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Published: December 29th 2011
Top of the Americas
Not too shabby... but physically and mentally exhausting.Updated trip report from December's climb of Aconcagua.
Note: $1 = 1 ARG peso and at the time of the trip $US1 ≈ 4.3 pesos.
Day -3, 12/8/2011 - Left Seattle around 8:30 am for Atlanta where I connected to the Buenos Aires flight. The long, uneventful flight to Bs As left around 8 pm. Sadly no upgrade since it was a frequent flier ticket but that did not preclude me from asking. At least I had an exit row for the 10 hour flight and was able to soundly sleep between dinner and breakfast with the aid of 1 milligram of lorazepam.
Day -2, 12/9/11 - Arrived on time in Bs As, cruised through immigration and did not have to pay for the 10 year validity entry permit since I purchased it last year. Sweated out waiting for my bags containing all the gear and food for 13 days on the mountain (1 day more than last year). Customs was also quick, practically non-existent. Cashed some dollars into pesos at the airport branch of Banco Nacional (good rates). Took the shuttle from EZE to the center, dumped my bags at their office, then proceeded to the nearby
Bridge Crossing the Horcones River
Start of the trek to Confluencia Camp. Retiro bus terminal to purchase an overnight bus ticket to Mendoza. Spent the rest of the day struggling to stay awake so I would sleep on the bus. This would be the second consecutive night not spent in a bed: overnight flight to Bs As followed by an overnight bus ride to Mendoza.
Day -1, 12/10/11 - Pulled in to Mendoza around 10:30 am after a brief stop at 7:30 am for a complimentary breakfast of
medialunas and
cafe con leche. Unlike last year, I opted to spend the night in Mendoza rather than forging straight on to Penitentes. Found Hotel El Nevado right outside the bus terminal which was perfectly fine for one night. Proceeded to the municipal office to buy the climbing permit - a whopping $2200 (almost 3x what I paid in 2004). That is shoulder season price. It goes up to $3000 from mid-December to early March. And the park provides absolutely no services whatsoever, not even a toilet, at base camp or the high camp at Nido de Condores. Also purchased white gas from the same climbing shop where I purchased fuel last year. As expected, I did not have any issues with the
stove unlike 2004. Later I purchased the bus ticket to Penitentes for the following day leaving ~10 am. I then took a
siesta (actually not common in Argentina) before a dinner of salad and ravioli. Argentina has excellent Italian food in addition to world class steaks.
Day 0, 12/11/11 - Left for the 4 hour ride to Penitentes where I split my gear into what I would leave behind (not much), what I would carry on my own to base camp (also not much), and what the mule would carry (alot, 25 kg). Had a steak lunch next door to the
refugio but opted for the
cerveza chica rather than the 1 liter bottle normally included with the set lunch. Dinner was
asado (Argentine BBQ) commencing at the normal time of 10:30 pm and consisting of every variety of meat known to humankind.
Day 1, 12/12/11 - Left for the Horcones ranger station ~10 am. Signed in with the rangers who gave me my numbered garbage bag which would be inspected at check out to make sure it was the same bag and actually contained garbage. I think that's the only task for which they're qualified. Took 2
Another Shot of Pared Sur
Close to Plaza Francia, the base camp for South Face climbs. hours 50 minutes at a leisurely pace to reach Confluencia Camp (3300 meters).
Day 2, 12/13/11 - Acclimatization hike to Plaza Francia (4100 meters) which is the base camp for the South Face. Easy hike, maybe 8 hours round trip with an altitude gain of almost 800 meters. Feeling pretty good. Pretty, pretty good. There was a doctor at camp who administered the mandatory health check, basically pulse, blood oxygen level, and breathing sounds.
No problemas.
Day 3, 12/14/11 - Big day, the toughest for me during prior trips, the dreaded hike to base camp at Plaza de Mulas (4270 meters) which almost killed me in 2004. I was better prepared this time and 2010 being able to carry 4 liters of water. Barely any shade on the ~18 km hike. Took a long rest at Plaza Ibañez, the approximate mid-point. Very disheartening arriving at Ibañez after hiking for 4 hours and there is a sign saying "4 hours to Plaza de Mulas." Total time, including several breaks, was 7 hours 21 minutes from Confluencia to base camp, easily my best time of the 3 trips. I attribute that to the weather being much cooler than the prior
2 trips. I only drank a bit more than 2 liters as opposed to the 4 liters on previous treks. The cooler weather down low was an unknowingly bad omen at the time. Upon arrival at Mulas I checked in with the rangers, guzzled 2 liters of Tang, set up the tent, boiled up Trader Joe's potato gnocchi, topped it off with fresh pesto sauce from a jar, chowed down, and crashed early.
