The Death Seat
July 28th 2006 It was 10pm by the time the Ilala docked in Chilumba, the final stop. There were 14 of us looking for accommodation in a tiny village, which was clearly not quite ready for tourists. The Dutch family were the hardest to accommodate as there were so many of them, so they headed off in one direction while the rest of us piled into a tiny guesthouse type place. To be fair although it was incredibly b
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