4WD Journey to Baguales Peninsula, nr Bariloche

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Journey to Baguales Peninsula

The journey to the Baguales Peninsula on Lake Nahuel Huapi had not been easy. Although the high winds had subsided, the last 20km or so was on low quality, unpaved roads through the farmland of various landowners in the region. The roads were cluttered with pothles, collapsed sections and long cracks. After a while the tarmac finished completely and we continued on no more than dirt tracks, sodden and uneven from the recent rain falls.

Occasionally the land rovers had to stop at a gate as we passed from the fields of one landowner to another. Often these gates were accompanied by a barrier overhead, generally too low for a vehicle laden with rucksacks to clear. We therefore had to drive off the main track and through the fields to find another crossing point.

As the muddy track approached a slope, the car in front driven by the two university scientists on the project became bogged down and unable to move. We hastily found dead trees and broken branches to lay under the wheels to allow the vehicle to gain traction once again. There was no option but to use a different track around this stretch, and the land rovers headed off amongst the trees and bushes in search of a route.

Back on the main track once more, we forded a river, the water splashing up aroud the wheel arches of the vehicle. We had made good progress so far, but only a few kilometres from our destination, we were halted by two massive fallen trees lying across the road which had come down that night in the storms. The area was dense with trees and on a steep slope, and although scouting parties were despatched to find another way round, this proved impossible.

The scientists telephoned ahead to the landowner of the property we were on and he agreed to send some of his men shortly with a chainsaw to remove the obstruction. We were advised that th men would arrive soon, but it was some four hours later when they arrived - one on horseback and a handful in a 4WD. Two farm dogs had also come along for the ride.

The men quickly set to work on the trees, wood splinters flying off the whirring saw chains. They refused all help in moving the broken trunks from the road, and silently and intently went about their work. In about half and hour the way was clear and we were able to proceed. The landowner and his men followed behind in case there were further problems up ahead.

More difficulties lay about 30 minutes along the road. We had been climbing steadily for some time, passing up above the snow line. The vehicles splashed through the slushy snow while larger and larger drifts built up on either side of the track. At one point, the road swung sharply left and uphill. This proved too much even for the 4WDs. Snowchains were produced from the back of the vehicles and fitted to the rear wheels. After much slithering in the muddy snow and revving of engines, the cars made their way up the slope.

The track onwards was narrow and steep in places, making all driving difficult. We had reached the top of a ridge and then plunged down the other side, the distorted angles of the lake beneath showing the true sharpness of our descent. Eventually the trees cleared and we saw a large wooden hunting lodge set by the edge of the ridge overlooking the lake. This was to be our sleeping place for the next two nights, for the heavy snowfall all around had persuaded the landowner that we should sleep here rather than in our tents as planned.

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