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Published: February 13th 2013
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Friday 11
th - We had a slow start to the day today after all the driving of the last few days. We were also supposed to be white water Rafting in the afternoon, booked yesterday on the drive in, but due to all the rain New Zealand's experienced recently, this has been cancelled as too dangerous. When you looked at any of the raging rivers this was hardly surprizing, so we had to have a quick change of plan.
I had read how one of the best things to do in Queenstown in the summer other than thrill seeking rides is a trip up to ‘The Remarkables’! These are ski fields, and a 13km gravel road takes you up to the ski lodge at 1,600m, which is apparently about the highest public-access road you can get to in New Zealand. It isn’t publicised in the normal guide books and as the weather was lovely, we decided to give it a go. It turned out to be a truly REMARKABLE experience.
It wasn’t obvious from the entrance on the public highway that this was even open (the sign said Ski Slopes -‘Closed”, but we did see a cars coming out,
so ventured on. It was supposed to be a 2WD track but at several points this was questionable as our sturdy steed bumped and clattered on up. 13kms up a very rough, steep, narrow mountainous dirt track suddenly seemed a very long way and at that point were thankful to have opted for the ‘No Worries’ insurance option with ‘nil’ excess! As we climbed higher, and higher, the views were incredible and finally we reached the ski lodge and car parking area where there were a few other cars.
The walk we had intended to do was supposed to be very easy. Unfortunately, the dozers were in, preparing the slopes for the season ahead, so the track had been re-routed. This turned out to be pretty steep and although we made it to a view over Lake Alta, Julian decided he’d had enough. But although the view over the Lake was good, I had read the view at the summit was supposed to be amazing. Having Josh there was great as he got me doing far more than I would have on my own. We scrabbled up a very steep and difficult scree slope and then across patches of
snow. We made it up to the 2,000m Shadow Basin lookout and it was worth every bit of pain. WOW and more WOW. We were so high and had a full panoramic view, looking way down on Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu complete with a horizon of shimmering snow capped mountains.
Julian had a cuppa waiting when we finally got back to the car park before we headed back. On the way down we stopped at the two roadside lookouts and watched the planes below us flying in to Queenstown airport and Josh will remember this as the place he lost his camera! Have we an accident prone son or what?
There also seemed to be a strange local habit for displaying dead Possoms on posts.
Strangely, when we hit normal road, we realised the van had developed a very loud creaking that wasn’t there before. Ooops!
Stopped by at the local supermarket for dinner and found huge green lipped mussels at a ridiculously cheap price. Moules Mariniere was soon on the agenda and they were scrummy. Spent a second night at our lakeside Dez Rez. G&T followed by good wine and beer, followed by more Downton
Abbey.
Saturday 12
th – Another beautiful day. Josh had booked himself a Canyon Swing today at 10.15, but we raced back to The Remarkables first in an attempt to find his camera. We knew exactly where he had had it last (thankfully at a lower viewpoint) but it was gone.
The creaking was still there and having called the company to ask there advice they said they thought it was dust in the suspension and would go.
The meeting point for the Canyon Swing was in Queenstown, which turned out to be really busy due to Rugby 7’s going on.
We went along to watch and saw our son throw himself off into the canyon not once, but three times. One other person did 2, while most changed their mind at doing more jumps after the first. He did a ‘Backflip’, a ‘Forward Leap’ and a ‘Gimp Boy Goes To Hollywood’ jump. The latter was where he was suspended upside down over the canyon before they let him go. Mad fool. Julian & I both happy to just watch.
After that, we had coffee and a quick look around town, bought a pack of cards
and left for Milford Sound. There is only one access road here which runs 121kms from Te Anau and is renowned for being a spectacular journey in its own right.
Stopped at Fairlight to make lunch on the way just as a lovely old steam train, the ‘Kingston Flyer’ pulled in. Through Te Anau, a few photos at the Mirror Lakes (that weren’t that ‘mirror’ like as there was a slight breeze causing ripples) until we reached the Gunns Hollyford Camp Ground and museum, our next chosen stopping point. A brilliantly quirky little place, 8kms off the main highway and with the luxury of showers and all for $10NZ per night each.
Our first real encounter with sandflies though, so armed ourselves with our DEET lotion and spray. Luckily there was a fantastic communal kitchen and lounge area complete with cosy log fire. Although a beautiful summers day, the evenings were a bit chilly so we enjoyed a Spanish omelette cooked indoors for a change, compliments of chef Josh, washed down by a glass or two of wonderful Marlborough ‘Five Flax’ Sauv B. Lost miserably at chess to Josh, but then slaughtered him and Julian at gin rummy
(the one and only time I did) and marked the end of another fabulous day of our NZ adventure.
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