From Buenos Aires to the End of the World

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On Christmas Day I catched the bus to Bariloche in the Lake District. Bariloche and its surroundings are full of possible day trips and therefore I decided to spend some time here. I arrived after another 20 hour bus drive and got into a really nice hostel with an astonishing view over the lake and the mountains in the background. I took it easy and relaxed for the day before checking out all the possible trips.

The first trip the next day lead me to Mount Tronador (Thunder Mountain). After pick up we drove to the National Park and stopped first for a little hike to a waterfall. Following that the road lead further into the park along the shore of a lake, where we stopped for taking pictures of the views. Finally after lunch we reached Mount Tronador, over 3400 meters high, surrounded by snow and ice. It was time to find out, why they called it Thunder Mountain, nearly every 30 min or so a pice of ice will crack and fall down with loud thundering noise. We were lucky and after waiting for 20 minutes we observed the spectacle and the noise! Before heading back we walked up another path to get closer to the snow fields and enjoy a better view on the surrounding mountains.

The following day we, two girls from the hostel and I, decided to mount a bike and cycle aournd the lake in the Nahuel Huapi National Park. We started off with amazing view on the LaoLao Hotel and the lake, heading to the Swiss Colony (not quite sure what was so Swiss about it, but seems the first settlers in the area were Swiss). Unfortunately it started pouring down with rain once we left the colony and we spent the next 2 hours biking in the rain. Therefore the view was rather bad, but still I could imagin that the surroundings must be beautiful on a sunny day!

After such a rainy day I spend the next day doing nothing but enjoying the view from the hostel. I meet an Argentine girl that night and she asked me if I want to join her and another friend for a trip to the Peninsula Villa Angostura. Early next morning it took as an hour bus ride to the village from where we organised the trip to the peninsuals National Park. Once we got to the entrance of the park we rented mountains bike and off we go to a 12km ride through the forrest. The first part was really steep and not rideable but once the 1st km was behind us, the trail was easy to ride and I really enjoyed being on a mountain bike again after such a long time. After 3 hours easy riding we arrived at the end of the peninsula where we settled down for lunch with an amazing view over the lake and the mountains in the background. The weather was just right and we cycled back enjoying sunshine and warm temperatures.

It was New Years Eve day and for me another reason to relax. Still I managed to head out with one of the girls I meet in the hostel for a short walk to some waterfalls. The night I spend in the hostel celebrating into the new year.
Wisely I spend one more day in Bariloche to recover from New Years eve before I catched the bus to move on. One week seemed such a long time and I was actually looking forward to get going. The next stop was Puerto Varas in Chile, with another boarder crossing. But also this one was smooth, I only got a little bit into trouble, because I did not declare an apple :-)

Puerto Varas is a little sleepy town by the lake, from where many trails lead to the Volcano Osorno, a ski resort in winter. The next day I made my way to the the volcano, catching a bus and drive for an hour to another lake. From there I walked towards the volcano, but as it is with volcanos, they are seldom free of clouds. The day started off really foggy, but by now the volcano was nearly visible. It was just a short walktowards the volcano before I visited the ice-blue waterfalls and the green lagoon before heading back to the hostel.

I tried to find a way to travel south in Chile, unfortunately it was not that easy. I could not find a ferry nor a bus. I decided to visit first Chiloe, which was supposed to be very beautiful, but also rainy. Which I of course experienced on the day I arrived, it was just pouring down. I spend the afternoon with other hostel guest playing Uno and staying in the warm and dry inside.
After many failed attempts to travel south by bus or ferry, I decided to take a shortcut and fly to Punto Arenas, which was possible with a relatively cheap flight late at night. The next day the sun was shining and before leaving Chiloe without seeing anything again, I spend the morning walking along the beach. I catched the flight and arrived late in Punto Arenas, where I only spend a night.

The next morning I was trying to organise a ticket to Puerto Natales and thanks to the owner of the hostel (in which I think I was the only guest that night) I was 15 min later in bus heading north. I arrived in Puerto Natales just in time to attend the 3 o'clock presentation at the Erratic Rock Hostel, which gives information about the treks in the Torres del Paine National Park. I heard many times before from different travellers about the trek and everyone told me to do at least the 5-day trek if not 10 days. After the talk I was convinced but was looking for some company. Unfortunately I could not find anyone that nor the next day, who wants to head out together, so I decided to do it on my own. Well, you will never be alone on this trek, it is well known and many people are heading out.

