Christmas Eve
December 24th 2010 It's Christmas Eve (although not for the Orthodox locals who won't celebrate for another two weeks).
I spent this morning walking around seventeenth century castles, remnants of anther age, their round turrets and pointed battlements looking like they should belong in Morocco or Spain not sub-Saharan Africa.
For lunch, I had a sour brown pancake topped with various spicy stews, washed down
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