Calefate - Going South


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South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Calafate
November 19th 2007
Published: November 19th 2007
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El Calafate - Main StreetEl Calafate - Main StreetEl Calafate - Main Street

El Calafate is thriving, busy little tourist town - lots of restaurants, plus hiking, souvenir and clothes shops.
Mon 19th Nov:
Saturday morning was domestic and planning time for the days ahead. I got a bike from the hostel and tried some of the airline companies for flights from Calefate to Ushuiaia and eventually booked one. I´m planning to go direct from Ushuiaia to Bariloche, so when I got back to the hostel 'managed to reserve a cheap flight for 23rd. 'Did laundry, packed and checked out - got to the coach station with time to spare .... in fact a lot of time to spare as the coach was well over an hour late - no reason given .. "this is Argentina!" The coach was comfortable (Cama), which I was pleased about as it was going to be a long journey. We were due to arrive in Rio Gallagos (along the SE coast) at 7:15am where I needed to get another coach to Calefate.
Slept OK, but 8:30am and still on the road. The landscape changed from monotonous flat unproductive land to rolling hills with some sheep and ostriches grazing. Also saw a flock of pink flamingoes in the bed of an almost dried up lake. Periodically we came across roadside shrines, common throughout all of Argentina. When
The Nature ReserveThe Nature ReserveThe Nature Reserve

After travelling for over 23 hours, I needed some exercise so had a long walk around this bird sanctuary, mainly made up of marshland and lagoons. The only problem was that the wind was so strong that I could hardly stand.
I saw them first I thought they were dog kennels for the numerous stray dogs around. They vary in size but nost are small and ornately decorated with flowers or bunting. Many have a statue of the Virgin Mary in them. There were a few police check-points en route where they checked the details of everyone on board, right down to their age!
Eventually arrived in Rio Gallegos at 10:10am, and consequently missed my connection to Calefate. I found a company with a coach leaving at 1:30. Had some breakfast and freshened up while I waited. The next coach trip was uneventful until we were aproaching the town where the scenery was spectacular. I booked into a small family hostel and settled in. After over 23 hours of travelling I needed some exercise, so I went for a walk outside the town to a nature reserve; it was mainly a bird sanctuary in a scenic area of marshland and lagoons. It as a lovely area but the wind was very strong and cold, so much so it was difficult to stand at times. The manager of the nature reserve said that this was common in the spring. Despite the wind the sun was strong. Lots of species of different birds from the beautiful pink flamingos to some rare ducks and geese.
´Had a meal in the town centre - spoilt for choice of restaurants and cafes; the town is very much geared towards tourists with many souvenir, travel and clothes shops. However the prices also reflect this. It´s a lively little town bustling with tourists.
This morning I confirmed my flight from Ushuiaia to Bariloche and did some shopping. I plan to go and see the Perito Moreno Glacier this afternoon; the bus leaves at 3:00 and gets back about 9:30, but it is about an hour and a half´s journey there.


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