Oct. 11th: enroute to Kingdom of Tonga


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Oceans and Seas
October 11th 2011
Published: October 21st 2011
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18 52.32 S
171 06.47 W

Speed: 8.6 knots
Sailing Mainsail & Genoa
Wind: 18 knots ESE 112
Seas: 2-4 meters

Crew: Brett in galley, Peter helming, Colby & Cyrus on deck, Mac watching a movie, Brooke writing

Comments: The alarm shocked us awake at 5:30am. With a tea in hand, we shuffle into the dinghy and to shore for the 'Early Market". Why? Why so early? Well, it begins at 4:30am and ends at 8am on Tuesdays... and this is the only time we will have the chance to taste Niue's signature 'stew'. We walk with the Commodore to a small market set up with about a dozen vendors selling fruits, veggies, coconut crabs tied in coconut ropes, a few handicrafts like their famous palm weavings and coconut carvings, and yes.. the Stew. For those of you who really know me. You know I have an issue with texture. I do not like jello or even lychee's because they all have that texture of eyeballs. Add the lychee's that they stuff coconut into... and I have a serious problem. It is like biting into an eyeball with a piece of cartilage in it. (yes, that is how my mind works) So when the lovely woman with the bright red hibiscus behind her ear ladled out Cyrus a bowl of this stew, I gasped. It looked like... well, something that happens in a Kleenex when one has a very bad cold. We found out this is a coconut stew made with tapioca they grow on the island. It honestly looks absolutely horrible. (to be kind). But of course I must try and Cyrus is loving it. And yes, I have to admit it. If you can get past the slimy dripping texture with white chunks in it, the lovely coconut flavor is divine. Everyone was staring and proudly smiling when we all mmmmmm'd at their Niuean creation. Check that one off the list. I then was lectured by an elderly man that I have not really been to Niue if I haven't eaten one of their coconut crabs. Now I do love crab. Steamed.. dipped in butter. Maybe I just like the feasting aspect of it. Anytime you can gather with family and friends with mallets and bibs.. I'm in. But to eat one of these magnificent coconut crabs that live to be around 80 years old and have some serious issues environmentally speaking.. I just can't. But I did get a good recipe if anyone plans on eating one of these as he explained the best bits and how to eat it. I then explained to the beautifully wrinkled man that I might get one as a mascot to have as a pet on the boat. He just slightly smiled at me and shook his head in dismay. Conversation over.

The market was an incredible learning experience as everyone wanted to explain the new fruits we have never tasted, and the foods they cook. They explained how they weave the most intricate hats, fans, baskets and more using the sun and the rain. So with our bag filled with what we call 'jungle bananas' a large leathery looking pale yellow and brown banana that tastes like apples and bananas in the texture of a plantain, their banana bread, a couple small weavings and a stomach full of Niuean stew, we depart reluctantly.

We are now sailing to the Vavau Group in Tonga on our way to New Zealand. The seas are a bit rolly and the wind is right 'up our chuff' as before, but we are all happy and well and still buzzing from our Niuean experience.

All aboard send a big hello!

Brooke


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