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Published: November 16th 2007
Eco Centre at Puerto Madryn
This was a five Km cycle ride outside the city but worth getting there - a relatively new centre well set out with lots of information on whales and different marine species of the area.Fri. 16th Nov:
The El Gualicho Hostel in Puerto Madryn is quite good - clean and good value. I booked in for Friday night as well, since I plan to come back to Puerto Madryn to catch the coach down to Calefate in the southeast. Yesterday morning I made my way to the bus station and had some time to spare bofore getting it to Puerto Pyramides, so I looked into booking a ticket to Calefate for Saturday. It seems that there is no direct coach there so I needed to get ticket from two separate companies, one to Rio Gallegos and another from there to Calefate. The omnibus took an hour and a half to get to Puerto Pyramides. It is just a small village but the largest settlement on the peninsula. Though we had clear skies the wind was very strong, so strong there were no boat trips out to see the whales. It scuppered all my plans for a sunset boat ride and a tour around by bike in the afternoon. Instead, after checking into the hostel (cheap and cheerful), I went for a long hike across the hills and down along the beach (about 12Km) where there
Skeleton of Right Whale
Outside the Eco Centre was this huge skeleton of the right whale. I was told they´re called right whales because whalers said they are the right whales to hunt as they are very friendly, can be easily hunted and they float easily when killed. was a fauna reserve and lots of sea birds - some species I had never seen before....but no sea lions or penguins. ´Saw the sand pyramids (formed from erosion) after which the village got its name. Tried to book a tour for tomorrow but none of the companies would take any credit cards, and the only cash machine in the village was out of money! ´Had a little cash but not enough for tours. At the local mini-market I got the butcher there to cut me two steaks, bought some rice, lettuce and a bottle of wine.. and cooked a good meal for just A$8 (about one pound forty!). I booked a bike on tick for tomorrow and this was dropped round to the hostel by the owner of the bike shop with his wife and child. They made it a real social occasion and stayed for a long time chatting. A late night but a good day considering all the hiccups.
Didn´t wake up until after 8 this morning; it was very windy during the night but much calmer this morning and warmer. I cycled along the coast and to the next village. On the way back I noticed
View from a Port Hole
Inside the Eco Centre the tower section had a number of port holes, this is the view towards Puerto Madryn from one. a security van parked near the cash machine, but as I approached it two armed guards made it clear I wasn´t to proceed any further. I booked a boat trip on a promise of paying later. We left with about thirty in the boat and as we passed near the coastal area I walked yesterday we saw acouple of sea lions. The boat had to travel out quite a distance before we caught sight of our first whale. It was the first of many. They were not timid and surfaced very close to the boat, circling it - lots of photo opportunities, though it was sometimes difficult with the rolling of the boat. We were out there for about two hours and had some fantastic sightings.
Got some money from the cash machine and paid my debts.´Tried to get an excursion around the peninsula but most had left earlier in the morning. After lunch had a walk along the beach, while I waited for the omnibus back to Puerto Madryn (the only bus), where I´ll spend tonight before travelling to Rio Gallegos tomorrow.
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