The Puna

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We´ve travelled about 3000km since Buenos Aires over six days. Tired is not the word...

First, the trip to the Andean northwest of Argentina. I think that we may have mislead you a little. The bus journey to Salta was only 18 hours, not the 22 promised. Also, we have to admit that we travelled premium class. Well, it was only 4 GBP more than standard class and once we saw a picture of leather seats that reclined all the way to flat it was a sealed deal. It was the most comfortable coach I have ever been on. Eight hours of kip and numerous others learning Spanish and gazing at the countryside of the Chaco later we were in Salta.

Salta is very relaxed. The locals, Argentine tourists and travellers all mill around the streets of the old colonial town. However, it´s mountains we came here to see so after one night we hightailed it into the foothills of the Andes. The scenery on the way up to Cachi is breathtaking. Apparently, when babies are crying on the bus on this route mothers will hold them up to the window, which soon shuts them up. The road winds around towering peaks which plummet down to the valley below. There are outcrops of rock heavy with red Iron Oxide and green Copper deposits, which lend an eerie air to the view. As you rise to the pass at 3,400 metres the view becomes spectacular with clouds rushing up from below to temporarily engulf you in a sea of mist.

We made the trip with two mathematics lecturers from Bahia Blanca, both of whom were heavily addicted to Mate, the national drink. Mate consists of Yerba (a plant grown near the Brazilian border) and hot water. The Yerba is placed in a specially treated gourd which is then covered in water. You then drink through a bomberillo, which is a metal straw with an in-built filter at the end. It´s a very social drink that is passed around and enjoyed together. Mate contains a fair amount of caffeine and has a gentle but powerful kick to it. The journey up to the Puna consisted of heady mix of Mate, beautiful views and rapidly increasing altitude.

At the pass we spied two condors circling the sky not too far away, skidded to a halt and leapt out of the 4x4 to get a better look. One of the Condors was keen not to disappoint and set course straight for us. Over the course of about three minutes he circled closer and closer until he was only fifteen feet away. Our guide, Marcello said that he had never seen one so close. We became a little concerned that the Condor meant to steal Suse away and take her to his mountain lair whilst beating off helicopters in a King Kong like fashion...

Condors are absolutely enormous. Their wingspans can reach up to 4 metres. It was a real privilege to watch such a fine creature.

The road levelled out onto a huge plain covered with huge Cacti. Some were over 6 metres tall, which when you consider that they grow only 1 cm per year, makes them rather old. The plains are very wild west, surrounded by ruddy outcrops of jagged rock. Indeed, Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid used to ply their trade only a little further north. Visiting Cachi only served to reinforce this impression. Its church is straight out of a western.

The bumpy trip to Cafayate skirts the Puna, with cracking views of the snow capped Andes peaks behind. The lanscape is lunar at times. You feel like you´re on a Star Wars set.

We also visited the ruins of Quilmes, whose tribe held off the Spanish for 130 years. These people were around before the Inca but had been assimilated as the Incas drove south through the Andes. Once their resistance was finally broken by the Spanish they were marched to Buenos Aires. Only 400 of the 2000 that set out survived the journey. The remainder decided not to have any more children and the tribe died out. Only the name Quilmes remains as a popular brand of beer. The sadness of this story is reflected in the ruins, which are stacked against a hillside in the Puna outside Cafayate. It is a melancholy but fascinating place to visit. The rooms are bounded by thick stone walls and each home was interconnected forming quite a labyrinth. The closeness of these peoples was no doubt part of the reason that they were able to hold out against the Spanish for so long.

Cafayate was fun. It´s a bit of a tourist town now but Mercello found us lodgings in the house of a lovely lady. We had dinner at El Patio throughout which we were loudly serenaded by Yerba Altiplano, a local two-piece band. The elder musician was proficient with numerous Andean instruments, the significance and history of which he explained before each song. He was also a past master at playing the crowd and enthusiastically asked the assembled throng (five tables of diners) where they came from. Each answer was greeted with a round of applause from the whole restaurant. Inglaterra received warm reception from everyone.

I have always had at the back of my mind that it is not really that long since our two countries were at war over the Falklands (or Los Islas Malvinas). In Buenos Aires we came across a memorial to the dead from that war, which is constantly flanked by soldiers in ceremonial uniforms. I was concerned that feelings might run deeper than anticipated and that we might encounter negative responses. However, the warmth of the Argentinians has been incredible. Virtually everyone we have met has been curteous, helpful and most have been downright charming. A case in point is the owner of the camera shop in Salta. After having discussed the merits of particular types of batteries for a digital camera he looked at us and said:

"You´re in my town now. Now you must do something for me. Enjoy Salta. Do everything you can and remember you are always welcome here."

We left Argentina yesterday morning having had a wonderful time and having met some fantastic people. We left via Pocitos and after a seven km hike with full packs arrived in Yacuiba, Bolivia. A good bus connection saw us arrive in Santa Cruz (Bolivia´s second largest city) some 18 hours after having left Salta. After a few days R and R (we have been travelling constantly for five days now) we´re going to try to get into the Amazonian Basin and up into the high Andes.

Hasta luego amigos

Tom & snooze

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