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Published: January 24th 2006
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Nido de condores 5400 meter
After climbing a couple times this strenuous climb (as you can see hahahah)
I finaly slept here on my 9th day.
to get water for cooking I had to melt snow. The 5th of january I landed in Santiago the Chili. I took a direct bus to Mendoza, where I runned around to find all the climbing gear that I needed to get up Aconcagua.
....A trip with a company was to expensive, so after I talked with some guides and other mountaineers, I decided that I could go there without a guide as well.
In my hostel in Mendoza I met up with two Hungarians (Robert and Yury). Robert had been on the mountain before and so we started a 3 mens expedition. The 7th we took the bus to the starting point at Puenta del Inca where we stayed for the night at 2700 meters.
There we had to arrange mules service to the base camp for all our food (for approx. 16 days)
Each of us send 20 kilos with the mules, so there were just ourselves and our backpacks (still 25-30 kilos) left to take up the mountain. We made it the second day to Confluencia at 3300 meters. we stayed there 2 days to aclimatise and to prepare for the long hike to Base Camp (plaza de Mulas.) On that day Yury got again altitude sickness so
3 men expedition
Two other guys Robert and Yury from Hungary at our start of the climb to Aconcagua they had to stay somewhere in between for 2 days.
Later I met up with them in Base Camp, but since the weather was great I decided to move up slowely anyways. The 17th I slept in Camp Berlin at the altitude of 5900 meters!!! not realy good sleeping there but besides the sleeping problems the altitude didn´t affect me that much.
The 18th I woke up at 6, it was a beautiful day, clear blue sky no wind, but extremely cold! At 7'o clock I set pace to climb slowely up and the first 2 hours went great. After that It became so hard to breath and thus to walk up. At 11.30 I came to the canaleta, a steep part before the summit. 3 steps a time and then recover...I never done anything this hard. Its the body that don´t want to go up but the mind that takes over control anyways...
Around 13.30 I reached the summit at 6962 meters!!!!, the great feeling came afterwards, at the moment, I was just exhausted...wanted to eat drink and sleep...not to great idea at such conditions.
By the time I was up there the weather had changed to clouds, and
Sitting in front of the south side
The 3rd day we made a hike to plaza the francia where we got a great view of the south face...just impressive snow...and the way back was cold....
The next day back to base camp and from there a long hike back to Puenta del Inca
Now I finaly had a good night sleep in Mendoza and it´s time to celebrate now!!!
Hasta luego
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Alwin
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