Day 4, 12/15/11 - Rest day.
Day 5, 12/16/11 - Acclimitization hike up to Camp Canada at 4910 meters. Really cold and windy. ~4 hours round trip. Practiced my Russian with some native speakers that I met at Mulas who were camping at Canada.
Day 6, 12/17/11 - Forecast improving so carried a load to Nido. ~7½ hours round trip. Tough day. And cold.
Day 7, 12/18/11 - Forecast now looking bleak so took another rest day instead of moving higher.
Day 8, 12/19/11 - Moved to Nido. Another tough day, windy and cold with the added bonus of a blizzard that blew in out of nowhere about two thirds of the way up. Continued through the storm as all my food
Camp Canada
Cerro Cuerno in the background. and fuel was stashed at Nido. Took forever to set up the tent and get settled in.
Days 9-13, 12/20-12/24/11 - My best impersonation of Bill Murray in "Groundhog Day" without Sonny and Cher crowing in the background. First 3 days were unbelievably cold and windy. I doubt I spent more than 3 hours total outside of the tent solely to take care of business and collect snow for melting. There was an alleged successful summit by a porter on the 24
th under conditions that could be described as extreme: -30°C wind chill with 100 km/hr winds according to the mountain police (they don't call themselves rangers). That's -22°F and 63 mph.
Day 14, 12/25/11 - Aborted summit attempt but fortunately we decided at 5:30 am before I even got out of my sleeping bag. Smart move as we later found out from other climbers who attempted to summit (20 or so in all we heard) and were forced to turn around at Independencia Hut because of high winds. The weather around Nido was fine so we went for a short hike to Berlin Camp (6000 meters) taking 1 hour and 40 minutes one way.
Day 15,
Plaza de Mulas
On the descent from Camp Canada. Cerro Bonate, ~5200 meters ASL, in the far distance. 12/26/11 - Summit attempt and in all likelihood my last shot at Aconcagua. Details:
06:11- Left Nido under calm but not too clear conditions.
07:52 - Arrived at Berlin Camp.
10:11 - Arrived at Independencia Hut @ 6400 meters, donned crampons. There was much more snow than last year.
12:45 - Arrived at the base of the infamous
Canaleta, a nasty scree and talus field below the summit ridge. The
Canaleta was actually not the worst part of the climb as is normally purported. There was much more snow all over the mountain than in years past with the downside being that it was also much colder at every stage. The stretch from Independencia to the base of the
Canaleta was the toughest for me. The last 500 meters (about one third of the total elevation gain from Nido to the summit) took over half the total time on the ascent. Additionally, the wind completely died down and the sun same out just as the path steepened significantly so all that warm clothing became a hinderance. I could take ~15 steps then double over for a couple of minutes gasping for O2. Everytime I looked up
Sorro Alpino
Alpine fox at Plaza de Mulas. Also saw a condor from a distance on the same day. I could see climbers above me doing the same.
14:43 - Arrived at the summit @ 6962 meters.
15:45 - Depart summit after way too much dawdling.
18:51 - Arrived back at Nido.
Day 16, 12/27/11 - Move back to base camp.
Day 17, 12/28/11 - Pack up the bag for the mule and hike all the way out to Horcones. José from the
refugio picked me up at 4:15 pm. We picked up my duffel from the
arriero and returned to the hostel where I left my gear before the climb. Quickly sorted through my various packs and duffels, haphazardly reorganizing clothes, toiletries, and climbing gear for the imminent and interminably long bus trips. The Mendoza bus arrived on time at 5 pm and I got the last seat. Unfortunately for my neighbor I did not have time to shower at the hostel. But I'd only gone 17 days without bathing. The best part of the trip was at the 15 minute stop in Uspallata where I bought the biggest sandwich you never heard of,
milanesa completa - a massive steak sandwich with ham, cheese, fried egg, lettuce, tomato, and dreaded mayonnaise which I
forgot about. Also forgot that it was being held together with 3 plastic toothpicks, 1 after I removed the first and crunched through the middle one. Bought a ticket from Mendoza to Bs As which would arrive at 12:30 pm the following day. The next bus to Mar del Plata was leaving at 2:30 pm on the 29
th. I bought the last seat and had time to write a quick blog entry and eat a cheeseburger with fries. Unfortunately, still no shower. It happens sometimes. Got to the Mardel terminal ~8 pm and by 9:30 pm I was freshly showered and gorging myself senseless at the Chinese run all you can cram buffet.
