IGUAZU FALLS - A NATURAL WONDER

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We had taken the decision some months before not to travel to Puerto Iguazu. We changed our mind after meeting Grace in bariloche who showed us a video of the place. So after a very long journey we set off from the bus station to find our hostel. We got lost and a bit stressed as time was of the essence we only had one afternoon and the following morning to see everything before we left to go back to Buenos Aires and our connecting bus to Cordoba. Eventually we found our place and after a quick shower and change headed back to the bus station to get the local bus to the national park.

It took 30 minutes to get up to the park and by the time we had paid our entrance it was close to 3pm. Looking a bit dazed and lost one of the park attendants helped us plan a route around the park and advised us what we would have time to see in our 3 hours before the park closed.

The Iguazu national park is home to the Iguazu waterfalls. There are 275 falls that cover an immense 1.67 miles in width. The falls border both the Brazil and Argentina although two thirds of them are on the Aregetine side. The footage we had seen of them looked amazing. The historic story to their creation explains that one of the gods planned to marry an aborigine girl called Naipi, she decided to flee with her lover and in his rage the god sliced the river in half condemning them to their death and in the process creating these gigantic falls. They were first discovered by the spanish in the 15th century.

We set off for the largest of the falls which was a couple of stops on the little passenger train through the park. The train was painfully slow but eventually we got there and followed the signs along with everyone else to the falls. The walkways are made of steel and stretch across the river. It is a good 20 minute walk to these falls and it was slightly frustrating getting stuck behind meandering tourists. Finally we arrived at an opening on the walkways and although the weather was dull and damp the views were still unbelievable. Neither of us have seen such a vast amount of water covering such a huge distance and every other waterfall we had seen on our travels faded into insignificance. The walkways were very busy with everyone trying to get the best view but with a little patience you can see them from every platform. The viewing platforms are from the side of the them so you cannot see the full force head on but even so it is mind boggling. The platforms are actually anchored directly above the falls too so when you look over you are actually staring down the sheer drop that the water torrents over. Slightly knee bending but a massive feat of engineering. We stayed a while getting soaked by the spray and then decided to head back to our second place which was a walk though the higher viewing platforms of the other waterfalls in the park.

Hopping back on the train and getting seriously squashed by other passengers cramming themselves on we finally hit the stop. Squeezing out and heading off (firstly in the wrong direction and then retracing our steps) we found ourselves at another set of walkways. Following them along they opened out every so often to a view point. The first one was not so great so we continued along the path and all of a sudden there they are and there are so many you dont know which direction to look. Masses of water falling at various heights and falling directly into the basin of the river the views were spectacular (and this was a dull day). We were conscious of time but followed the track to the end where you can look back at the waterfalls you were stood over a few minutes before. So impressive!! Meandering back through the trail we studied the views further and could see that there was a lower trail too that got you very close to the bottom of some of the falls we were stood on top of. We could also see the viewing platforms for San Martin Island in the middle of the river which gave a viewing point for one of the larger falls of the many that were there. The island was closed on that afternoon due to high water levels but instead of travelling over to the Brazilian side which we were originally going to do the next day we decided that the Argentinian side had much more to see and arranged our passes on the way out to return the next day. You get your second day half price so that was good. Dashing for the bus back to the town we squeezed on with what felt like hundreds of other pople and everyone was standing nose to nose as it was the last bus of the day. The journey was a bit smelly and uncomfortable but we were so impressed by our afternoon that it didnt really matter. Finally reaching the bus station we set off in search of food as we had not eaten all day. Im sure at this point you will not be shocked to find that we hit a parrilla at full force with tenderloin on the brain and had an absolutely delightful meal. Tim had the baby beef which was simply the biggest and tenderest steak I have seen. I settled for the ribeye with pepper sauce and was not disappointed. Obvously there was a little vino tino to wash down this delightful ensemble!!!!!!

Getting up very early we were checked out and had put our luggage into storage by 7.30am the next morning. Our bus to BA was at 4pm so we needed to be back at the station no later than 3pm. It meant taking the 2.15pm bus out of the park and we could not afford to be late. We arrived at the park and having discussed our options the night before had decided to look into one of the boat journeys around the falls. They were 120 pesos (20 quid) each and we are being careful with our pennies after our bid spends in NZ but we decided that it would be worth it. The day had started promisingly and the sun was rising to a very clear sky. It was still cold but at least it was clear and dry. We booked for the boat and had an hour before the trip started it was not enough time to start any of the trails so we decided to walk to the start point instead of the train. Having stopped for a coffee along the way it was soon time to get on the jeep with about 15 others and start our journey through the jungle. The guide pointed our various different trees and told us about the animals that live in the park but stay well away from the falls and any human contact so we did not see anything of major interest!! We were given waterproof bags for our stuff and I had brought a poncho to try and keep as dry as possible because of our later bus journey. Tim had his full waterproofs but I have managed to loose my trousers which is not good!! Boots in the bag and jeans rolled up we were ready for the off.

The boat cruises down the river right next to the Brazilian border quite strange that the cliff on your right is a different country to the cliff on your left. We went over heavy rapids at times and passed a couple of smaller waterfalls you can only see from the brazilian side or on the boat tour. Then he ramps up the engine to get the boat over to the mass of falls around San Martin Islands back (you cannot see these from the Argentinian walkways). Pulling the boat right up to them we got to take a few photos before we were told the cameras had to go away and he drove the boat under the falls. It was so heavy that I couldnt open my eyes for a time but then as he backed the boat away you cannot do anything but look in awe at their beauty and these are not the biggest. Rounding the island we then stopped for a few more photos before we headed into the larger set of falls now at this point the water is running up my sleeves down my neck and I really didnt care. They are truly amazing and I hope our pictures do them justice. After the boat we dried off as much a possible some people were a lot worse than us.

The boat dropped us off at the lower trail and we walked around that for a couple of hours taking pictures and revelling in the areas beauty. The sun had warmed up and the views were so much better than the day before that we also went back and did the higher trail again. Now I will not go through and describe all that again as their is only so many awesome, beautiful, inspiring and amazing descriptions you can make. Suffice to say that Iguazu Falls have gone in at number two on the top ten list of things we have seen. If you know where we have been you will understand how great they are. The only place holding them off the top spot is Everest/the Himalayas. We are now both interested to see how they compare to Niagara.

We left on time for Bueno Aires a little bit annoyed becuase we were only going back their to get a bus to Cordoba. The bus people in Ba told ud that we could not get a Cordoba bus from Iguazu but there were plenty in the station. It meant 19 unecessary hours but at least we had full beds again.

We got back to BA at around 10am and had our bus out at 10pm. Lots of time to use the internet and hang around but it went quite quickly. We boarded the bus to Cordoba on time for the 10 hour trip overnight. Buses are becoming our main source of sleep at the moment but the quality of them is so good neither of us actually mind...................

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Photos

The falls on the Argentinian side
Pretty impressive!

At the base
made every effort to keep dry on the boat and got soaked for this picture

The walkways
Over the larger waterfall