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March 15th 2006
Published: March 15th 2006
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SantiagoSantiagoSantiago

Big and polluted city but attractive and lively.
Here I am in Mendoza...A 4 days break in Argentina after two weeks in Chile and before returning on the pacific coast of South America for continuing my way North : roads and buses are better on the Chilian side and considering the time I will spend in transportation in the next days it is better to try to optimize!
Mendoza is like a big city and except the fact it is on the Argentinian side (after 2 and half months in South America, I have not enought yet of their Biffe de Chorizo!) it has not much to say about it, not to say I am a bit desappointed. Yeah, there are things to be done around the city but it is remote, not really cheap and don't know, not really original (or it requires time I don't have like for the trek around Aconcaga)...I am stuck here until Thursday (bus companies decided!!!) so I am enjoying the nice weather, terrasses, reading local papers and doing things I don't take time to do in other places. Ok, it is not as bad as it sounds like!!! It is just one of the first places that is slightly below my expectations...and
ValparaisoValparaisoValparaiso

The most attractive city I visited in South America...(Buenos Aires does not count!!!!)
especially because it comes after a great week in Santiago and Valparaiso.

Santiago was originally a mandatory stop on my journey to Mendoza because of bus routes. I also needed to solve issues with my French credit card and the French authorities. So one day and I am gone, considering the mixed reports I received about the city from other travellers! My first contact with the city is its subway at peak hour. It is a good old French "metro" built by Alsthom! I arrived at the hostel, wait with a couple of Germans and entered a cosy place with a roof terrasse and meet friendly poeple, Dutch, Italian, other Germans and a French girl, Sophie, who is living in Chili for 6 years. She showed me the Central Market (built by Effel) where you eat sea food, la Moneda, Cerro Santa Lucia...Ok Santiago is a big and polluted city but it is lively and modern as well! After 3 days there it's time for moving to the cost : direction Valparaiso. This city was on my list because of it's legendary harbor which was hosting the European ships which had passed the Cape Horn, I didn't know much
Valparaiso, city of the artsValparaiso, city of the artsValparaiso, city of the arts

even if it is "muy muy peligrosso" ;-)
about the city and what to expect. In fact, Valparaiso is an old city blocked between Pacific Ocean and hills. In fact most of the city is buit on those hills and all you can see is a forrest of colorful houses that have replaced the original trees (I don't want to be there a day of strong rain!). You reach the upper part of the city through feniculars that are, for most of them, more than 100 years old (Haaaa the famous quality of productos chilenos!!!). This is also a popular city with restaurants like cantines with old men playing accordeon and singing old and nostalgic songs together with the audience...really nice moments!

Next to Valparaiso, you have Viña del Mar reachable by a brand new "metro-train"which is running along the bay. The resort is just a resort and it is just good for having shrimp and cheese empanadas on the pier after a quick jump in the ocean, quick as it is only at 15C!
From Valparaiso, a popular excursion is Isla Negre, a small village on the ocean, where the last house of Pablo Neruda stands...really nice place with every room with a view on the Pacific-even if really touristy-

This weekend was also particular, for me but also for chileans in general because on Saturday, Michelle Bachelet has taken officially her responsabilities as the first ever "Presidenta" of Chile and this in Valparaiso! It is quite amazing to see the hopes the chileans have in her and how most of the media are reflecting this positive expectation!!I really felt as in the heart of an historic day for Chile!

THE TEXT HAS BEEN EATEN BY THIS F·CKING COMPUTER, I HAVE LOST THE END (2 hours of work) AND AS I AM SEATING HERE FOR AMOST 4 HOURS, YOU WILL HAVE TO WAIT!
IT GOES AWAYS FASTER THE SECOND TIME SAYS A LEIDEN PROVERB!!!!! NOW ONLY THE FRENCH PART MISSING


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Valparaiso...Ascensor ConcepciónValparaiso...Ascensor Concepción
Valparaiso...Ascensor Concepción

What would be Valparaiso without its feniculars...this one is from 1882!
Isla NegraIsla Negra
Isla Negra

Nice spot, Pablo!


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