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Published: August 7th 2007
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Well, what can I say, Patagonia is truly one of our worlds delights, a great excape from city life and a chance to get some fresh, and cold, air. I must admit, Buenos Aires was getting me down, I regret not using my time more wisely whilst I was there, maybe improve my spanish by attending some classes, possibly some volunteering, but I dont miss working with children that much.Anyway I was hanging around waiting for my friend from Melbourne, Jem, to join me for 2 weeks. I had already booked some flights from BA to Rio Gallegos 2 days after Jem arrived and I couldn't wait to get the hell out of BA. Before we left, a spot of shopping for thermal underwear was required and im so glad we did, they were definately a requirement in Patagonia during this time of year! The low level of attractiveness I sometimes feel about myself considerably plummeted when I doned my oversized top and close to mens size trousers. Tell you what, nothing makes a girl feel as sexy as having Long johns come half way up her back! It did the trick though, kept me warm enough.
Back to the story
Car shadow
Sunrise, on our way to Perito Moreno Glacier after a pleasant 3am wake up we made out to our 5.30am 4 hour flight with bleary eyes. If the flight wasn't enough, when we arrived in Rio Gallegos, we had to get a taxi to the bus terminal, wait for about one and a half hours, and get a bus ride to El Calafate that took another 4 hours!
El Calafate is a cute little town, streets are lined with cottage inspired shops, cafes and restaurants, and is a base for people visiting Parque Nacional Los Glaciares . This protected National Park holds some of the most breathtaking scenary I have ever seen, and not to mention heaps of Glaciers, milky light blue water and Iceburgs. Jem and I spent a couple of days touring the Glaciers on foot and boat, when you are in front of the Glacires an errie quietness sets in and makes you feel like you are not ment to be there at all, like its forbidden. I was scared to even Fart! (Jem will tell you that is a complete lie, but dont believe her). The sheer size and sole existance of the Glaciers is like a phenomenon to me. Perito Merino Glacier
Jump!
Perito Moreno! is one of the most popular, It moves forward 2 metres every day untill it reaches the land opposite and forms an ice dam, causing the waters of Brazo Rico (Lake) to rise. After the pressure builds up the ice starts to break away, making a bridge over the water from the Glacier to the rocks. Then one day, it collapses, providing a spectacular show to its audience. This happens about once every 2 years, and no, I wasn't there to see it, but after viewing shavings of the glacier splinter off and fall into the water below, I can only imagine what it would be like. (Actually, Jem and I watched a video of the 2004 Break in a shop window and was HUGE). There was one thing about El Calafate Jem and I found Hilarious, the stray dogs. Now dont get me wrong, these were not you run of the mill ugly, skinny, limping and balding road mutts, they were actual fat, happy, non-limping pure bred dogs. There was a German shepherd, Alaskan Malamute, Olde English sheepdog and even a Dachshund poked his head out one night when we were walking back from dinner!
It was Bizzare!
Osorno Volcano
Taken From the hire car on our way home from visiting the 7 lakes! After seeing all we could and eat all the chocolate we could, it was time to move on to El Chalten for the night to do some trekking and say hello to " Cerro Fitz Roy"! Fortunately for us, we had great weather, blue skies, light wind and the sun was out in full swing! After another 4 hour bus ride, and a visit to the Rangers office,we got dropped off a the door of our hostel (how's that?) and made plans to take full advantage of the stunning weather! A 6 hour trek was what Jem and I decided to Laguna Torre (3 hours there and back), I have to admit it was the most physical thing I had done since climbing Moses Mountain in Sinai! It was well worth it and we were rewarded with beautiful views, and the grueling walk back (which was colder due to the setting sun). That night Jem had to yell at me to get out of the shower, I think I was in there for at least half and hour, and we both went to bed planning another short trek the next day to Cerro Fitz Roy. However, we woke up only
to realise that it had snowed 10-15cm overnight! Our Trekking plans had gone out the window, and we spent most of the day in front of the TV and Drinking Mate!(pronounced "Matay" not as in "G'day Mate")
Next on the List was Bariloche, the Lake District of Argentina! A 36 hour bus ride got us there, and we arrived tired, smelly, hungry and in desperate need of some clean clothes! Bariloche is famous for its lakes, National Parks and Chocolate, which were all sampled by Jem and Myself. Plus I got to meet up with A friend from Buenos Aires, Christine! We hired a car for a day and sampled some of the finest dirt roads Argentina has to offer! I even drove, I was a bit nervous at the start, everything being on the opposite side and all, but after turning the windscreen wipers on instead of the indicator a few times, I eventually got used to it. There was also the "Almost running out of Petrol incident", with no towns in sight for Km's, the red petrol light on, and the gauge dipping even futher into the "Red" we all acepted the fact that we may have
Late Sunset!
I took this photo at 9.30am, when the sun was rising! top get out and push at some stage. Eventually we all sighed with relief when we came upon a Petrol station.
Back to BA, I had to say goodbye to Jem as she was returning home to Melbourne and I moved on to Mendoza, the wine region!
Apologies for the lack of details, im on the road again and Im spending too much time in internet cafes!
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