New Year.

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Happy new year everyone!

I hope everyone had a fantastic new year- still waiting to hear all the gossip about it from some of you so email away!

We flew out to the volcanic island of Tanna just before new years and stayed in Lenakel Hospital. Lenakel Hospital is a step up from Northern District in the sense that it has a proper doctor. Actually it has a proper Canadian doctor, a proper Ni-Van SHO and they were fortunate enough to have another doctor when we were there because this doctor was taking over from the Canadian doctor. The place however was a step down in the sense that whilst Luganville as a town had only one main road and lots of little Chinese shops, Lenakel has a dirt track and two shops. And a market stall that never seemed to be open. But this island was unreal!

As with everything in Vanuatu, despite calling a fortnight in advance and being assured all was well and they were expecting us, nobody was. We'd been assured that the hospital truck would pick us up from the airport so when we landed (in the tiniest tin bucket of an aeroplane that was so small that the seats folded up so you could get past, and you could see right into the cockpit where the pilot shouted "Seat belts on everyone, emergency exit the way you came in"), we stood outside the airport and waited. And waited. And then suddenly this truck with "malaria control" written on the side pulls up right into the airport entrance and about 20 people pile out, grab bags and run in to the departure gate. It turns out that the Minister of Health just "borrowed" the hospital truck to take himself and his family to the airport. He didn't stop to think how the truck would get back to the hospital though!

Anyway someone from the Ministry of Education drove the truck (and us) to the hospital where, unsurprisingly, nobody was expecting us. And in true Vanuatu tradition, they all made us feel extremely welcome.

The Canadian doctor, Tracy, was there with her entire family (kids ranging from 4 to 24 and her geologist husband) and the kids were hacing the time of their lives. Tracy's hubby was also in heaven given that the world's most accessible volcano happens to take pride of place on the island, but more about that later. Tracy's niece, her boyfriend and a friend were also visiting, and along with the incoming Canadian doctor, the house was pretty full, so we were sent to "Ol Fren Reshau" where the students and the Dr Basil, the Ni-Van doctor live. The guy was an absolute legend. Even if he was the biggest BeeGee's fan on the planet. He decided that now that he had guests, he should show us around and get us involved in island life so he "borrowed" the hospital truck, we bought some fuel and just went off around the island (after the customary morning ward round of course).

The island is completely different to Santo. For a start its even greener, if you can believe that, and secondly its much more mountainous. And has crapper roads. Well not roads- more like dirt tracks. The roads are so bad that the charity that sends the Canadian docs over will buy a new truck every 3 years because they are so worried they will break down otherwise, and as a result the doc's truck is the best one on the island. The people are different too. They are just as friendly but the women's lib movement definitely didn't make it there. The order of play is men, pigs, women, children and then dogs. Women aren't even allowed to look near a kava gathering at night or will be fined a good kava root. In the old days she could be stoned to death. Dr Basil warned us to duck and hide when driving in the back of the truck in the evenings, or they may stone us which was a lovely thought! But they still invited us to their football tournament (1st prize was a cow, with runners up getting bags of rice) and to spend new years day with them at one of their outdoor parties!

Between the two trucks we got to see the entire island. We spent new years eve with Tracy and her family + guests, Dr Basil, and another family who were Aussies working for UNICEF at Port Resolution, which is a beautiful spot named after Capt Cook's ship. Also went to Shark Bay and so loads of reef sharks, albeit from a safe distance. The evening was even better though. We all went up to Mount Yasur, a grade 2 volcano and peered down. Natural fireworks for new years eve was pretty special and I don't think we'll ever see another new year's eve like that. The pictures don't do it justice- we can't evewn describe the noise, the smell, the fumes and just being in such awe of the place. Topped off with champagne and a party back at the doc's house to welcome in the new year.

So much more to say about Tanna but don't want to bore you all any more.

Will just end it with a quick message to say hope you all had a great new years eve and this coming year is even better for everyone.

Love Nina and Dan xxx

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