2009 Expedition: Mount Brewster

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December 12, 2009

With the rain continuing to fall, we were informed that the shuttle transport to the track we wanted to do would not be going today due to the bus’s inability to cross the flooded streams over the road. So we changed plans yet again and hitchhiked our way to Wanaka, a town about three hours drive away, to see if the tracks in that area would be more accessible and the weather would be any better. It turned out to be a somewhat interesting, but mostly useless day.
The guy that picked us up outside Glenorchy, was a cameraman for a movie being filmed near there. He also told us that Tyra Banks was in that town as well since they are filming America’s Next Top Model there. It’s strange that in such a remote place we were within a quarter mile of several major film crews.
Waiting for our second ride took well over an hour. Finally a car did stop, and when we got near the door, the car full of kids just sped off laughing. While I’m sure they thought we were mad, I actually had the best laugh I’ve had in a long while from this, mainly because I imagined a car full of my own friends doing this exact thing and how much idiotic joy we would get from it. (Of course this would have only happened when we were all much younger and immature….) Plus Eric and I weren’t in any real hurry today and I knew a car would stop for real eventually. Actually, I get good laughs every time we get a jeer or interesting gesture from passing motorists. It’s good to know that some people find entertainment in things as simple as two guys standing on the side of the road hoping for a ride.
Eventually we got to Wanaka, and the skies were sunny. We’ll see what we can get started on tomorrow.

December 13, 2009

My friend, Mary Lynn, who lives in Denver but spends several months each year here in Wanaka with her husband Tom, took Eric and me out for breakfast today. After that, we all took a drive up into the Crown Range to see some of that beautiful area, and then stopped by her house for coffee and biscuits before we headed out of town. It was great to see a familiar face in a place so far from home.
During our hitchhiking to Mount Brewster, about an hour and a half drive from Wanaka, we got three rides before being dropped off at the trailhead next to the highway. It was late when we finally got going, just before 5pm, and with the rain falling (as seems to be the case frequently) the estimated four hours hiking time to the hut had me slightly worried. A late dinner would have to be the motivation to move fast.
Between the highway and the start of the track lies the Haast River, which cuts steeply through this rugged and lush mountainous area. Despite the fact that it was raining, the water was only knee-high, so neither of us got too wet. Across the river, the track climbed steeply upward for about 3000 feet until it reached through the tree line into alpine tussock. The forest provided little shelter from the rain, so we were pretty soaked for most of the hike.
Once we got above tree line, the views were incredible. The river laid far below us, cutting a deep line through the tree filled valley, and the barren mountains were up and ahead of us… with a fresh dusting of snow! So up we went, out of the rain and into the wind and snow. Still wearing my shorts and t-shirt, I was warm enough from the pace to not feel the cold. I began to remember what the second driver, Bruno, an experienced climber from the area had told us. “It says three to four hours to the hut, but if you’re really fast you can do it in two and a half hours.” Well, after one and a half hours from the trailhead, the hut came into view only about five minutes away. Dinner had indeed motivated us to climb quickly.
Inside the Brewster hut, we cooked dinner and watched the snow continue to fall. We have the hut to ourselves, which is nice, but there is no wood stove here so I have a feeling it will be a very cold night.

December 14, 2009

The intention today was to climb up Mount Armstrong and then explore the Brewster Glacier. But the clouds were still hanging on the mountain, so there was no use in wasting energy to climb for no views. So instead, we stayed in the hut and watched the snow fall, melt a bit, fall some more, melt again, and so on. It was fairly cold last night, and this morning when I woke up I initially thought one of my toes was asleep. Taking a closer look though, it seemed to be very white and cold. After soaking it in some hot water I heated up on our camping stove, feeling returned and fears of frostbite were alleviated.
Late this afternoon ten people showed up, which surprised us very much. Our “private” hut was turned into a loud and busy place. Five of the people are a group learning mountaineering techniques with an instructor, so they are generally sticking to themselves. I find that guided groups have little or no interest in interacting with people who hike to the same places on their own without paying the steep prices for a guide.

December 15, 2009

With a morning sky free of clouds, we were finally able to see the full breathtaking beauty of the area that surrounds us outside the hut. We got an early start and cruised up the mountainside beyond the Brewster Hut. The snow that had fallen over the previous two days was crisp underfoot and made for easy steps compared to what walking through the tussock under it would have been like. We climbed about 1000 feet until the hut was just a spec below us, and the Brewster Glacier was fully visible near the top of the mountain. The wind calmed, the sun was shining bright, and I was warm from wearing most of the clothing I have with me. I felt happy in another one of those “perfect” moments you sometimes experience when traveling.
The views across the immense valley added to the beauty of the scene. The tops were all covered in snow, the portion below that to the tree line was brown from the tussock, and below that down to the valley floor was a beautiful shade of green from the forest of beech trees. From this height, you could also see over the ranges and clear out to the ocean. It was just an incredible place to be. Unfortunately, even the best moments can’t last forever, so eventually we had to come back down.
On the way down, the guided group was coming up and they thanked us for making foot holes that they were following upwards. Imagine that, a bunch of mountaineers with ice axes and crampons following in the footsteps up a snowy mountain left by two trampers with just hiking boots and no snow or ice equipment at all.
Coming back down, we dropped below the snowline, then below the tree line, then all the way through the forest, across the river, and back to the road. After an hour, a guy picked us up and took us right to our hostel in Wanaka.
We spent the evening eating our own large pasta dinner, then eating a free dinner and dessert provided by the hostel owner, and followed it all up soaking in a hot tub with several other travelers staying here. Conversation topics centered on hitchhiking experiences and it was good to hear stories that other travelers have collected. On this topic, Eric and I have now had over 100 hitchhiking rides in our two trips to New Zealand. That’s a lot of interesting people and great stories.

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