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South America » Argentina » Mendoza
December 22nd 2005
Published: December 22nd 2005
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Sat 10th.
Just a 2 hour flight instead of 20 hours bussing it - right decision! An airport bus into San Carlos de Bariloche and within the hour we are esconsed in a cosy hotel, with a snow-capped mountain view from our bedroom window. There is a large Swiss community here, so therefore their homes and hotels are very " chalet" like, with wood and antlers everywhere. The icing on the cake are the 4 St. Bernard dogs, complete with puppies, handlers AND brandy barrels, lazing in the square, wanting their photographs taken with tourists. Oh yes, and the view of the lake was absolutely amazing. Surely it can't get any better than this.

Sun.
A 40p bus ride around the lake heading toward the mountains, and yes, the views do get better! A walk in the forest to have lunch and then back down to town, soaking up the scenery again. Growing at the roadside are blue lupins, bright yellow broom, and mission bells in all kinds of colours. Even the roses are spectacular, not a trace of disease - sickening!
The one thing we don't envy them having is a moss-like parasite, clinging to the tree branches. It looks quite innocent, but once established, it sucks all the sap from the tree, leaving a bare-leaved, white skeleton which eventually falls over, dead! The tree can be young, old, big or small - it still gets sucked dry. 40 years, this has been going on, with no solution in sight - frightening.

Mon.
We took a 1 1/2 hour bus ride to Ville de Angostoura. The scenery just gets better, it's unbelievably beautiful.
Our meal tonight was mouth-watering steak, absolutely delicious - and tons of it. We do like this place.

Tues.
Our last lazy day in Bariloche. Hate to say it, but this area leaves our Lake District a poor second.

Wed.
We take a small bus to San Martin de Los Andes along the "Seven Lakes Road". Anything larger would have difficulty keeping to the track. It was well worth the bumps, unbelievably blue lakes and even bluer sky. Arriving in San Martin, the first hostel refuses us entry - it's siesta time! This was fortunate because the next place was even better - and cheaper. Our room was in the eaves, with heavy wooden beams ending in inverted "v" gable end, over the window. Jim hasn't banged his head on it - yet!

Thurs. to Sat.
Walked up the hills to get spectacular views of the town and lake. Took a boat ride to Quila Quita and spent the day soaking up the rays at Lake Lacar.
Another hill to be climbed, this time through an Indian reservation.
Backpackers, don't be put off by the expensive tag of San Martin, because we really found it quite reasonable. So pleased we came here.

Sun.
A 5 hour bus journey, front seats on a semi-cama with panoramic views. We thought we had left the snow-capped mountains behind us, but after a few twists and turns, more appear. Eventually, these do give way to lots of table top mountains. Beautiful horses and fat cattle, up to their knees in lush grass, small wonder the steaks melt in your mouth! Even the Argentinian grass is special, with colours ranging from silver, through green to blues and purples.
Arriving in Neuquen, we find a nice hotel but in this heat, fans and air-con are required, not views of mountains.
There were thousands of people milling around the city centre when we went out for a meal. An open air jazz concert was going on at one end and a rock group belting it out at the other. An acrobatic troup were risking life and limb, hanging from trees in the centre and a Santa train, full of kids weaving in and out of it all!

Mon.
The beach we found on the map turned out to be a thin strip of shingle. The life guard directed us to a private sports club. No-one on the gate - so we made ourselves at home. Beautiful lush lawns, with parasols, sloping down to a deep, fast flowing river, with canoeists paddling pats - idyllic.

Tues.
We had the nerve to go back again today. Wouldn't you? With ice cold cervace at 70 pence a litre! Families start to arrive after siesta, so this was our cue to go back to the hotel and get ready for the overnight bus journey to Mendoza.
At the start of our journey, Argentina runs out of moutains. It's just boring scrub land, as flat as a pancake.

Wed.
With the dawn, comes the snow-capped mountains again. Didn't we plan that well?
A taxi ride into town was depressing -a dirty old place, but the hotel has air-con, so we're happy.The temperature is now reaching the 30's. We are going to explore Mendoza now, and hopefully change our opinion!

Wishing you all "Felice Navidad"! We'll be thinking of you while we are on the beach at Vina del Mar!


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