Mendoza
Transport and Accomodation Took Chevallier from Bs As,
semi cama (bed) and decent service for $375. Left around 8:20 pm and arrived at 10:30 am. Expreso Uspallata runs from Mendoza to Penitentes and Puente del Inca 3 or 4 times a day in about 3.5 hours for $26.50. There is left luggage in Mendoza's bus terminal but I don't know the cost (last year it was $10/large piece for 24 hours or fraction thereof). A single at Hotel El Nevado with private bathroom, fan, and
Snowbound at Nido
Never ending and losing battle keeping the snow out of the vestibule. I sacrificed being able to zip it shut in order to weigh it down with dozens of rocks so it wouldn't get shredded in the wind. TV went for $120. A lame breakfast of cookies is included although the
cafe con leche was nice. Returning to Bs As I went with Cata Internacional, also
semi cama and $375.
Mar del Plata
Accommodation and food Hotel Molise, where I stayed last year, was closed which was a bummer. I got a room next door at Hotel Oasis for $160 for the first night then saved a little by paying US$35 for the next 2 nights. A good breakfast is included. Prices were high because of the Dakar Road Rally, formerly Paris to Dakar but moved to South America several years ago. Until this year the race started in Buenos Aires but now it starts in Mardel so the place is packed with race crews and fans.
There is definitely no shortage of places to eat in Mardel. It appears that the entire city is comprised solely of hotels, restaurants, cafes, and bars. Portofino (Belgrano & Corrientes) is a nice cafe with good breakfasts and stuffed pizza. Cafe Los Olivos (Moreno & Estera) is a cheap hole in the wall but served good sandwiches and juices. Went to one
tenedor libre which literally means "free fork" but is
Camped out at Nido for 8 days and nights
Tent held up very well under brutal conditions. actually a massive, highly varied buffet common all over the country that I've only seen in restaurants run by Chinese immigrants. Anyway, the place is La Yerra on the 2900 block of Belgrano. All you can eat including
parilla is $36 (only up $4 from last year, a bargain), probably the cheapest in Mar, and a 375 ml bottle of decent Argentine wine is ~$15 (also up only a bit from last year). One more restaurant - Picante (Peatonal & Corrientes) - does brisk business serving pizzas and huge sandwiches. These were all the places I frequented last year too and they are all still really good. Near the beach are a few unassuming, but constantly mobbed, places serving
super panchos (hot dogs) and
choripan (sausage with bread,
chorizo +
pan =
choripan, very clever). Hot dogs run ~$6, sausage for ~$10. I got one or the other for my second lunch of the day. A new addition this year is El Portillo right around the corner from the hotel south on Belgrano. It is strictly takeout but really good and cheap. A
porcion is actually for 2 people but that did not preclude me from ordering a
porcion albondigas con batata (baseball sized meatballs with something resembling green acorn squash) for $22. Better to order
medio porcion if dining solo.
Transport Manuel Tienda Leon shuttle from Mardel direct to EZE for $260 (up from $190 last year, ridiculous inflation in Argentina) which is really convenient to go straight from the beach to the airport. It is a 6 hour trip with ~30 minutes for a meal break halfway through the trip. Nice bus, toilet on board, movies and about a dozen departures throughout the day. Mercifully, they did not show "The Ghosts of Girlfriends Past" like they did last year.
Buenos Aires
Accommodation The airline put me up at the Hotel Emperador for the night after I volunteered to be bumped. Another 5 star luxury stay. So fine. By the time we got to the hotel from the airport only the bar was open for dinner which was OK but the breakfast buffet and lunch were excellent.
Transport Manuel Tienda Leon shuttle from EZE to downtown Bs As leaves about every 30 minutes for $60 (up from $45 last year) with an extra $5 for drop off service anywhere in the city. But do not use the drop
Summit and Canaleta
Canaleta is the right edge of the photo. Not too bad this year as it was mostly covered in snow. Can see a group of climbers right of center. off service for a transfer to Retiro as they drop you at the curb and there is a long way to walk from there to the buses. Take a taxi from their main office or walk as Retiro is close enough carrying little baggage. The office also has luggage storage for $10. To Mardel I took Condor Estrella for $150 departing 14:30, arriving 20:00. Long, boring ride after taking buses from Penitentes to Mendoza to Bs As.
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Mark
non-member comment
Congratulations!!!
Glad to hear it was a successful climb especially after waiting out bad weather for so many days so high up on the mountain. That's determination. Sounds like a perfectly executed climb. Nice one!