MMM - Mendoza & Malbec & Meat

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D'Fahrt vo Santiago nach Mendoza het oepe 6 Stund duuret (dam Mau mit sehr speditiver Abfertigung a der Graenze) und d'Landschaft isch wunderschoen gsi. Mir hei d'Ande einisch ueberquert und hei sogar i der Wiiti der Aconcagua (fasch 7000 m hoeche Baerg) gseh. Wo mir de in Mendoza ahcho si, isch ae Maa dert gstande und het gfunde aer heigi es guenschtigs Hotel im Zaentrum. Mir si mau mit ihm mitgange, ohni Verpflichtig, und si das Hotel go ahluege. Fuer dae Priis isch es ou nid schlaecht gsi und mir hei de mau fuer zwe Naecht dert gschlafe. Und denn hei mir ues afah schlau mache, wie mer die Wiigebiet in Mendoza am gschiedschte geit go erkunde.

Fuere erschtig Tag hei mir ues de fuer d'Variante Velo entschiede. Mir si mit em Bus nach Maipu gfahre, oepe 20 km vo Mendoza entfernt. Dert hets es paar Orte gha, wo me het choenne fuer 10 sFr. aes Velo fuere ganzi Tag miete und vo Wiiguet zu Wiiguet fahre. Es isch zwar mega heiss gsi (ca. 35 Grad), aber d'Strass isch meischtens im Schatte zwuesche Baeum gsi. Mir si ganz verschiedeni Wiigueter go ahluege. Die einte hei no nach ganz traditioneller Art produziert in ganz chliine Maengine und anderi si scho groesser gsi und hei eher industriell produziert. Nach der Velotour si mer de wieder zum Vermieter zrugg und dert hets de nomau vo sim "Huswii" gaeh - all you can drink!! Mendoza isch ja nid nume bekannt fuere Wii, sondern ou fuer ds guete Aesse und ds feine Fleisch. Drum si mir de nach daem viele Wii und ere churze Siesta am Abe no go es 450g Filet (das mau ds zwoeite) go aesse.

Am naechschte Tag het de mis Geburrigschaenkli ahgfange :-))) http://www.cavaswinelodge.com/

Standesgemaess si mir mit ere Limousine (irgend ae Citroen, het aber wuerklech no guet usgseh) mit toente Schibe abgholt worde. Dae Fahrer het ues de zersch mau no uf nes Wiiguet gfahre, wo wunderschoen isch gsi und me im Hintergrund d'Ande gseh het. Nach daem Usflug si mir de gaege Mittag id Cavas Wine Lodge gange....und denn si mir usem Stuune nuemme usecho. So oepis schoens hei mir gloub beidi no nie gseh gha. Und natuerlech hets zum Empfang wieder es Glas Wii gaeh :-)

Der Namittag hei mir de im und um uese Pool verbracht mit em ne Chaesplaettli und der Flaesche Wii, wo mer ou no ufem Zimmer gha hei. Wos de chli chueler worde isch, si mer no mit de Velo chli duer d'Raebe gfahre und am Abe hets vorem Aesse ae Tangoshow gaeh, wo mir am Schluss no saeuber d'Basisschritte vom Tango hei choenne lehre. Denn hets aes BBQ gaeh...mhhh...und woeu mir es paar Mau gseit hei, dass die Uebernachtig mis Geburrigschaenk isch gsi, han ig vorem regulaere Dessert no ae Chueche mit em ne Cherzli uebercho und no es Gschaenkli vo Cavas Wine Lodge :-)))

Ds Kafi hei mir de bi ues uf der Terrasse trunke bim ne schoene Fuurli. Alles i allem ae perfekte Tag!!! Merci vieu Mau Thomas!!!

