Colors You Can't Believe

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I'm going to let the Quebrada de Humahuaca speak for itself, through photos...It's easier to understand the incredible colors, the depth of the beauty this place projects.

This was my experience along the Quebrada:
Starting on my first day in San Salvador de Jujuy, the capital of Jujuy province in northwestern Argentina, I took a day trip to Purmamarca, a charming little place, just for a couple of hours to get my introduction to the area. I had passed through the night before, as part of my hellish bus day, but it had been too dark then to see what was about to amaze me...The route along the Quebrada would prove to be as interesting as the towns that dot its path.

The following day, I left San Salvador on an early morning bus for Humahuaca, a smaller city (of 400,000 people) but the namesake of the region. I had about an hour to wander, have some cafe con leche, and book a hotel room for the following night. The town was alive and crowded, mostly with Argentine university students on their summer holidays. My next bus trip would take me 66 kilometers to Iruya. It's not far, but it takes 3 hours!! The road goes downhill, uphill (reaching 4000 meters), then back downhill to this little town nestled into the gorge. I did some short walks, rewarding for their gorgeous views, then spent the night in there in a lovely hosteria. I woke up early to do a 7-km walk to an even tinier town, San Isidro, fording the river and clambering over rocks along the way. In the afternoon, I ended up back in Humahuaca to enjoy its warm atmosphere and stunning surroundings. I slept well again and set off in the morning for Tilcara, where the pre-Incan ruins are the main attraction and where a tourism hub has grown because of the town's laid-back but accommodating style. After a delicious lunch of regional goodies and a bit of museum and handicrafts browsing, I headed back to San Salvador.

I need to come back here, with more time and my own car....

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Photos

Purmamarca
This is Purmamarca, a little town along the colorful Quebrada de Humahuaca. Nice homes, nice cars, nice views!

Hippie Heaven
Purmamarca's main square is surrounded on all sides with handicrafts, and in the middle you'll find a perpetual drum circle/guitar jam/peace and love dance gathering.

Their Backyard
The colors are astounding...And depending on the time of day, the sun and clouds, it's a changing technicolor display!!

Candy?
Behind me is the Cerro de los Siete Colores, but I think I can count more than 7. How many can you find?

This Is Why I Need to Come Back with a Car
To stop and look at things like this.

Entrance to Iruya
The bus actually dropped us off about a half kilometer away, so we had to cross the trickle of a river and climb a steep ramp to the city's adorable church, which you see here. The church square is an unofficial hang-out spot for everyone, tourists and locals.

Iruya, More Incredible Colors
...and some rain clouds coming to get me!

In the Morning Light
Starting off on my 7-K hike, I instantly found a travel companion. A mutt with a lame front leg followed me from the very beginning, almost to the end, until he found a more exciting group. I felt hurt, so hurt, but at least it eased the guilt I had felt every time I de-shoed and de-socked to wade across the river and my poor, abandoned canine friend barked, cried, and whined on the other side. He always found a way to hurry across anyway, as soon as I started walking away.

Humahuaca
Looking down the wide steps from an ugly monument onto a beautiful town. And, oh! The backdrop!!!

Humahuaca's Center
The white church and cabildo, on the main plaza and surrounded by green. And, of course, more beautiful views beyond.

Tilcara
The Pucara, a safe hilltop pre-Incan settlement which has been unsurfaced and reconstructed quite a bit.

A House in the Pucara
I couldn't fit through the doors because I was carrying my bulky backpack and plus, people were smaller back then! Notice the cardon cacti everywhere. They are all over the region and now are protected because of their fragile life cycle. This cactus grows about one or two centimeters per year and only begins to flower after 35 years! Still, people and businesses have tables, chairs, necklaces, you name it, made from their wood and spines - supposedly obtained after a cactus falls to the ground.

High Altitude Botanical Garden
This cactus is called vicunita, because it has the appearance of a vicuna (one of the llama-type animals). Do you see the resemblance?

Comments

[grandma]

It is so nice finally to look at more cheerful places. They don't look too dangerous, but anyway,come home soon. a Lots of love

[Abbey]

que hermoso!! Estoy feliz que estas pasando un buen tiempo. un beso grande

[Grifter]

Don't you mean "colours"!
Lookin good girl. You back in BA now? Treat yourself to something nice in BA, it sounds like you've been roughin it too much. Kisses Jo