So I rented all my equipment, bought food and packed a view personal belongings and at 7.30 am the next morning I was heading with about 13-14kg on my back to Torres del Paine. It starts with a 2.5 hours bus ride to get to the ferry, taking us to the starting point of the trail. Once arrived there I headed straight out to avoid the masses. The weather was good, a bit of rain but sun as well (typicall in Patagonia, you can have 4 seasons in one day) and after few hunderd meters I was into the right pace. Once I got up a hill I was rewarded with an amazing view on the Grey Glacier, which I had in constant view going up until the first camp. The last km was just steep and prayed for the camp to come soon. Not many people made it up there so there were only 5 tents for the night.

The next morning I woke up with rain hammering on my tent. The first part of the day was walking the same way back as the day before, just now in the rain. The view on the glacier wasn't that nice anymore and I was glad I saw it the day before. After reaching the ferry pier again, I stopped for lunch at the restaurant and than walked for another 2 hours to the next camp, which was full this time.

The third day starts easier, as I could leave everything behind and hike up the Valle Frances. The weather was still a bit cloudy and mountains were surrounded by fogs, but still the view was impressiv. Passing the glaciar I watched how pieces of ice broke and fell into the valley with thundering noises, which I could hear also at night. Once back in the camp I had a quick lunch, packed my tent and headed to the next campeground, Los Cuerrnos. This was a private camp ground and offered a restaurant as well as bathrooms and showers. What a release it was to take a hot shower and for a change eat a decent meal with meat (and not only pasta or soup).

First thing I realised when waking up the next morning was the blue sky and sunshine, the area seemed even more beautiful! I headed to the last big part, supposed to be the hardest. The area changed slightly and instead high mountains I was surrounded by lakes and green hills. After 3 hours it went up the hill into a green valley with snowy mountains in the background. It was not as bad as I thought and I soon reached the camp. The camp lies at the end of the valley and is used as a starting point to go up to Los Torres (The Towers). After I started freezing just hanging around in my tent I decided to go up to the Towers already now, as I was actually planning to do it in the early morning to see the sunrise. I took me 45 min up a steep hill, just to see the torres in clouds again.

The night was freezing cold and I was not too sad to get up at 5 am in the morning and start moving! But also this time luck was not on my side and I only saw the torres in fogg, even if the sun came up after a while on the other side. On the way back to the camp I was even walking in a snow storm (guess a good preparation to return to Europe!!!). It was soo cold that I immediately headed down to the finish of the trek. On the way down the sun came out, the weather cleared and it was a nice walk back. After another 4.5 hours of hiking that day I finished the W-Trek in Torres Del Paine and I was not only happy and proud to have done it but also amazed by what I saw! This of course asked for a great dinner in company of other hikers! (I must say it was not so bad to do the trek alone, I got the tent for myself and could walk at my own pace.)

The next morning I was off to Ushuaia, the most southern town in Argentina, also called The End of the World! By bus we first crossed a channel with a ferry and than into Argentina, where I arrived at my destination in the evening.

I did not like to hostel I booked at first so I changed the next morning and once arrived at the new one, I was helped to organise the short time I had. The same afternoon I went up the the Glacier. But I guess after seeing Grey Glacier, this was just a disappointment. In fact I did not even see the glaciar, as it was raining and cloudy. For the next day I planned a hike in the Tierra del Fuego National Park. A minivan picked me up and dropped me off at the start of a costal hiking trail, which I followed for a couple of hours. By 2 pm in the afternoon I headed back into town, where I booked a walk with the pinguines! First we drove for 1.5 hours further south in a bus, than took a boat to one of the island, which was full of penguines! The little ones were so cute, it was a great opportunity to see them so close up!

Ushuaia is now also the point of return for me. From here I only have 3 weeks left to travel up north before a flight back to Switzerland awaits me in Buenos Aires. I can't belive how fast time goes by, but so far it was a trip of a lifetime!

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