Am naechste Tag hei mir de ae Weckruef churz vorem Sunneufgang bstellt gha (ca. 7:15). Denn si mir guet ihpackt, woeu es wird doch scho raecht chaut i der Nacht, uf d'Terrasse ufe und hei der Sunneufgang ahglueget. Das isch aecht spektakulaer gsi, vor allem het me suesch d'Ande nie so klar gseh wie am Morge frueh. Nach em ne super feine Zmorge si mir de wieder vom Chauffeur abgholt worde und si a daem Tag no einisch drue Wineries go bsueche. Catena Zapata, Melipal, und am Schluss no Weinert. Das si drue voellig verschiedeni Wineries gsi. Die erschti ae absolut professionalisierti Marketingmaschine, die zwoeiti ae ganz jungi und die dritti ae sehr Traditionelli. Bi Melipal isch ds Tasting zum Zmittag derzue gsi. Und das isch nid eifach nume aes Aesse gsi, sondern aes Gourmet Menu mit 5 Gaeng!! Am Schluss si mir zwar fasch platzt, aber es isch super schoen gsi und ds Ambiente eifach unbeschrieblech!

Nach der letschte Winery isch es de wieder zrugg nach Mendoza gange i ds gliiche Hotel wie am Ahfang. Isch haut de scho chli gemein, wenn me vo so emene Luxusresort zrugg id Stadt chunnt und me no ds Zimmer gaege d'Strass use berchunnt!! Aber mir heis ueberlaebt und hei de sogar am naechschte Tag choenne ds Zimmer waechsle. Aber a daem Abe si mir nume no noeime oepis alkoholfreis go trinke und ig ha oepis ganz chliises gaesse. Der Thomas het immer no gnue gha vom z'Mittag ;-)

Zum no einisch ae anderi Variante vom Wiiguetbsuech usdsprobiere, si mer i ne Bus ihgschtiege, wo si gseit hei, fahri id Naechi vo Familia Zuccardi. Das het de meh oder weniger gschtumme. Die letschte 8 km hei mir de no Gstoepplet. Dert hei mir super Glueck gha, woeu mer grad eine verwuetscht hei, wo bi dere Winery gschaffet het. Nach ere super interessante Fuehrig und Degu vo ihrem Premium Malbec Zuccardi Q, wo eigentlech no extra gchoschtet haetti, aber si vergaesse hei ds verraechne ;-), hei mir wieder ahfah zrugg loufe. Der Zuefall hets woeue, dass no einisch der gliichi ahghaute het und ues bis zu der naechschte Bushaltestell mitgnoh het.

Zum ues wieder chli ds Staerche nach daem Usflug zu der Familie Zuccard, si mer am Abe no go es chliies Stueck Fleisch aesse. Mir heis ues sogar teilet...es isch nume 800g gsi :-)))

Der letschti Tag in Mendoza hei mir de uf em Wiiguet Salentein verbracht. Der Wine Shop het fuer ues ae VIP Tour organisiert - merci Gaby und Amber!!! Es isch eine vo de schoenschte Taeg im Mendoza gsi. Mir si wieder vom ne Chauffeur abgholt worde und is oepe 100km entfernte Tal gfahre, wo d'Salentein ihres Guet hei. Dert hei mir de zerscht Mau is Restaurant choenne und es super feins Zmittag aesse. Vorem Aesse si mir de no vo der Llorena begruesst worde und si het ues gseit, dass sobald mir fertig si mit aesse, oeper ues duer d'Bodega fuehrt. Das hei mir de gmacht und hei natuerlech scho zum Aesse der super Wii vo Salentein trunke. Denn isch es nach oepe 1.5 Stund uf d'Tour gange. Mir si ues scho chli wichtig vor cho :-) D'Tour isch super gsi und jetz wuesse mir ou, wohaer der Primus chunnt und werum dae so tuer isch. Ungloublech, was die fuer nes Prozedere mache, zum dae Wii ueberzcho! Am Schluss si mir de no im Chaeuer zu uesem private Tasting Ruum cho und hei dert aui ihri Premium Wii choenne degustiere und ues isch ou no einisch aues derzue erklaert worde. Das hei mir natuerlech gnosse und hei ues ou Zit glah. Aber leider isch de ou dae Tag mau verbi gange und mir si wieder zrugg nach Mendoza gfahre worde. Was natuerlech super a dere ganze Sach isch gsi, isch das mir weder ds Aesse no d'Fuehrig no d'Degu hei muesse zahle! Und mir soeue nume Bscheid gaeh, wenn oeper vo uesne Kollege woeui verbi cho :-)

