you are wearing the exact same outfir I sported! Did it smell like dirty hair? x