Pilgrim's progress.
September 28th 2008 I remember arriving in Santiago de Compostela, the great Spanish pilgrimage city, on a cool, misty, Galician morning. It was that blue pre-dawn hour when anyone with a bit of common sense is curled up beside a pretty Spanish girl, not tramping around with an oversized backpack, looking for their hostel. I had arrived by train, from Madrid - hardly the arduous, soul-sapping slog across 800 m
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