Nach em ne gmuetleche chline Z'nacht bi der Anna im Bistro, wo mer sit langem wieder einisch Pasta gaesse hei, isch es de am naeschte Tag witer gange nach La Rioja.


English speakers (and readers, some of which might be early pensioneers;-) ) this is solely for you (and is written w/the warmth of the excellent Malbec (or some blend thereof) still in my blood).

The bus drive to Mendoza was about 6hours and took us for the first time over the Andes - its amazing if you get to glimpse at Aconcagua - the highest mountain of south America and almost 7000m high.
At the bus station in Mendoza we were greeted by the owner of a hotel in Mendoza who offered us transport to Mendoza and a room at his hotel for ARG peso 120.-, we looked at the place and decided this would suit us well and checked in. After that strolled through town in the afternoon heat (did I ever mention blue sky and sun from dawn till dust?) and got ourselves informed at the tourist office of how one could discover the wineregions around Mendoza - looked to us as if they were really well prepared for tourists - nothing like in Santiago - and they had all the information about the approx. 1200 wineries in the region ready and the different ways how to get there.
After all this 'work' it was really time for some good wine - which we found at 'Winery el 23'.

Next day we took a bus out to Hugo's bike rental in Maipu Valley - got some bikes and rode along the winerute for some 10k' and started the winetour from this end. While pedalling back from there to Hugo's we visited 3 bodegas (wineries) which offered for a small amount a tour of their winery and a tasting as well. As always - the sun was the only obstacle in the blue sky and just sending all its heat our way... Back at Hugo's we were greeted w/a bottle of H's houswine from which he poured a glass for each and left us the bottle on the table for as many refills as we cared for... Later on we took a bus back to town and after a short siesta headed out for a good cut of meat - 450 gram of 'befe de lomo' (filet) some salad on the side and a bottle of wine (this time only a 375ml) - again slept perfectly afterwards.

Next day was THE day for Caro - her birthday present was to choose any hotel along the way for a 1 night's stay - somehow she found Cavas Wine Lodge!
Its a sunny (what else?) Sunday morning - a limosine arrives around 9'ish and the chauffeur brings us to Achavas Ferrer (spelling might be incorrect) which sits on a beautiful property, overlooking vineyards and showing the Andes at the horizon. Had a very nice tasting and noted that these wines are sold at Martel SA. in Switzerland.
After the tasting back into the limo and to Cavas (http://www.cavaswinelodge.com). As soon as we got out of the car and into the lobby we were offered a glass of white wine and had a seat outside on the veranda overlooking more vinyards and having the mountains in the very back. Soon after we got to our room, a spacious 90 m2 (check the movie) pool outside and a roof terrace w/its own fireplace.
Spent the afternoon over a cheese platter, some wine that was curtousy of the house and leisuring in and around the pool and later took a quick bike tour through the vineyards.
On time for dinner the hotel staff brought back our ironed shirt and pants such to change the picture of the bagpack-traveller to make us fit into the nightly glamurous athmosphere.

At the hotel's amphitheater we were greeted w/yet another glass of wine and then enjoyed a beautiful tango-show that started after sundown and ended as the stars were brightly blinking from the sky.
Dinner was an 'asado' (BBQ of a variety of meats) & wine. First platter was a chorrito sausage, bloodsausage and something they call sweatbread (tasted like chicken...); second platter a fine cut of befe de lomo.
In between second platter and dessert Caro got a birthday cake (as we had mentioned this being her present) and a small present from the staff. Dessert (after the cake) was delicious as well and we then decided to order a glass of late harvest wine and have that together with a cortado (expresso w/milk) on our privat lodge's rooftop and to light the fire there. What a way to end a day.
Next morning we got up very early in order to catch sunrise and to shoot some amazing pictures of the Andes - ordered a cortado to the rooftop. Breakfast later on was on the hotels terrace - huge selection of fresh products and french toast for Thomas!.
After breakfast checked out and Thomas signed the check... pick up by limo and on to Bodega Catena Zapata with a wonderful building and supposedly excellent wine. On we went for lunch to Bodega Melipal and were we got served a 4 course lunch accompanied each with a new glass of wine.
After lunch into the limo again and up to Bodega Winert - they age their wine in huge barrels (not like the other bodegas in barrels of 'only' 220lt but in barrels of several hundret hectolitre) and the wine is kept there for 4-5 and more years before bottleing.
Soon thereafter the limo brought us back to town. Due to the fact that we had had all this food (and some copas of wine) this night's dinner looked like the following: 1 coke for Thomas, 1 limonsoda and a slice of pizza for Caro - yes, we really couldn't take anymore.

Next morning our stomac had processed all the food from the day before and we were ready for a new winery. This time we wanted to take the local bus out to the winery of the Family of Zuccardi. At the tourist information we got the right direction and were soon thereafter riding in the bus out of town and towards Zuccardi. Got off the bus as close to the winery as possible and knew we still had to hike for 8k's before actually getting there - however we got lucky as we were trying to hitchhike as we got picked up by one of the workers of Zuccardi - this one just coming back from lunch and on the way to work.
The tour at Zuccardi was superb and we got to know a lot of new stuff about winemaking and especially about Zuccardi. After the tour we enjoyied the winetasting and even got to try the famous 'Malbec Q' from Zuccardi (can be bought at Haecky SA in Switzerland - where you might also want to try the 'Zeta', the top wine, a blend of Malbec and ...). After the tasting back to town - hitchhiking to the next bus station and from there with the normal bus.

By the way did you note that we had completely left out lunch?
In order to catch up we decided to have meat and wine for dinner (what else did you expect). Had ourselves a 'Baby Bif' and a bottle of 'Mora Negra'. Turns out the Baby Bef isn't really a baby... got 800gr. of superb meet, cooked 'jugosa' (medium rare) and had to cool the red wine first in a jar of ice as the temprature of the wine was way too warm. Slurp...!! Left out dessert and just had a cafe cortado.

Next day was THE day for our trip to Salentein. Thanks to Gaby and Amber from the Wineshop in Zurich, we had ourselves a VIP treatment (thank you so much gals, it was superb!) and were invited as guests to Salentein.
Got picked up by a chauffeur at noon and driven to the estate of Salentein which lies in a valley about 100k's outside of Mendoza. Got there in time for lunch and as soon as we had sat down were greeted by Llorena (Salentein VIP-Manager!!). Lunch was excellent and the wine to go with that just superb. As told by Llorena, we went to the reception area after lunch and met Fernando who provided us with a tour just for the two of us around the estate and especially the celler. We learned how Salentein produces their 'Premium' - for which they imported special designed oak-barrels holding several 1000 litres to start this special winemaking. All wine is then stored in the special designed celler (4-wings like a church) and something like an arena in the middle - all about 20m below ground to ensure that the temprature can be kept cool to guarantee a proper ageing of the wines. After this tour we were guided in a separate tasting room holding a marble table with Salentein's superb wines ready for tasting. Spent more than an hour tasting the different wines, talking about the different colours, tastes, aromas and notes - what a fantastic tour! After the tasting we had a quick look around their museum too and soon thereafter were driven back to Mendoza by our driver.

After this incredible day we decided to let our stomacs have a break from all the meat and had pasta instead for dinner - went to Anna's Bistro and enjoyed our last night in Mendoza before heading on the next day for 'La Rioja' a town about 700k to the north of M.

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